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86 Eddie Bauer edition, 302 speed density, AOD, 4” pro comp lift- 33” tires
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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve been doing research for almost 2 weeks straight now on regearing my bronco. I’ve decided I’m going with 4.56 gearing. Now I’m trying to decide on what kit to buy or if I should just pick and choose from different brands. So far I’ve looked at the revolution kit that states it has everything needed to complete the swap for the rear 8.8 as well as the front D44. However I didn’t see it state anywhere that it comes with a new carrier group for the front. I’ve found a good carrier from Yukon for like $70 so that’s not a problem. BUT THEN I found a super cheap kit on amazon (I can hear you laughing already), it’s made by national drivetrain (never heard of them) and they also state they have everything except bearings and races.
So at this point I’m deciding between
• Revolution kit = $632.34 + $78.02 for Yukon carrier
VS
• Amazon special = $340.90 + $78.02 + bearings and races $?
OR do I piece together the front and rear stuff separately and try to get a better deal? What did you guys choose to do? If you have done this let me know what kit you chose or which parts you pieced together so I can do the same and feel confident in not screwing it up. When I had my old Jeep I never got around to regearing so this is new territory for me, but I’ve had enough of not being able to go the speed limit :LOL:
 

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1994 EB 5.8 E4od with manual T case.
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I'm going 4.56 as well and have decided to go with ford racing rear gears as you can set up ford gears using the master housing dimension sheet.
For the front gears I'm going to use the JBG Dana 44 kit with new Spicer carrier.
 

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86 Eddie Bauer edition, 302 speed density, AOD, 4” pro comp lift- 33” tires
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I'm going 4.56 as well and have decided to go with ford racing rear gears as you can set up ford gears using the master housing dimension sheet.
For the front gears I'm going to use the JBG Dana 44 kit with new Spicer carrier.
Awesome, what about will the total cost for parts be?
 

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1994 EB 5.8 E4od with manual T case.
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The front end is about 500, that includes R+P with new carrier and all new bearings and shims.

The rear ring and pinion is about 180 and the master install kit is 160 I believe, that's from the ford performance website.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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The kits from bronco graveyard have everything you need. But they are front or rear "kits" so you'll have to get both. They also have good deals if you buy a traction aid too.

For instance, a d60 front 5.38 gear kit, with detroit locker, gears, and all bearings, shims, etc for 930 bucks. The gears and locker bought separate are more than that, then you still have to buy bearings and a new carrier (for a d44 anyways).

Its also a good time to redo all the wheel bearings, ball joints, u-joints, and bushings.
 
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86 Eddie Bauer edition, 302 speed density, AOD, 4” pro comp lift- 33” tires
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Discussion Starter #6
The kits from bronco graveyard have everything you need. But they are front or rear "kits" so you'll have to get both. They also have good deals if you buy a traction aid too.

For instance, a d60 front 5.38 gear kit, with detroit locker, gears, and all bearings, shims, etc for 930 bucks. The gears and locker bought separate are more than that, then you still have to buy bearings and a new carrier (for a d44 anyways).

Its also a good time to redo all the wheel bearings, ball joints, u-joints, and bushings.
I was looking at some of bronco graveyards stuff, having to get everything separate turned me off of that. Mainly I feel like I can’t accidentally get the wrong things if everything is together. As much as it makes sense to get a locker of some kind at the same time as gears, I kind of set a budget of $1000 and that doesn’t allow for a locker. Which I can get away with for now because I don’t get to go off-roading as much as I’d like anymore. Thanks for your input!
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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86 Eddie Bauer edition, 302 speed density, AOD, 4” pro comp lift- 33” tires
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Discussion Starter #8
What do you mean separate? They have full regear kits, just each axle is separate.

D44

D44 TTB Rebuild Kit Open Standard Diff Bearings & Gear - Broncograveyard.com

8.8
8.8 Inch Open DIff Rear End Rebuild Kit - Broncograveyard.com

Neither come with the wheel bearings or other axle maintenance items. Not aware of any gear kit that does.
No that’s what I mean, the kit I’m looking at has the stuff for both axles and says it comes with shims and other install stuff
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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But probably not anything for the axle itself. Just the stuff needed to regear. Which is the same as what the JBG kits have. But they include quality Timken bearings and spicer seals. And a new carrier with spider gears and center pin.

