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Looks like those shocks are gonna bottom out! I hope you extended the bump stops. Then again looks like you only got two inches of down ward travel.
 

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Sorry, you have some great pictures but I didnt bother to read you post. Till now! You say that you coil popped out! I can see that happening with those long shocks your running. Long travel is good but you need to check and see if the tie rods can handle the angles. You dont want to break a tie rod on the road or trail. Jack up you truck by the frame and check it out.
 

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I think I've tried just about every shock on the rear of my 95 Bronco and it still bucks like a Bronco on the woops. Wright now I got two 5150s and two Procomp 9500s on the rear and it still bucks. Any ideas?
By the way I got Skyjacker Soft Ride Leafs.
A cououple of things. 1) look at the leafs, a good set of deavers make a world of difference. 2) what valving do you have on the rear shocks. 3) what is your front setup.

Joel helped me get my Bronco tuned and it was very interesting to see him get the front working differently, which helped the rear a ton.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
Sorry, you have some great pictures but I didnt bother to read you post. Till now! You say that you coil popped out! I can see that happening with those long shocks your running. Long travel is good but you need to check and see if the tie rods can handle the angles. You dont want to break a tie rod on the road or trail. Jack up you truck by the frame and check it out.
the shocks are about two inches too long in terms of downtravel and about an inch too short in terms of uptravel. I would just sell them and get some Bilsteins that are the right length and all but they are riding fantastic on/off road. I think I found an almost free solution to my problem. I am going to relocate the front lower shock mount (the rears are fine) down on the bracket two inches so that I have more room for uptravel and the downtravel will be perfect.

All I need is a 1/2 inch drill bit and a couple of the universal lower shock studs you can get at Auto zone. Total cost 15 bucks. :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #45
Well I want to save some pics for FOTM so here's some of the trip to Cleghorn.

Trail got narrow and I had to back out


View of Silverwood Lake


Some hill pics


I chose the left

Bad Results :haha

But after 5 mins was back at it

Jeeps 'nuff said

The Ford makes it look Easy
 

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Nice pics. Ya'll are lucky out on the west coast to have that kinda scenery around to wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Nice pics. Ya'll are lucky out on the west coast to have that kinda scenery around to wheel.
Yeah I'm .5 hours from the mountains, 1 from the beach and 1.5 from the Desert.............Where do you wanna wheel? :goodfinge

Thanks for the compliments :thumbup
 

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B350 built at THE SHOP
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The truck is looking GREAT!!! I'm gonna have to step it up and finish my roll cage and install my front tube bumper...
 

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Discussion Starter #49
The truck is looking GREAT!!! I'm gonna have to step it up and finish my roll cage and install my front tube bumper...
Thanks for the compliments. I was able to see your truck in action with Ed behind the wheel in Lytle Creek.......Very nice truck! I really like the way a tube bumper looks. I'm going to fab a winch mount for between the frame rails and use the skid plate to mount the fairlead and keep things Incognito.
 

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oscar espinoza
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Nice truck kyle..did I spell that right...we need to go wheeling how bout cleghorn this Saturday pm me
 

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Thanks for the compliments. I was able to see your truck in action with Ed behind the wheel in Lytle Creek.......Very nice truck! I really like the way a tube bumper looks. I'm going to fab a winch mount for between the frame rails and use the skid plate to mount the fairlead and keep things Incognito.
I have a tube bumper already, I just need to mount it. I'm gonna put a winch on a 2" reciever so I can go front or rear as needed...
 

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Like them tires spinnin'
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This is what the scammers expect, the check will NY Escort only bounce about 3 weeks to a month later at which point your bank will take back the money leaving you short of the shipping money. The best way of avoiding this fraud is not to sell your vehicle to someone who wants to pay the shipper.I NY Escorts hope all this hasn't scared you away from the Internet, If you are sensible and wary about offers that seem too good to be true then you should be Ok, just NY Asian Escorts apply the same commonsense you use in everyday life, after all if a stranger walked up to you in the street and said "Hi I am from your bank what's NY Asian Escort your credit card number and PIN"
Good advice, Asian hooker TROLL!:twak
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Nice truck kyle..did I spell that right...we need to go wheeling how bout cleghorn this Saturday pm me
I'm down, last time we wheeled was Lytle Creek in that damn Mini Blizzard. I was like Fawk when I saw you were running for FOTM ! :cry I really like the paint you chose for the truck and the blacked out interior. Good Luck Oscar :thumbup
 

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dam i'm torn also you both voted for me!!!!!! :whiteflag but i did nomiate kyle first!!!!!:rockon.........help....... oscar is from acora :banghead can i endose both of you?
 

