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Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to compile a list of parts that I will need for an up-coming build.

I'm going to be using a D44 TTB for the frontand would like to know what you guys suggest to beef it up?

I'm not looking for extended beams as the D44 TTB will already be extending my front track width plenty for my rig; I'm also not talking about re-inforcement plating for the beams or upgraded radius arms. . .that stuff is a given. What I would like to know about are components that will make the front drivetrain more durable/reliable.

Are there upgrades available for things like the spindles, knuckles, etc. even brake upgrades? I know that I can get better R&P gears and axles, but the other stuff I'm not sure about.

Are there other knuckles/spindles that I can swap on with a little work on my part?

Thanks for helping a newb to the TTB world!
 

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TTB upgrade

I'm trying to compile a list of parts that I will need for an up-coming build.

I'm going to be using a D44 TTB for the frontand would like to know what you guys suggest to beef it up?

I'm not looking for extended beams as the D44 TTB will already be extending my front track width plenty for my rig; I'm also not talking about re-inforcement plating for the beams or upgraded radius arms. . .that stuff is a given. What I would like to know about are components that will make the front drivetrain more durable/reliable.

Are there upgrades available for things like the spindles, knuckles, etc. even brake upgrades? I know that I can get better R&P gears and axles, but the other stuff I'm not sure about.

Are there other knuckles/spindles that I can swap on with a little work on my part?

Thanks for helping a newb to the TTB world!
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Going the vendor way is best since they have it all worked out. Most of us like the J setup where the arm is welded to the beam. Spherical bearing at the pivots. Use the stock pivot brackets with the bearing mod. Heims at the arm ends. Tall spring towers to get the max travel. Stock drivetrain will work for your lightweight setup. Stock axles, spindles, R&P etc. Trutrac limited slip is very popular. Relieve the crossover joint for max travel. Use the early bolted diff to change axles if required without pulling the third member. All you need is caster compensation for lots of travel. Called cut & turn. The track change will be minimal. You will need airbumps with any coil setup. Brake pads I now use are 'Hawk super duty' on drilled/slotted Rabestos hats with stock calipers. Marginal for a 8k rig but shoud be overkill for your lightweight. Believe me, the above will not break based on my 7 years of beating on my bronco.
Have you decided on the transfer? Another issue to deal with. My biggest issue with the drivetrains is the no lube CV and joints They are to small and they don't last. Bigger will at least allow lube. Must have double cardan in and out of the transfer. Big joints/CV require correct selection for the transfer. Discuss with the drive shaft experts. There are several choices that are not very good for a Bronco, but you will not have issues for a buggy.
You can build your own beam/arm setup but you will need some input or study of a vendor setup since the plating and boxing are in specific places. Maybe your message will discover a local guy with Autofab or Giant parts. Lots of diy instuctions on cut & turn. Another resource is gofastbroncos.com. lots of duplication from this site. Pretty savy bunch of DIY guys have details on both sites.

All the above it a quick summary of the classical way to do it. Not cheap, but as tough as we can make it and still have the travel and reliability. When you are done we all want to see the result.
Having fun for sure.
Paul W
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks PWMTN. . .once I start I will be making a build thread so that all can see what I'm up to.

Thanks again!
 

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I put a truetrac in mine, that gets rid of worrying about breaking spider gears or most anything in the pumpkin. Then I stuck a thicker D50 stub shaft in and a spicer U-joint.

I need mine for traction in mud and slop, not going over logs and boulders though.
 
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