[TimLang]

Ive been trying a bunch of different searches looking for someone that has re-done all the battery cables, alternator and ground cables to help me with lengths and whatnot.

I should be starting my 3G swap next week when work slows down so i would like to do all the cables.

I have the Alternator charge kit from RJM so im good there

My work to tackle is full battery + & - and 3 or 4 ground upgrades

Im fine with doing the body, engine and frame grounds, its just a matter of getting to them and knowing what lengths i need

What i could use some asistance with is making sure i have all the battery connections right, as far as solenoids, starter and battery grounds go. All of these should be done with 2 gauge, correct?

Thanks in advance... im almost there

Tim

Thanks

 

[miesk5]

yo,

I have some upgrade LINKs in my site @ http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=75
such as;
for example;
Terminals, Late-Model OE-style pic; "...The "lead-free" description is misleading. The other solder-on terminals are also lead-free; they're brass or copper with a tin or silver-solder coating. But this style may be a better fix if the damaged terminal is this style since it can merely be unbolted & replaced (no soldering) if the original ring terminals are undamaged. If these new ring terminals must be soldered on, the wires should be cleaned & tinned (coated with fresh solder) first. Then these rings can be crimped on & soldered to the tinned wires..."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/726315Battery Cable Positive 14431 (WC-8702)

92-96 Battery & Starter Wiring


IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 Cable Assembly 14B060
2 Cable Assembly (Lightning) 14B060
3 To Heated Oxygen Sensor for 5.0L/5.8L Under 8500, 4.9L, 5.8L (Lightning), and 7.5L F-450 Only
4 Bolt 56558-S 26-34 N-m (19-25 Ft-Lb)
5 Starter Motor 11002
6 Nut and Washer Assembly N805403-S100 10-14 N-m (8-10 Ft-Lb)
7 Screw and Washer Assembly 390926-S36 for All Gas, Except 7.5L Manual Transmission which use Screw 389883-S36 19-26 N-m (14-20 Ft-Lb)
8 Starter Motor Relay Assembly 11450
9 Nut and Washer Assembly 381561-S36 7-9 N-m (60-82 In-Lb)
10 Screw N803991-S36 4-6 N-m (35-49 In-Lb)
11 Cap 14A396
12 Star Washer 34943-S36
13 Existing Gas Vapor Tube 9S286
14 Battery 10655
15 Nut 33799-S2 (Auto Transmission) 11-16 N-m (8-12 Ft-Lb)
16 Cover-Starter Solenoid (Red) 11N087
17 Stud N806925-S36MG
18 Chassis Ground 14301
19 Bolt for 14301 Frame Ground 390158-S36 11-16 N-m (8-12 Ft-Lb)
20 Heated Oxygen Sensor Wire Assembly 9F472
21 Exhaust Pipe 5A212
22 Wire Assembly 12A690
23 Starter Solenoid Heat Shield (5.0L/5.8L Only) (Part of 11002)
24 Frame 5005
25 To Engine Ground 14301
26 Nut N621906-S36
27 Body Grounds 12A581
28 Engine Block 6010
29 Engine Bay Harness to Power Distribution Center 12A581
30 Alternator Harness 14305

POS = heavy Red circuit from battery Positive to starter relay, starter solenoid, alternator, and power distribution center
NEG = heavy Black circuit from battery Negative to frame, block, and fender
SOL = medium Red circuit from starter relay to starter solenoid

SEE MORE @ http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/828671
by Steve83
=====


btw, Inspect Battery tray & wrap-around insulation "blanket" too; they are available

--

Cable Soldering
Source: by Ryan M (Fireguy50) at http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=59


=======

@
http://www.broncolinks.com/index.php?index=142
Battery + Cable Replacement in a 96 5.8
60" battery cable 4 gauge
32" battery cable 4 gauge (upgrade)
4'6" section of 10 gauge wire (upgrade)
1 quick disconnect 12 - 10 gauge
1 ring terminal 12 -10 gauge
1 battery terminal (w/wing nut)

Upgraded to 2/0
Source: by JMac96 at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=152889


