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Belt Driven OBA (on board air) not a york like factory

34784 Views 108 Replies 21 Participants Last post by  cajunrebel
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10-19-10 Shadofax belt driven OBA (not York)

This will be a full on writeup over several months/most of winter that I hope spurs interest in alternatives to a York belt driven setup, if someone happens to want to look for something different as I have for years. This is also a belt driven setup, so if you are thinking high-amp electrical compressor (Oasis) or something like CO2, this is not the place. I can tell you I explored all those options, and without a doubt it's the belt driven's sheer air power supremecy and underhood stealth I've always wanted.

With the intro., I'm not knocking a york setup. The 210 is king of CFM output in my understanding, and the whole system can be fairly cheap if buying a used York210 that works from a JYard. It's just that the separate v belt setup headache (the pulley/bracket stuff is not that cheap either), and it's size/weight, and it gets in the way, and the whole oiling mess and extra hosing/connections just kept me from going this route all these years. To be honest I've kept my stock AC sitting and waiting for the day I'd re-install for OBA. But I still had that oiling mess setup.....

Until now. PAUSE for one important point so you don't have to go too far in reading if you don't have the space. The unit I will be discussing is ideal for me because it is the exact size of the stock AC compressor I removed and in my install is meant to EXACTLY go back in place of it and look just like a totally stock AC unit, you'd have to double take to realize that is my OBA. Not to say you can't work up something else, but this is truly a stealth/stock location setup for those willing to give up their AC.

While shopping on-line a couple months back I stumbled on this unit while once again trying to justify Co2 or better yet a monster electrical compressor so that I'd finally stop using my ARB underhood compressor (for my front locker) as a tire fillup station (37" tires). Anyway, I found a monster of an electrical, but at $545 and 2.6cfm at 100psi and a whopping 95Amp draw, I shuddered (the oasis does more CFM but the amp draw is basically like a winch at light load, 175amp). These units are also very large (could not fathom where it would mount under my hood), and the Oasis weighs more than a York.

So back to the on-line shopping site, their top o the line baby happened to be a belt driven AC compressor, brand new and $410. 8 cfm at 100psi, capable of up to 200psi. Ater questioning the belt driven rpm I was told this unit will do 800rpm (assuming crank and compressor pulley are equal) idle and produce 3.2cfm. Bump to 1300rpm and you could see a little over 5cfm. The york210 I've seen several figures but I believe the accurate one is that it can do 4cfm at the same 800rpm. This is substantial if you know 120/210v compressors, it's probably equivalent to a 4 HP motor driving those and will drive a good portion of the air tools out there, especially with a tank reserve.

So anyway, I am just beginning this project, I can tell you this is not the cheap alternative, but in the end, if you want:

1) The best OBA alternative that you don't have to refill at a gas place, that is hidden, and that can produce great CFM's like the York belt driven
2) That does not suck massive Amps to produce air and is compact and LIGHTWEIGHT
3) and if you've looked at the yorks, but which one, how to tell? How to rig up the pulley, and all the oiling lines and stuff and fab just not your thing? And the added hefty weight and getting in the way of everything
4) and you don't mind losing (or have unworking or have already pulled) your stock AC
5) and you want simple underhood, powerful, clean/stock look, stock belt, no mess, no fuss

This is a writeup to possibly follow.:beer

On to some beginning pics as I now have the items ordered at the house....

This is where my stock AC used to reside, drivers side, currently there is just this ford dead pulley if you don't have AC:



So this pic is pretty much what I bought online. I will still need misc. 1/4" NPT fittings and 3/8ths hose etc. but that will be local. My '95/351 factory AC compressor is on the left, new OBA compressor on right, both serpentine (though the OBA is capable of 10rib, more on that later). Actually I won't tell you all the pieces here as I think I will put them in a shopping list later. Aren't those compressors very similar though? Should be an easy fab to get the new one to fit perfect.






Overhead view, both serpentine pulleys happen to be the exact same diameter, so as long as I fab a simple mount to place the new compressor in the stock location, there is no cost of a new belt, nothing, ready to go with stock belt. size of compressors and mount tabs are very similar, so this should be fairly easy, and once I've done this it can be duplicated. Also note what's on top of the new compressor, is that a zerk????? Why yes it is. Requirement is redline grease only apx. 4month interval under normal 4wd use.







last pic for now is more about the tank, it's 8"x about 17.5" so while it's stated at 4gallon, I view it as about 3.75 gal. based on the cylinder volume calculation, but whatever. It has ports, will fit above the rear driveshaft in that nice space, holds 150psi as a safe/approved pressure, painted inside/out and DOT approved. This will hold down on compressor cycling as the pressure switch is set for 145psi max/110min. I'll regulate the output of the tank to like 95-100psi. I have a blowoff valve pictured earlier that is for 165psi (the tank is actually rated for rupture above 700psi)




Stock AC compressor is about 15lbs, new unit about 17lbs, and york I believe is 45-50lbs, an oasis more like 65lbs. My next steps are fabbing a simple mount, removing the dead pulley and installing the compressor for now. As long as clutch is not engaged it just free sprins. pics for that step coming....
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You will be putting in a hand throttle like Tim's ?? Will you detail that install as well?