The amazon kit doesnt include any bearings, so how is that even considered a kit?

Not replacing the axle u-joints, ball joints, spindle bearings, and wheel bearings while its apart is, in my eyes, a waste of time, effort, and money. Because I would guess you have the factory joints at least in the axle shafts. At the least, you should research and do the C-clip eliminator mod for the front axle. That way when you do have to replace the axle joints, you wont have to remove the third member.

If $1000 is all you you have for the project, I suggest saving 500 more and doing it all at the same time.
 

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86 Eddie Bauer edition, 302 speed density, AOD, 4” pro comp lift- 33” tires
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Discussion Starter #10
@BigBlue 94
•I’ll look into JBG some more
•It’s a kit just because it has both front and rear ring and pinion plus some shims and a few other miscellaneous things. If you read my original post I broke the costs down and left a spot for new bearings and things. I’m only considering the amazon special because it’s so cheap (cheap for a reason though) however I’m leaning towards the other kit
•I’ll look into the C clip eliminator
•Are you talking about doing a locker at the same time? I haven’t seen any that are only $500. For $500 I would definitely buy it. I’ve placed the $1000 cap because I need to replace the tires as well (they are old and cracking in between treads) so I’ll be spending a couple grand and naturally am trying to save some money. Once again I appreciate your input!
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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I don't know the cost differences between an 8.8 and 9", but I was able to shop around and find two yukon grizzly lockers, two motive 4.56 gear sets, and gear install kits for my D44 and 9" for about $1200 total last year. I did a looooot of shopping around and went back and forth a lot on what to go with.
 

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86 Eddie Bauer edition, 302 speed density, AOD, 4” pro comp lift- 33” tires
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Discussion Starter #12
I don't know the cost differences between an 8.8 and 9", but I was able to shop around and find two yukon grizzly lockers, two motive 4.56 gear sets, and gear install kits for my D44 and 9" for about $1200 total last year. I did a looooot of shopping around and went back and forth a lot on what to go with.
Oh dang that seems pretty damn good. I’ve been looking around constantly and its honestly making me a little dizzy trying to keep it all straight. Maybe I’ll see if I can throw in at least a rear locker while I’m at it, I’d hate to miss an opportunity
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Oh dang that seems pretty damn good. I’ve been looking around constantly and its honestly making me a little dizzy trying to keep it all straight. Maybe I’ll see if I can throw in at least a rear locker while I’m at it, I’d hate to miss an opportunity
The biggest reason I went with a locker in the front was the cost difference between getting the locker and getting a new open carrier that I'd need for the 4.56 gear set anyway. It was like a couple hundred dollars difference so I said eff it why not.

I would just see what's available for your particular axles and check out who all sells those items and then spend a lot of time looking for a deal on said part numbers. That's what I did for my lockers specifically. I checked out every locker made for my 9" and for my D44 and found the lowest price on each one then put together several combinations of "packages" and then pulled the trigger on the one I figured would work best for my setup, driving style, and wallet.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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@BigBlue 94
•I’ll look into JBG some more
•It’s a kit just because it has both front and rear ring and pinion plus some shims and a few other miscellaneous things. If you read my original post I broke the costs down and left a spot for new bearings and things. I’m only considering the amazon special because it’s so cheap (cheap for a reason though) however I’m leaning towards the other kit
•I’ll look into the C clip eliminator
•Are you talking about doing a locker at the same time? I haven’t seen any that are only $500. For $500 I would definitely buy it. I’ve placed the $1000 cap because I need to replace the tires as well (they are old and cracking in between treads) so I’ll be spending a couple grand and naturally am trying to save some money. Once again I appreciate your input!
On the amazon "kit"... You said it yourself that you feel nervous not getting it all together, but you still would have to find the correct bearings. 8 of them. And yes i read the original post but you didnt actually price the bearings.