====

Slow Cranking or a Grinding Noise; "... Problems with the negative battery cable is a major cause of starting problems in Ford, Lincoln, and Mercury vehicles. Bad battery cables can cause slow cranking or a grinding noise when trying to start an engine. On some late model vehicles dating back to 1994, the wire connection inside the battery terminal connector corrodes easily. This will cause a voltage drop in the cable and result in low voltage being supplied to the starter. You can check for voltage drop in the cable using a digital voltmeter. Connect the negative probe of the voltmeter to the negative battery post (not the battery terminal connector). Then connect the positive probe to the starter case and crank the engine. The voltage reading should be less than .5 volts. A higher reading means there is resistance in the cable or the battery terminal connector. Clean the cable end and the battery terminal connector and test again. If the voltage reading is still higher than .5 volts, replace the cable and the battery terminal connector..."
Source: by genco1.com

---------

Terminal Grease TSB 98-24-6 for 81-96; "...Ford Motor Company has released a new Electrical Grease (F8AZ-19G208-AA) to reduce the possibility of moisture corrosion at the terminals..."
Add the new grease during electrical connection repair.
CAUTION: ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR GREASE SHOULD NOT BE USED IN HIGH VOLTAGE CONNECTIONS FOR SPARK PLUG AND COIL WIRE APPLICATIONS.

Proper Uses Of The New Electrical Grease Include:
Electrical Connectors
Battery Connections
Light Sockets
Starter Terminals


Do Not Use On:Spark Plug Wires
Coil Wires
Spark Plug-to-Coil Connections
Low Current Flow Switches (12V Systems less than 0.1 amp) Source: by Ford



=========

Ford has some lengths for the OEM exact replacement; but for those cables that have sharp/many bends, you will need to make them a little longer;
see Ford's MC and OEM brands Parts site @ http://www.fordparts.com
Select Model and go thru the drill
Electrical, Charging and Starting
Battery and Related Components

5.8L; 56'' long - 4 gauge

then click on "View Image" to see it and other cables to relay, starter...
an Image example is attached below


Ford Motorcraft® (fordinstallersupport.com) - Rotating Electrical (Starters, Alternators, Window & Wiper Motors, etc.), Ignition Components, Wire & Cable, Battery Cables, Windshield Washer Pumps, Wiring Harness Accessories, etc. Parts Catalog, Bronco/Ford truck & all Fords w/Ford Part Numbers, Illustrations & Cross References (54 MB pdf)
http://www.fordinstallersupport.com/files/catalogs/ewc200.pdf

Not much help here in lenght; but does show somew stock OEM Gauges such as WC-9033
48" — No. 4 Ga.
Ref. IIIus. 10 on page 317
Battery Cable (+) to starter
Bronco 1993
F Series 1993
page 321


==

Check Grounds;

Location pic, 1/0 under the AC Compressor pic in a 93
Source: by nemean at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/562810

Intake Manifold to Block Strap Location pic in
Source: by boss (bossind, Steve) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/768672


Location, Frame & Battery pic in a 94 5.8; "...Frame ground just inboard of the R spring tower. The black battery wire goes from the front bolt of the engine mount (on the block) to this tab & up to the battery post, where a smaller black wire goes to the core support, providing a continuous ground path between the engine, frame, battery, & body..."
Source: by CodysBigBlueBronco (how much $???) at http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/media/309108

Location pics in a 92
Source: by Jeremy M (Big '92 jermil01) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/2896/76377