$400+ for the compressor, huh? Damn. Was excited when you started pitchin this idea, but that is a lot of scratch.
yea, this is not the thread to find "CHEAP OBA". I'm pitching a factory look kinda setup, smooooooth and simple, and right on par with yorkish kinda output.

Butttttt, if you looked online for a new york because you didn't want to play around trying to find a working 210 in the Jyard, they are right at $400 for the few places selling them from what I've seen, + ship. Hand throttle I have considered. I also will be looking at just doing something more simple to the throttle plate...looking to see if I can drill a small hole and just use a pin to place the throttle at the open RPM I would want it if I ever wanted more output. Running a 4 gal tank I might never get to this.

taking my time with the install and have a few days off, so end of day today I'd like to have the compressor mounted so I can check the serpentine.
cool find.

just an FYI tho, running the stock AC compressor converted and no tank, i can still reseat a 40" tire no problem. it just requires a little bit of throttle to do so, say 2000 rpms. the compressors don't seem to last more than 2-3 years, but for $30 they usually charge from a yard for one its no biggy to me. $400 is a LOT of money for a compressor. judging from the comparable sizes, i would say the real advantage you get with the expensive comp is better service life and construction, not necessarily increased CFM/PSI.

interested to see how your tank ends up working out for you, been meaning to add one for a LONG time.
cool find.

just an FYI tho, running the stock AC compressor converted and no tank, i can still reseat a 40" tire no problem. it just requires a little bit of throttle to do so, say 2000 rpms. the compressors don't seem to last more than 2-3 years, but for $30 they usually charge from a yard for one its no biggy to me. $400 is a LOT of money for a compressor. judging from the comparable sizes, i would say the real advantage you get with the expensive comp is better service life and construction, not necessarily increased CFM/PSI.

interested to see how your tank ends up working out for you, been meaning to add one for a LONG time.
I'll keep you updated of course. I've kinda gotten off track today....the 4x4 site of course does not want you knowing who manuf. these, model # etc, so I've been doing some research. I have found the manuf., they make their stuff brand new in the USA and does not sell refurbished units. I'm fairly certain my unit is 5 cylinders and uses a wobble plate internal design, probably not unlike a stock compressor, but this one is more specifically designed to allow that grease to get throughout the compressor thus avoiding oiling through refirgerant and keeping the grease seperated from air in/out. I also believe this unit is apx. 8cubic inches so more like the york 208 (though this unit seems to flow closer to the york 10cubic inch, basically in between the 2 yorks). Anyway, totally sidetracked today as I found the service manual on-line. :toothless:tinfoil
On ebay you can get a remaned 210 with a serp pulley for under $200. Then making the braket would be the only hard part. I agree that the reman is not as nice as new, but for how much use it will get it is in the ballpark, and then two filters for the oil problem and I think you are good to go. I like your idea, but as you started the cost is greater with this route.

It is possible you have said this and I missed it, but does the new compressor just mount right up with the bolt holes for our stock AC unit???
On ebay you can get a remaned 210 with a serp pulley for under $200. Then making the braket would be the only hard part. I agree that the reman is not as nice as new, but for how much use it will get it is in the ballpark, and then two filters for the oil problem and I think you are good to go. I like your idea, but as you started the cost is greater with this route.

It is possible you have said this and I missed it, but does the new compressor just mount right up with the bolt holes for our stock AC unit???
That would be sweet, but alas, no. After wasting most of today, I've concluded I need to fab up 4 little "L" brackets to go from the compressor to the holes. I know that does not seem complicated, but for me to ensure I can still use my stock belt and not have it too tight or too loose, I'm spending a lot of time on making sure I mount it in the right location by use of these brackets. If you have not looked at the 4 bolts for the stock compressor, they are actually odd, 1 is off from the other 3.

