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I am getting a super bad clunking whenever I turn in reverse and when I switch from reverse to drive and turn the wheel. I thought it was the sway bar, but it wasnt. Im guessing that it is eithier the u joint or the ball joint? I have a guy that I use for this kinda stuff who is reasonable price wise, and I figure now would be a good time to go in there and replace everything anyways since alot of this stuff will be apart. What other components would you change while you have everything apart? Wheel bearings? Tie Rod Ends?

Also, what brand of ball joints are yalls favorite?

Thanks,
Patrick
 

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Check your radius arms, brackets, and bushings. My radius arm bracket rusted completely through and made a terrible racket until I discovered it. I recently did my ball joints as well and that was because I would get a clunk when I drove over bumps, but that has gone away with the ball joints. Check those radius arms though!

:beer

Tony
 

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definitely good ideas with checking hub bearing and replacing if they have any serious mileage, spindle bearing, TRE's.

BJ's are Spicer non-greasable, or I am liking the Moog that have the 45* angle lower part that the zerk goes in. You can actually grease your upper BJ if you install it correctly (if this is the same BJ as on a D44 solid axle like what is in mine).
 

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My wife and I did the ball joints ourselves, no experience. Handy to have a good vice and an impact wrench for the c-clamp tool. You need the hub socket and a descent set of tools. Getting the spindle off was a PITA though. We replaced the inner/outer bearings and while we were in there and worked on the wheel joints.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check your radius arms, brackets, and bushings. My radius arm bracket rusted completely through and made a terrible racket until I discovered it. I recently did my ball joints as well and that was because I would get a clunk when I drove over bumps, but that has gone away with the ball joints. Check those radius arms though!

:beer

Tony
My BDS radius arms are six months old along with the bracket and the bushings as well, so I know for a fact that that isnt the problem. I am getting a clunking whenever I go over like the little speed bumps in the middle of the road though. I will take a look at everything this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I replaced the other axle pivot pushing on the drop down bracket. Now both of the drop brackets have new bushings.

However , It is still making that super loud clunking noice whenever I turn in reverse or am going from reverse to drive on an incline. Also, whenever I am driving and turning over bumps Im getting this bad clunking noise where it feels like something is wallered out. I have a feeling that it is the u-joints?

What do yall think? Btw the whole radius arm assembly is new, and my mechanic looked at the ball joints and said that there is good shape.


I can get a video if that would help to describe the problem I am having.
 

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So, I forgot to mention this earlier.

One of my other attempts to fix clunking was in fact replacing the U-joints in the front axle. The needle bearings in mine were GONE, and the axle shafts would bounce up and down and make quite a racket as well. I could almost feel it in the floorboards I think. It's been awhile, but if this is the case, a big ass shop press or an impact gun and the C-Clamp looking tool for pushing those out will be your best friend.

Pain in the ass job, especially if your rusted, but your front end should come right apart if you've been in there recently. It just took us a LOT of time to get these rusty joints out, and then we actually bent the fork on the end of the shaft putting so much damned pressure on those to force them out.

GOOD LUCK!
:beer
Tony
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thats exactly what it is. I can like feel it through the floorboard, espicially on the passenger side. Where you also getting a bad clunking while turning in reverse?

BTW this all happened after I lifted it. It never made any noises when it was stock, so the change in geometry probably triggered it?
 

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It's been awhile, so honestly I can't remember. But it's an easy check, just see I'd you have play when you turn the shaft by hand. You can also jack it up and spin the tire with the hubs locked and see I'd you hear the noise or see play. Real simple test.

Oh poo! Also check your skid plate bolts on your t-case and trans. I had issues there, too. Damn bronco had every bolt finger tight basically!

Report back! :thumbup
 

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do you have auto hubs?
 

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This sounds almost ecactly like what im having. i had a mechanic change my ball joints and the sound actually became more frequent ... i tried this today to try to narrow down the issue ... when im hearing the clunking noise i turned on the 4x4 from the dash switch and the noise stopped until i either reverserd out of the drive way and then went into drive or when going from park into drive facing downward on a hill . In both cases flicking the 4x4 on and then off again stop the noise. My current theory is spindle bearing. I hope this helps.
 

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This sounds almost ecactly like what im having. i had a mechanic change my ball joints and the sound actually became more frequent ... i tried this today to try to narrow down the issue ... when im hearing the clunking noise i turned on the 4x4 from the dash switch and the noise stopped until i either reverserd out of the drive way and then went into drive or when going from park into drive facing downward on a hill . In both cases flicking the 4x4 on and then off again stop the noise. My current theory is spindle bearing. I hope this helps.
That sounds like a bad auto hub to me, spindle bearings shouldn't clunk. Clunking noises are usually u-joints in my experience, but in your case it sounds like the auto hub isn't locking/unlocking like it should. I'd check those first and go from there.

To the OP, clunking while in 2wd would probably be a rear driveshaft joint. Since you said that it clunks while turning also, it may be a joint in the front axle, especially if you're hubs aren't unlocking like they should. I'd check all of them and just replace as necessary.
 

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The other thing to check is the bolts holding the TTB to frame. On mine the bolt hole on the bracket cracked and though you couldn't make it move by hand, it did under load. When it finally went to the Bronco Death Wobble in mine, this is what fixed it.
 

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Why don't you check the ball joints?

Chock the wheels, jack said left or right tire up. Put your hands at 12 and 6 and try to see if the joint mooves. If it does, make sure its not the wheel bearings. Look for the movement at the ball joints themselves. If its the wheel bearings, then the rotorwill move and the knuckle will stay in place. Mine was extremely bad (moved almost an 1/8 inch). You can check out the tre's as well. Put your hands on 3 and 9 positions on the wheel, (with the other side on the ground) and move the wheel back and forth. Check for movement at the tre(s) and the rotor area as well. If it's a wheel bearing, itll move just about any way you push (up down, left right, and diagonal).

If you wheel bearings are only slightly loose, you may get away with tightening them up, but if you're lucks like mine, they will be junk :banghead:

Good luck.

KC
 
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