G101 front of engine compartment, front of fender apron (D1) - RH = Passenger side mine has 2 small black wires between starter relay & headlight; this is #5 in the diagram; G100 & G104 (tied together in diagram); G100 @ LH front of engine compartment, on upper radiator support; G104 @ Rear of LH fender apron near hood hinge and 4WABS Test Connector (RED); G100 Serves Component, LH Oxygen Sensor, Fuel Pump Module, Inertia Fuel Shutoff, Misfire Sensor, Misfire Sensor Shield, Output Shaft Speed (OSS) Sensor, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.0L; G101 Serves, RH Oxygen Sensor; G104 Serves Component: 4WABS Control Module, 4WABS Data Link Connector, 4WABS Relay #1, Instrument Cluster, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.8L, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.8L, Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM), Trailer Relay Box; G103 (battery to engine) Lower RH front of engine serves Component, 4WABS Pump Motor, Battery, Data Link Connector (DLC), Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.0L, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.8L, Right Front Park/Turn Lamp, Right Front Side Marker Lamp Right Headlamp; G104 Rear of LH fender apron; G201 Behind bottom of LH cowl panel (driver's side kick panel),Component, Compass/Outside Temperature Module, Day/Night Mirror, Inside Cargo Lamp, Left Power Lumbar Compressor Motor, Outside Cargo/High Mount Stop Lamps, Right Power Lumbar Compressor Motor, Seat Belt Switch, Door Lock Actuator (PDL & Probably Power Window Motor); G200 Behind bottom of RH cowl panel serves Component, Air Bag Diagnostic Monitor, Electronic Shift Control Module, Instrument Cluster, Programmable Speedometer/Odometer Module (PSOM), Remote/Keyless Entry Module, Speed Control Servo/Amplifier Assembly; G103 (battery to engine) Lower RH front of engine serves Component, 4WABS Pump Motor, Battery, Data Link Connector (DLC), Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.0L, Powertrain Control Module (PCM) 5.8L, Right Front Park/Turn Lamp, Right Front Side Marker Lamp, Right Headlamp; G400 Rear Window Defroster @ LH rear corner of cargo area, near rear lamp assembly; Engine Block pic in a 94 5.8; G401 LH rear corner of cargo area, near rear lamp assembly (F9); "...The black battery wire goes from the front bolt of the engine mount (on the block) to this tab & up to the battery post, where a smaller black wire goes to the core support, providing a continuous ground path between the engine, frame, battery, & body; Frame & Battery pic in a 93; "...With the wheelwell gone, it's easy to inspect the frame ground, just inboard of the spring tower on top of the frame rail. The battery ground cable is stripped ~3/4" and a tab is soldered on so it can be bolted to the frame; Intake Manifold to Block Strap Location in a 96 5.0 is between 2nd & 3rd plugs on passenger side Locations & Components in a 96; SEE DIAGRAMS
Source: by miesk5

 

[Seattle FSB]

Here are pics of my 1ga Power/Ground upgrade.


Battery/Power Distribution Stud

Power Distribution Stud/Relay

Alternator/Relay

Battery/Frame Ground

Frame/Engine Block Ground

Battery/Radiator Core Support G101 Ground Post

Intake Support/Body Ground Strap

Body/Intake Ground Strap

Body/Hood Ground Strap

Frame/Transmission Grounding Strap

Frame/Lower Radiator Core Grounding Strap

 

[Fireguy50]

http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125767

 

[351w500]

I highly recommend the distribution stud and the military style battery lugs, The battery lugs make it so you dont have to keep loosening the battery post bolts and the distribution stud takes the load of wires off of the relay-

 

[weasel-like animal]

I just ordered a bunch of grounding cable parts from Fireguy50 and he shipped them super fast (I wish he had 4GA terminal rings in stock though!). All you need is a propane torch to assemble them. It was my first time using a torch like that and it was VERY easy to do. Just carefully measure the lengths you need and order! Can't go wrong.

EDIT: Here is the small grounding terminal I rebuilt for my brother's BKO on Sunday. I used 2GA. Also ran a 2GA wire to the engine, and am planning on utilizing the stock 4GA cable once I get the terminal ring in.

 

[TimLang]

Thanks for the info everyone!

Seattle FSB - can you elaborate more on how you have your positive terminal ran? im curious about the stud and the 3 yellow cables connected to it.

 

[Seattle FSB]

Seattle FSB - can you elaborate more on how you have your positive terminal ran? im curious about the stud and the 3 yellow cables connected to it.

Basically, I moved the overload of wires from the hot side of the relay to the new Distribution Stud, except the Alternator Charge Cable.

Then I ran a short cable from the Power Distribution Stud to the Relay. All of those wires were previously crowded on the Relay Post. Now there is only a Battery+ and the Alternator Charge Cable.

Here is a pic of my three yellow Charge/Power Distribution wires that are on the hot side of the Starter Relay, and in my case directly from the Battery+ on the new Power Distribution Stud.

Here is the Charge/Power Distribution Schematic for my 1990 Bronco. Note the three yellow wires are always hot.

 

[pfun41]

I just ordered a bunch of grounding cable parts from Fireguy50 and he shipped them super fast (I wish he had 4GA terminal rings in stock though!). All you need is a propane torch to assemble them. It was my first time using a torch like that and it was VERY easy to do. Just carefully measure the lengths you need and order! Can't go wrong.

EDIT: Here is the small grounding terminal I rebuilt for my brother's BKO on Sunday. I used 2GA. Also ran a 2GA wire to the engine, and am planning on utilizing the stock 4GA cable once I get the terminal ring in.

so only the ground is gonna be 2 gauge?

