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Discussion Starter #1
well i don't 100% know why i did this, because my ttb worked extremely well.
because my bronco is barely drivin anymore and has turned into "just a toy" i decided to go solid.
here is where i strated, before tearing into the truck i acquired an axle that i figured i would rebuild


cleaned up

cold galv paint

blackened up

parts and pn's used to rebuild the axle





the only thing not listed is the pinion seal.
i used the internals from my ttb
4.56 gears and a powertrax
i also fabbed up the tranny x member before ripping the truck apart



more to come, i have to eat
 

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Discussion Starter #2
false alarm, dinner isn't ready
then the ripping began
don't bash the jack stands, my dad came over to borrow the big ones the afternoon that i took the pics, this was my temporary method for holding the truck up.


pile of parts i took off

here is wher i am missing a few pics
i cleaned up the coil buckets and bolted them on much like others have done, except i cut the bottom bend off and raised them 1.25 inches and added a new lower portion to the bucket.
also before tearing this apart i ordered james duff arms and 6 inch superflex coils and coil mounts from jbg. i ended up using 6.25 degree c bushings. when the stuff came in the truck was apart and i bolted the pile of parts together and slid it under the truck.



i made a set of coil retainers that mount in 3 places to be sure the coil stays where i put it.


then came the brakes, i used new 79 truck rotors and the popular 78 t-bird calipers. the lines i had made locally by fisher auto.

okay honey, uh oh now its time to eat, be back later
 

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Discussion Starter #3
okay, back to buisness,
once this was done i measured for shocks and found that 14 inch travel would be fine, i called wild horses for a set of shocks and mounts





the same time i ordered the shock i called ballistic fab for their chebby tie rod kit and xkut for a reamer, mine was 6 degree and i needed 7. afew days later i got this


next i made the trac bar bracket and a new mount for the steering stabilizer(the dom is much bigger than the superrunner steering)



steering almost done

finally with wheels again

now i haven't mentioned much about the trac bar, at first i was going to use the stock one (i painted it and bought new bushings) but i just didn't like the bend near the lower mount, so i bought the superlift adjustable trac bar and it should be here tomorrow. once i mount it i can drill the upper mount hole to keep it parallel with the drag link.


updated pics will be posted and any important info that i missed will be added here too. i also thought about putting together a quick cost sheet for anyone who want to do a similiar set up.
later, bad96
 

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Engineer
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Did you cut the crossmember?
 

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Engineer
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I see it cut now that I look closer but I wasnt sure if you reinforced it or not
 

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Good job on not ending up with a shitton of lift :twotu:

I'm interested on hearing the impressions of someone who just did the swap because they could.

I'm liking the build, thanks for the thread :beer
 

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looks great. Did you go with a locker?
 

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Very Nice. I am also interested to see the amount of lift you got. And let me make sure I am following you correctly here. You moved the coil mounts up on the frame.


Looks Great.
Keeps us updated
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Good job on not ending up with a shitton of lift :twotu:

I'm interested on hearing the impressions of someone who just did the swap because they could.

I'm liking the build, thanks for the thread :beer
thank you, when i get it out if it stops snowing(no top on it ) i'll let you know how it is
Nice and informative write up.
thank you


looks great. Did you go with a locker?
yeah i had a powertrax in the ttb and reused it, there used to be and auburn ected in there but it broke just like the rear one

Very Nice. I am also interested to see the amount of lift you got. And let me make sure I am following you correctly here. You moved the coil mounts up on the frame.
Looks Great.
Keeps us updated
it only sits about 5/8 inch higher than the 6 inch ttb lift that was on it, yes i moved the coil buckets up 1.25 inches(i picked this # because the soft springs, i figured they would settle some plus there is a winch up front)because i used 6 inch 70's springs and didn't want to end up with 8 inches of lift
 

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How did you figure 6.25* bushings? you're going to be about 6" of lift, and if the duff arm is the same as cage, they already provide 4* of correction. So most go with 2*. I went with 4* only because no one could answer my question years ago, and this basically left me with about 7-8* caster, too much. I didn't know they made a 6.25* degree bushing, but that added to the duff arm correction would likely put you at about 10*. You'll see it in the angularity of your knuckle arm for attaching the tie rod.

Edit: maybe what you meant, but did not 'splain, was that the duff arm gives you 4.25* correction, and then you went with 2* bushings?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
How did you figure 6.25* bushings? you're going to be about 6" of lift, and if the duff arm is the same as cage, they already provide 4* of correction. So most go with 2*. I went with 4* only because no one could answer my question years ago, and this basically left me with about 7-8* caster, too much. I didn't know they made a 6.25* degree bushing, but that added to the duff arm correction would likely put you at about 10*. You'll see it in the angularity of your knuckle arm for attaching the tie rod.

Edit: maybe what you meant, but did not 'splain, was that the duff arm gives you 4.25* correction, and then you went with 2* bushings?
hey shadow, i knew you would chime in sooner or later.
no i went with a 6.25 degree bushing from james duff. i could have prob serched more to see what others were running for bushings but thats my mistake. i think i do have to much caster, but it isn't nearly 10*. i just went with what duffs suggested and from my measurements. i know there is 4* built in, but according to my angle finder i am sitting around 4.5-5 degrees caster. this is taken from the bottom ball joint and the top of the knuckle(one reads 4.5 the other reads 5). i guess i won't actually know until it hits the alignment machine.

what do you mean by this-You'll see it in the angularity of your knuckle arm for attaching the tie rod. do you see it in my pics, or do you mean your truck?
 

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Nice job and good write-up. I like how you did it just 'cause you could.
 

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hey shadow, i knew you would chime in sooner or later.
no i went with a 6.25 degree bushing from james duff. i could have prob serched more to see what others were running for bushings but thats my mistake. i think i do have to much caster, but it isn't nearly 10*. i just went with what duffs suggested and from my measurements. i know there is 4* built in, but according to my angle finder i am sitting around 4.5-5 degrees caster. this is taken from the bottom ball joint and the top of the knuckle(one reads 4.5 the other reads 5). i guess i won't actually know until it hits the alignment machine.

what do you mean by this-You'll see it in the angularity of your knuckle arm for attaching the tie rod. do you see it in my pics, or do you mean your truck?

hey there

looks good ! :thumbup

to check your caster - why not just drop the front drive shaft, turn the front yoak to aim streigh up & down and then put the angle finder accross the front yoak ??? it's very easy to do ? is this not an appropreate way to measure caster?

:popc1:
 

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GREAT BUILD! You make it look like a weekend install! :notworthy
 

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1996 Bronco 5.8l E40D(soon to be ZF) 4:56 and 35s
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hey there

looks good ! :thumbup

to check your caster - why not just drop the front drive shaft, turn the front yoak to aim streigh up & down and then put the angle finder accross the front yoak ??? it's very easy to do ? is this not an appropreate way to measure caster?

:popc1:
I am wondering about this also. I have not seen any discussion on the correct way to check caster.
 
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