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Premium Member
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moser sucked
yukon sucked
Warns were the best at the time. but Randy's bought out Warn's axle devision, so who knows now.
Alloy USA's were good with no question warrentee, they were sold out and I think are not ten factory?

dunno who else is out there.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #4
RCV's are nice but at $1300 they are a little out of my price range.

This is what i found out about Ten Factory

It is kinda of confusing, Motive gear bought Alloy Usa's stock and Ron Stobaugh part owner of alloy has moved to motive. Omix bought alloy/precision gear so the alloy name is dead. the Ten factory name is the new name in quality axle shafts w/ a ten year warranty. Same quality specs that alloy had now with a great big company to support it.
I got a qoute of $525 Shipped with spicer joints and full circle clips from a vendor on Pirate, which is more in my price range, but not sure of there quality.
 

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FSB's Dirty Jersian
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3,578 Posts
moser sucked
yukon sucked
Warns were the best at the time. but Randy's bought out Warn's axle devision, so who knows now.
Alloy USA's were good with no question warrentee, they were sold out and I think are not ten factory?

dunno who else is out there.
Yea I hear bad things ever since randy's took them over. Over on PBB everyone had some bad things to say. Not to say others weren't happy, but there were a lot of pucker faced customers there for awhile.

I was completely content with superior alloys, I used (and still have them) in my Dana 44HD. I ran 40 hawgs too, not a single problem with them. I switched over to a dana 60 recently but with superior's alloy shafts and ctm joints, you'd have a pretty tough 44.

http://www.superioraxlegear.com/tub...?products_page=5&deep=true&controller=catalog
 

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Local # 40 Boilermakers
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15,785 Posts
Your probably right, they might come at some point.
That is the path I am going to take, I built what I have because of what I had at the time. After you figure $200 in the brakes, $200 for the new warn hubs, $100 in u-joint & ball joints and say another $100-$150 in misc seals, bearings, lugs & lugnuts. I should have went that route to begin with ;)
 

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2,896 Posts
I don't remember the exact price but I think it was $1200 for my Warn shafts 7 or 8 years ago. Those shafts with another $350ish on CTM U-joints solved all axle/U-joint problems I had in the past and I havn't broken one since. So for $1500 something I had a good set up that hasn't failed me. Moral of the story...spend that money on a Dana 60 instead.
 

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Ford Hoarder
I own a bunch of Broncos 10 or so . Lol
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1,500 Posts
i still have a set of the warns hardly used :haha

i still say RCV's are the best route still cheaper than a dana 60 because a set of axles for thems a super lots higher.
and a dana 60 ford is not really that easy for everyone to find.
i am going with the RCV's my self. but i running big tires {42's} on the one thats get'en them to . so i will test them out when i get them in . :thumbup
 

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FSB's Dirty Jersian
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3,578 Posts
You guys have to remember too, if he switches to a dana 60 front, he now runs the issue of changing over to conventional leaf, or grinding and welding the set up for coils. On top of that, he would have to purchase a panhard bar, necessary brackets for the dana 60, then would have to 8-lug the rear, buy new rims, all new u-joints (because the joints in the driveshafts certainly will not be direct fitment to 1-tons)

Moreover, if he wanted to do it correctly (meaning instead of buying conversion joints) he would have to change out the flanges or yokes that he has to accept a 1-ton driveshaft that would accept full 1-ton u-joints.

He is on 37's. A set of premium alloy axles are by far the simplest route to go. I do agree a dana 60 for pure out of the box strength and a stronger platform, it really pisses me off when people say "Oh go 1-ton! buy a dana 60!" and they don't think about all the work that has to go into it. Just something for you guys to think about...
 

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ate lug
88 + 96 broncos, 96 F250
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8,816 Posts
I think i will be fine with a 44 with the wheeling that i do, just looking for a little added insurance.

So what do you guys thik about Superior since Warn shafts are no longer around.
With your wheelin style, i dont think you need a D60. I wouldnt want to beat up that truck either!
Steve ran regular old Yukons in his with a detroit & 38s and didnt break his, so i think youd be fine.

Superiors are good, but a buddy went thru hell when he warrantied his before theyd actually give him a new shaft.

Warns are still around, but they are now called Yukons "Extreme" line. Im told they are even better now.
 

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Roller rockers are gay
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19,191 Posts
You guys have to remember too, if he switches to a dana 60 front, he now runs the issue of changing over to conventional leaf, or grinding and welding the set up for coils. On top of that, he would have to purchase a panhard bar, necessary brackets for the dana 60, then would have to 8-lug the rear, buy new rims, all new u-joints (because the joints in the driveshafts certainly will not be direct fitment to 1-tons)

Moreover, if he wanted to do it correctly (meaning instead of buying conversion joints) he would have to change out the flanges or yokes that he has to accept a 1-ton driveshaft that would accept full 1-ton u-joints.

He is on 37's. A set of premium alloy axles are by far the simplest route to go. I do agree a dana 60 for pure out of the box strength and a stronger platform, it really pisses me off when people say "Oh go 1-ton! buy a dana 60!" and they don't think about all the work that has to go into it. Just something for you guys to think about...
This. for the win.
 

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Ford Hoarder
I own a bunch of Broncos 10 or so . Lol
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1,500 Posts
You guys have to remember too, if he switches to a dana 60 front, he now runs the issue of changing over to conventional leaf, or grinding and welding the set up for coils. On top of that, he would have to purchase a panhard bar, necessary brackets for the dana 60, then would have to 8-lug the rear, buy new rims, all new u-joints (because the joints in the driveshafts certainly will not be direct fitment to 1-tons)

Moreover, if he wanted to do it correctly (meaning instead of buying conversion joints) he would have to change out the flanges or yokes that he has to accept a 1-ton driveshaft that would accept full 1-ton u-joints.

He is on 37's. A set of premium alloy axles are by far the simplest route to go. I do agree a dana 60 for pure out of the box strength and a stronger platform, it really pisses me off when people say "Oh go 1-ton! buy a dana 60!" and they don't think about all the work that has to go into it. Just something for you guys to think about...
this is what i was getting at to on the dana 60 to . a super build dana 44 with RCV's is still cheaper and easyer than a 60
 

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FSB's Dirty Jersian
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3,578 Posts
this is what i was getting at to on the dana 60 to . a super build dana 44 with RCV's is still cheaper and easyer than a 60
I didn't mean you, and I wasn't singling anyone out specifically. Just tired of seeing people post "GO ONE TONS! OMGZ LARGE TIRES MUST GO DANA 60!"

Practical. I wish more people knew that word.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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17,026 Posts
With your wheelin style, i dont think you need a D60. I wouldnt want to beat up that truck either!
Steve ran regular old Yukons in his with a detroit & 38s and didnt break his, so i think youd be fine.

Superiors are good, but a buddy went thru hell when he warrantied his before theyd actually give him a new shaft.

Warns are still around, but they are now called Yukons "Extreme" line. Im told they are even better now.
yea, and these are through JBG as I recall.

I would not go the route of buying alloy shafts and then putting in spicer Ujoints, regardless of full circle C clips. The weak link should be those joints. If you are going to put money into alloy shafts you should hook them up to alloy joints.

I have the Yukon's and with what I've done have had no issue. And I know the Ujoints won't be the weak link, it would probably be the quality of the shaft. Then again, as Mike stated his warn stuff was around $1200 with the CTM's. My yukon stuff was $675 with the Yukon alloy superjoints.
 
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