 

[TimLang]

Basically, I moved the overload of wires from the hot side of the relay to the new Distribution Stud, except the Alternator Charge Cable.

Then I ran a short cable from the Power Distribution Stud to the Relay. All of those wires were previously crowded on the Relay Post. Now there is only a Battery+ and the Alternator Charge Cable.

Here is a pic of my three yellow Charge/Power Distribution wires that are on the hot side of the Starter Relay, and in my case directly from the Battery+ on the new Power Distribution Stud.

Here is the Charge/Power Distribution Schematic for my 1990 Bronco. Note the three yellow wires are always hot.

Thanks Seattle FSB! So just to clarify because i wasnt sure why there are 3 yellow wires, they all go from stud to relay? or are they branched off? thats the only thing i didnt understand. nice setup btw!

 

[20sNaRanger]

not to steal your thunder in this thread...but let me clarify something real fast.

the 2g wire that goes from the negative post on the battery originally had a "ground" in the middle of it and the end went to above the starter. So it was like a 2 for 1 kind of deal.

So you're supposed to run a ground from the negative battery terminal to the body? is that a correct statement?

I ask this because when changing out my wiring for the 3g, I replaced cables, and one of em had the thing in the middle...but it wasn't secured to anything. Should I run a 2g cable from the negative post of the battery to somewhere on the frame??

Again sorry for stealing the spotlight for a minute. just wanted to clarify

 

[weasel-like animal]

so only the ground is gonna be 2 gauge?

No, I'm also upgrading the + cables to 2 and 4ga where appropriate.

 

[TravisITGuy]

yo,

so in view A, the cable that has the molded rubber Y connector that seems to span both posts on the solenoid, how would you go about changing that out or can you? I briefly suspect one side is cable from battery to solenoid post and then there is a tiny wire also running to that molded Y but unsure what it is or where it goes.

 

[Seattle FSB]

so in view A, the cable that has the molded rubber Y connector that seems to span both posts on the solenoid, how would you go about changing that out or can you? I briefly suspect one side is cable from battery to solenoid post and then there is a tiny wire also running to that molded Y but unsure what it is or where it goes.

I suspect that the "tiny" wire is a 12v wire to the Starter Solenoid on the PMGR Starter. It would be small because it is a control wire that does not carry much load. If this is the case, the Starter Motor+ would be connected directly to the Starter Relay+, or battery+, with a larger cable.

I have never disassembled a rubber Y connector to the Starter Relay as I have never had one. My Bronco originally used a Motorcraft Direct Drive Starter before my PMGR Upgrade. I suppose you could place the large side of the Y Connector on the Power Distribution Stud and then run a new Control Wire to the Starter Solenoid.

The PMGR Starter is wired like this:

 

[Fireguy50]

you can cut it in half and replace just the side needed

 

[Shadofax]

I suspect that the "tiny" wire is a 12v wire to the Starter Solenoid on the PMGR Starter. It would be small because it is a control wire that does not carry much load. If this is the case, the Starter Motor+ would be connected directly to the Starter Relay+, or battery+, with a larger cable.

I have never disassembled a rubber Y connector to the Starter Relay as I have never had one. My Bronco originally used a Motorcraft Direct Drive Starter before my PMGR Upgrade. I suppose you could place the large side of the Y Connector on the Power Distribution Stud and then run a new Control Wire to the Starter Solenoid.

The PMGR Starter is wired like this:

I kept my wiring stock, so the little 12ga wires goes from the relay to the starter, and the actual power for the starter comes from the batt +, which is how it was stock.

you can cut it in half and replace just the side needed

That's what I did.

 

[Fireguy50]

Here is that cable

I cut out all of it from my fathers truck. Also removed the big starter relay.
Put in a 30amp relay for the starter relay (only for PMGR starters), and a distribution stud for all the battery connections (like below)

 

[Little Harry]

I am not trying to take the thread in a different direction but can someone tell me what the part number is for the gray PMGR starter solenoid/relay. Or at least what year/make/model it was available on. I recently installed a PMGR starter but I still have the black (old) solenoid on the inside of the fenderwell.

 

[TravisITGuy]

Thanks you guys thats what i needed to know.

 

[zrxw13]

Mine: http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=187342

:thumbup