Good thing I'm not in any hurry, maybe tomorrow I'll actually have the unit mounted with serpentine on and tested that there are no issues with the pulley/belt setup. Then I can move on.
maybe i missed it but are you swapping pulleys? if not how are you going to keep the belt from wanting to jump around on that pulley which looks to have 8 ribs?
maybe i missed it but are you swapping pulleys? if not how are you going to keep the belt from wanting to jump around on that pulley which looks to have 8 ribs?
He said in his first post that the pulley is actually 10 rib, but that he would discuss that more later. So.. Patience... But I do believe that the ribs themselves will prevent the belt from jumping when combined with the tension of the belt. I also think that having the adjustment of the 4 extra ribs will make it easier to align the pulley for the belt.
On my york system,i used a pressure switch that was 90-120 and used a regulator for my arb but found out its less hassle to run a switch thats 85-105 psi just like the arb likes.I should have done that in the first place.The york stays at good psi while filling tires even at idle.A high idle would be even better.What i have thought about but not made yet is a fast idle solenoid from a carburetor.Make a bracket and have it bump up the idle when needed.
Its on my wanna do list!!
Looks like your having fun with this Mark.
maybe i missed it but are you swapping pulleys? if not how are you going to keep the belt from wanting to jump around on that pulley which looks to have 8 ribs?
I discussed that with them and they assured me there would be no jumping around as long as the pulley is square, the 6 ribs will keep it in whatever track area works best, and the benefit of the 10 rib was that it allows me to move the compressor forward/back to align better as I am trying to bolt it down in the stock bracket.
On my york system,i used a pressure switch that was 90-120 and used a regulator for my arb but found out its less hassle to run a switch thats 85-105 psi just like the arb likes.I should have done that in the first place.The york stays at good psi while filling tires even at idle.A high idle would be even better.What i have thought about but not made yet is a fast idle solenoid from a carburetor.Make a bracket and have it bump up the idle when needed.
Its on my wanna do list!!
Looks like your having fun with this Mark.
Totally am. A bit expensive, but a present to myself. I'm going to have a port for the ARB but leave that one regulated and plugged for now. I've had great luck with the ARB compressor so for now, the ARB won't come into the equation. Right now it's all about great flow for tire airup plus tools. I'm actually hoping I can get a long hose, buy or rent a crown mold stapler and use this unit to run it for a winter house project.:toothless
Here's a fun Schematic to visualize my setup vs. like a york:

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It is.
REALLY?? A Ford forum and you post diagrams with jeep keys in it?:goodfinge

Jk

My dd is a jeep, atleast till the bronco is running.:rockon


BTW, who makes this kit?
It is no kit. I've done research and am piecing it together. The main component is the compressor and I bought that from 4x4 connection (Iron pig offroad) which I think is focal to toyota, but are branching out. they are in virginia. The diagram is not mine, it's from someone else's supermotors site modified to show the difference between a typical york "oiled" setup and what I am doing.

Tomorrow I should have updates with the compressor mounted. It's been slow going, mainly because anyone that has been on this site awhile knows what a suck azz PITA fabber I am. If I had to do this for a living I'd be dead. I overthink everything, and then think some more. Meanwhile nothing is getting done. Then when I finally get around to deciding on best path forward I worry about all the "what ifs". The compressor is mounted in the stock location at this point, I'm just redoing 1 mount. And it's ALMOST where I was wanting it. But that darn ALMOST meant that the stock belt was NOT going to happen. I was belt shopping today for something apx. 1"-2" longer. It looks like a belt that is 1.75" longer is the trick at this point since the tensioner seems to sit where I want. Belt is from several apps. but the one I used was from an 88-89 chevy G30 van with 454 and AC.

I'm glad I'm in no hurry going into winter....It's been 4 days, I have yet to finalize the install of the compressor, and have yet to do ANYTHING else as far as mounting the tank, running lines, electrical switch, etc.

oh, well, it will be cool from a stockish looking perspective if anyone is wanting to ditch the AC and use the spot for OBA, this will definitely be of interest.
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That is a nice compressor. I've been looking at that one for the past couple of years at Extreme Outback. It's a nice combo of output and compactness. Looking forward to more of this project :thumbup
I looked on Iron Pig and did not see this compressor. Maybe its just not in stock right now or something. I did see it at extreme outback though. I like the idea of this setup. I also saw a mount on extreme outback that consisted of a steel plate with two tubes that go from the front tabs to the rear so that it only take s two long bolts to mount the compressor. I will be watching this thread closely and if my AC system goes south I may do this.
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I looked on Iron Pig and did not see this compressor. Maybe its just not in stock right now or something. I did see it at extreme outback though. I like the idea of this setup. I also saw a mount on extreme outback that consisted of a steel plate with two tubes that go from the front tabs to the rear so that it only take s two long bolts to mount the compressor. I will be watching this thread closely and if my AC system goes south I may do this.

with iron pig, go to their 4x4 connection website, they are "reaching out" beyond what they offered. Also, I liked IP/4x4 connection because they would just sell me the compressor. Another site was stating their custom mount was mandatory and it was a whopping $700+ add.

Anyway, compressor is mounted now, so here are more pics. Like I said earlier I had to move to a 103.75" belt vs. stock 102". So I want to order a goodyear gatorback in this length since I had to buy a autozone duralast for now.
















I'm actually happy I mounted it a little higher, as the fan is going to push a lot of air under the compressor. This unit needs cooling since it only relies on pumped in grease every 4 hours or 4 months of "4wd use" and they state redline cv2 synthetic only.

My next projects are the air intake from the factory intake....this again allows cooler outside air to be forced in vs. common air filter under the hood. Also ready to hook up the manifold back in the corner by the brake cylinder. and then the line to the tank and mounting the tank above the driveshaft. And finally the little in cab switch to engage the compressor and we're done. This week you should see updates on the air intake and manifiold.
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