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Discussion Starter #1
I've done a lot of reading on the B-pillar cracks, so I don't have any questions, just wanting some opinions. I've been wanting a bronco for while now and finally found a completely rust free '90 Bronco Eddie Bauer where I live, but as most Broncos, it has some cracks in the drip rails and the B-pillar roof joint. I know it can be fixed and everything but if I buy this bronco it is something that I plan on keeping for life (won't be used for off roading, MIGHT see a few winter days, etc...) and I've read about the problems the b-pillars cause. If you fix the b-pillars, then the A-pillars start to go and after a while the bedsides start to move away from the body and other stuff....I don't want to have these problems.


Would you let B-pillar/drip rail cracks turn you away from a Bronco? And I do realize I'm asking this on a bronco forum.
 

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IMO seams to me since you are in a Bronco forum site you will most likely find that most people here love their FSBs and would say don't let the known issues keep you from getting one. I also have a 90 and mine is in the rust belt. I have a and b pillar rust to deal with along with floor boards and rear tub issue. I plan on starting my rust attack in the comeing spring as I plow with mine and don't want to be without her.

If you want a Bronco then you will also need to be ready to work on her. Unless of coarse you want to pay a mechanic and body shop to do all your work for you. So go ahead, indulge in your desire and drop the hammer on it. If you don't PM me the info and I would definitely consider buying her as a rust free bronco is hard to come by in my parts... :thumbup
 

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No. Why put this in the newbie tech zone if you already know the fix? You kind of lost me on some of the other stuff but all it takes is a little TLC to keep them in good shape just like any other vehicle on the market. If you did find a miricale car or truck without any problems feel free to post it up.
 

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My BKO was a farm implement when I got her. Pretty well beat to hell. No rust good body but some really good sized cracks in the rain gutters. I followed the repair write ups on here, fixed the cracks and then replaced all of the body bushings which is known to be the primary cause of the cracks. Haven't had any signs of the cracks returning. So NO I wouldnt let that deter the purchase of a rust free BKO especially since you're in the salt belt.

Glayd

Also, dude, these things are the Chuck Norris of SUV's. It aint gonna get any better than a Bronco.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No. Why put this in the newbie tech zone if you already know the fix? You kind of lost me on some of the other stuff but all it takes is a little TLC to keep them in good shape just like any other vehicle on the market. If you did find a miricale car or truck without any problems feel free to post it up.
Because I have 11 posts and it won't let me post in the regular '80-'96 forum. It's not mechanical or usual maintenance stuff that bothers me (I'm expecting to do plenty of that), I absolutely hate rust. If it comes down to it, I have a friend who's uncle is an old-school body guy and can fix anything. I'd probably have him do welding (I'm actually a pretty good welder with MIG and stick but I don't want to fawk anything up).

My BKO was a farm implement when I got her. Pretty well beat to hell. No rust good body but some really good sized cracks in the rain gutters. I followed the repair write ups on here, fixed the cracks and then replaced all of the body bushings which is known to be the primary cause of the cracks. Haven't had any signs of the cracks returning. So NO I wouldnt let that deter the purchase of a rust free BKO especially since you're in the salt belt.

Glayd

Also, dude, these things are the Chuck Norris of SUV's. It aint gonna get any better than a Bronco.

Alright, thanks for the reassurance. I didn't mean to annoy anyone with this question since I know all of you have dealt with the cracks, just wanted some final opinions.


Anyway, the Bronco is a '90 EB, 5.8L 351, E4OD, 186k miles, No rust at all (except from surface rust on frame, can be taken off with wire wheel), 32" Tires, no leaks, 90% highway miles (from Los Angeles to Arizona before coming up here 2 years ago).
 

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yo Nick,

Since your uncle can do the welding, I'd go for it.
Also check for bondo in other rust prone spots; any paint bubbles usually = rust below and possible holes
1/4 panel wheel well lips up to the the camper top,
Tail gate bottom edge
B pillar bottom
oil pan leak due to rusted pan

GL!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yo Nick,

Since your uncle can do the welding, I'd go for it.
Also check for bondo in other rust prone spots; any paint bubbles usually = rust below and possible holes
1/4 panel wheel well lips up to the the camper top,
Tail gate bottom edge
B pillar bottom
oil pan leak due to rusted pan

GL!
Already checked for all that. No evidence of bondo, I would doubt that it has any, came from SoCal
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I followed the repair write ups on here, fixed the cracks and then replaced all of the body bushings which is known to be the primary cause of the cracks.

You want to use polyurethane replacements for the body bushings, correct?
 

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Besides, everybody Knows Chuck drove a Ram.
LOL! Actually in one of his old movies he drove a Bronco with a supercharger on it. Really no sheet. I'll try to find it. I think it was one of his McQuade movies.
 

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Yeah, I remember that one. He used it to blow himself out of a burial pit the drug lords put him in or something like that. But, I think, Walker always drove a Dodge.
 

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Walker originally had a Chebby pickup, first, maybe second season then went to Dodge when the Chebby got blown up. Good riddance.:rofl:
 
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