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Discussion Starter #56
dam i'm torn also you both voted for me!!!!!! :whiteflag but i did nomiate kyle first!!!!!:rockon.........help....... oscar is from acora :banghead can i endose both of you?
It's all good. I'm working on like thirty different things for my truck like my motor rebuild (goal is 300hp and smog legal) which should be done by Summer and Gears and a locker and my rear bumper and my front winch mount and rear shocks including custom mounts and blah blah blah. So if I don't win this time I'll have more ammo for the next..............That Don't mean I'm backing out!!!! :goodfinge
 

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Discussion Starter #57
been busy doing some things to the truck to make it a little nicer. The door stricker bushings were well worn so I got some new ones and I noticed there was a Large Gap at the top of the door and it wasn't shutting right so I adjusted the striker so it would shut right and the gaps would be correct. There was also water getting in the truck when it rained and was getting the driver side carpet wet so I figured the gaps were the cause, After that I took it for a drive and noticed a new whistling and was like WTF? I fixed the door gaps and bushings and now the wind is getting in more? :banghead
Upon first glance the Door seals looked fine but when I was checking for holes I noticed some parts of it were torn at the top and I went to Auto zone and checked out a new door seal and noticed the difference in thickness between the new one and mine. Okay so the door seals are flat and need to be replaced Okay. WOW what a quieter ride and difference adjusting the door gaps and changing the seals made! I also Peel N' Sealed the rear of the truck and added fiberglass insulation and padding to the rear carpet and side panels. Didn't get pics of the Insulation cause my camera killed itself (Slid off the dash and out the window when going to Lowes) but stan did a writeup on his install so search for it.

Got some pics.
You can see the marks where it was before I adjusted it

Gaps are right now

Shot of insulation I applied to the panels to reduce the rattles and keep noise down.

Seals looked fine

But were split

What I had to trim from the New seal. Shows how flat the old seal was

Shows the nice new seal and stock seats and console I aquired


I also thought I'd get some pics of the Large Case 3g alt and New battery I put in for you guys but the Engine was a tad dirty from the last trip to Cleghorn so I sprayed everything down with simple green and hosed her down.

Surprise

Doesn't even look like it should work

Where's my Battery ?

Much better

Nevermind found it
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Well guys I'm torn on what I should do next, Finish my motor build or regear and lock the rear axle and gear the front. I've been told 4.10's and 35's are perfect and the general rule is 4.56 for 35's so if I do re gear then what ratio? This is my daily driver and I want the best street performance possible.

My engine so far is ready to be put back together just is sitting in pieces. The only real thing I need is a mild cam and heads/intake. I have the stock stuff from the donor but I really don't wanna go with stock, I thinking GT40P heads and a Lighting intake if I can find it cheap.

so what do y'all think?

Option 1 - Dana 50 front chunk and stub shaft with 4.56 gear/4.10 ( Dana 50 chunk allows me to just bolt in 4.10's with no carrier change or gears since they are 4.10 and if I decide on 4.56 all I need is gears and no carrier)
And re gear the 8.8 with 4.56/4.10's and get an Open carrier for 3.93 up and throw in a lunchbox locker (Aussie, Powertrax, lockright) Estimated cost - $650-750

Option 2 - Finish motor and get a E303 cam and The GT40p heads and a Factory Lighting Intake Estimated cost - $700
 

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If you are really thrifty you can re-gear at least the rear cheap. I got an install kit minus bearings for $35 shipped. Another probably $35 for pinion and carrier bearings.... A SOLID cover for $65 with sealer and new hardware, 4.56 gears new off e-bay for $142 shipped, an open carrier free, and a installed but never driven on, Detroit E/Z locker for $75.

My brother in law and I are going to do the install so that will cost nothing.

Front will be more expensive because I'll have to buy a carrier but I'll shop for great deals for it too.
Any gear savings can be applied to engine parts since you have that going on now too.

FWIW I think 4.56 is best. Just barely higher RPM than stock 3.55's and 31" tires, but that's OK since the taller truck is pushing more air and tire now.
 
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