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Discussion Starter #1
First off I will tell you from the beginning to now.

I got a rebuilt 460 that was in a 79 F150 4x4 with low miles on it that the mechanic owned.

I had to change the oil pan to rear sump since it had a front sump so I could put it in my 1979 F150 4x4.

Thus I had to get a new oil pump and longer pick up tube.


I ran into a problem that the oil screen was hitting the bottom of my oil pan so I bent up the pick up tube thinking it would be ok.


So I started driving to work and it seemed ok when I first drove it and then I guess I got a little low of oil and I lost OIL PSI. I decided to park it and take off the oil pan and see what went on.

Nothing was knocking.

So I got home and took off the oil pan and there was some metal in it.
Took off one of the main bearings and it was copper colored. Took off one of the rod bearings and it was silver still but scratched up but had tiny tiny tiny patches of copper coming through but not much.


Now I am stuck on whether to tear the whole engine apart and vat it (SOMETHING I DON'T WANT TO DO BECAUSE THAT COST MORE MONEY)

Or

Just clean out the inside of the engine the best I can with either CARB CLEANER or like the mechanic told me to change the oil and drive 20 miles and drop the oil pan again and put new oil in it and drive farther and do it all again until there is no more metal....



BUT I don't want to mess my engine up worser than it already is.

WHAT SHOULD I DO!?!?



MAIN BEARING



ROD BEARING



CRANK

 

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i'd just spray the engine with degreaser, then hose it out.. or use a pressure washer. blow it dry with your air compressor after so nothing rusts. then, if the crank looks good and isn't all scored up, just replace the bearings and reassemble.

if you aren't going to get it reassembled and running within 24 hours of washing it out, spray down everything inside with wd40 as a rust protector.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i'd just spray the engine with degreaser, then hose it out.. or use a pressure washer. blow it dry with your air compressor after so nothing rusts. then, if the crank looks good and isn't all scored up, just replace the bearings and reassemble.

if you aren't going to get it reassembled and running within 24 hours of washing it out, spray down everything inside with wd40 as a rust protector.
I wonder if my cam bearing is ok?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i've fixed 3 engines before which have run out of oil. it's always the main and rod bearings that get destroyed, cams looked fine every time. i wouldn't worry about the cam.
Well I took of the metal piece below the oil screen and it is getting good OIL PSI now....

So I assume the bearing is ok...


What would happen if the cam bearing is gone? Lose Oil PSI?

or will my engine blow up like a TERRORIST IN THE MIDDLE EAST!?!
 

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IF you're running good psi, you're bearings are probably all fine. i've never had a cam bearing fail so i don't know the consiquences. i suspect it would just wear to the point that you lost oil pressure.
 

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Did you use the #3 main bearing cap bolt that has the stud on it for the pickup tube support when you did the rear sump oil pan swap? If you didn't you need to do that ot you'll be tearing it down again real soon.
 

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Did you use the #3 main bearing cap bolt that has the stud on it for the pickup tube support when you did the rear sump oil pan swap? If you didn't you need to do that ot you'll be tearing it down again real soon.
Can you explain why?

When my 460 went together, I got messed over 5 different oil filter pick up tubes, one was good but using the 3rd main bolt stud didn't work. I got 5,000 miles on the engine, running it good. Always held 30 psi warm idle, goes upto about 50 under throttle, and 60 psi cold.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Can you explain why?

When my 460 went together, I got messed over 5 different oil filter pick up tubes, one was good but using the 3rd main bolt stud didn't work. I got 5,000 miles on the engine, running it good. Always held 30 psi warm idle, goes upto about 50 under throttle, and 60 psi cold.
The stud is for the longer pickup tube to hold on too so it won't bounce in the engine if you get a rear pickup oil pan.

And Yes 78Bronco. I did get the stud. Just I had to bend the pickup tube because the oil screen piece was hitting my pan so that's where I messed up at.
 

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a friend of mine just picked up a 79 f150 4x4 with a 460, not sure what the motor is out of but he was told its not the original motor, it has a slight tick on the bottom end near the back side of the oil pan under heavy throttle and you can also hear it at a cruising speed... could this be the same issue of the pickup tube not being secured proper?
 
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