No, the "extra 500" was so you could afford to do the other maintenance items I suggested you do while its all torn apart. And things always cost more in the end because you forget little things that add up quickly.

The C-clip mod involves tack welding a cap thats already present on the stub shaft coming out the passenger side of the front diff and inserting a spring into the slip joint
 

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I got Bronco Graveyard's kits, minus the carrier and gears, as I got those separately.
For the most part, they're good, complete kits. The biggest issue I ran into with both their front and rear kits is that they lacked a variety of shims. Way too many thick shims with not enough thin shims for fine tuning. However, combined with the shims I pulled out of the old setup, I was able to get the job done.
I think if I did it again, I'd get those kits, and then get a shim kit for each axle just to have more of a variety.

Otherwise, the JBG kits are the way to go.

As long as you double check that your front and rear gears are matched, there's really no reason to go out of your way to get a full "regear kit" that includes both the fronts and the rears. That really limits your kit options and most of them don't work that way.

Much better to get a quality kit for each one.


On the C-Clip eliminator, this was easy to do, as I did it on mine.
Yukon makes the correct spring: https://www.yukongear.com/productdetails.aspx?ProdID=11108

Weld the cap as BigBlue mentioned:



 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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Semi related, my Bronco has an assbackwards setup I wouldn't reccomend to anyone. Front locker, rear true trac. I'd rather have a spooled rear and an open front for driveability. That being said, it has plenty of traction, just understeers constantly when in 4wd. I'd prefer 4.88 gears with my 35s for the record, and I do 90% highway driving.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Semi related, my Bronco has an assbackwards setup I wouldn't reccomend to anyone. Front locker, rear true trac. I'd rather have a spooled rear and an open front for driveability. That being said, it has plenty of traction, just understeers constantly when in 4wd. I'd prefer 4.88 gears with my 35s for the record, and I do 90% highway driving.
Thats actually a perfect setup for a trail rig that sees street use. The TT is great in 2wd for slick roads. But hit the trails and you want the front axle to pull you, more so than the rear pushing.

With overdrive, 4.88s are great with 35s.
Without, and you'll be screaming in the rpms at highway speeds. Mine has no OD and 4.56s turning 37s. Its about perfect. At 75 mph im at 3000 rpms.
 
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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs.
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Thats actually a perfect setup for a trail rig that sees street use. The TT is great in 2wd for slick roads. But hit the trails and you want the front axle to pull you, more so than the rear pushing.

With overdrive, 4.88s are great with 35s.
Without, and you'll be screaming in the rpms at highway speeds. Mine has no OD and 4.56s turning 37s. Its about perfect. At 75 mph im at 3000 rpms.

I could see that for a desert trail rig, or something that doesn't see snow. The front end pushes around corners/understeers badly, This setup would be a nightmare on icy roads or in snow. I'd rather have both ends locked, or true trac at both ends, or open diff up front. That's coming from a guy that drives in FRONT of the plow trucks at 25-30 mph sideways, you should have seen the tacomas sliding out that tried to pass me. :ROFLMAO:
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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I could see that for a desert trail rig, or something that doesn't see snow. The front end pushes around corners/understeers badly, This setup would be a nightmare on icy roads or in snow. I'd rather have both ends locked, or true trac at both ends, or open diff up front. That's coming from a guy that drives in FRONT of the plow trucks at 25-30 mph sideways, you should have seen the tacomas sliding out that tried to pass me. :ROFLMAO:
Thats partly because lockers in general are more dangerous in the snow and rain. The open differential is safest in the slick stuff. Thats why its standard equipment on passenger vehicles. Well and its cheaper. The open design allows any excess torque to move to the wheel with less traction, generally keeping you from spinning out.

Like tires, there is no perfect choice that is optimal in every single situation. You'll always have to compromise somewhere.
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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I'm going 4.56 as well and have decided to go with ford racing rear gears as you can set up ford gears using the master housing dimension sheet.
Before Ford racing started making their gears elsewhere, you could utilize the same shim set up you removed, because they were all machined the same. Now...well...
 
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