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I need to replace my original 1996 302/5.0L connected to the Mazda 5 speed OD manual transmission. I cannot afford $8000 for a Ford manufactured engine. I'm seeing crate engines for $3000 to $4000 but they all come with a carburetor. Is a rebuild better? If you have gone through an engine replacement/rebuild please share your experience. Seems a carbureted engine would be much more simple to maintain. Thank you for helping.
 

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1989 Bronco XLT 351W with C6, manual locking hubs. 6” suspension lift with 35” Cooper tires
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I need to replace my original 1996 302/5.0L connected to the Mazda 5 speed OD manual transmission. I cannot afford $8000 for a Ford manufactured engine. I'm seeing crate engines for $3000 to $4000 but they all come with a carburetor. Is a rebuild better? If you have gone through an engine replacement/rebuild please share your experience. Seems a carbureted engine would be much more simple to maintain. Thank you for helping.
I would 100% go EFI because I feel it would be much easier to maintain and find people to work on it. Working on a carbureted engine seems to be a “dying art”.


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1993 F150 XLT 302 Auto 4x4 2.5" Lift on 32's
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While I'm lucky to know one of the best carb guys in the United States, to keep it simple for most people if your truck is equipped with EFI just go EFI. With this said ...there are many days I want to go carb. imo simpler, easy to fix or replace, though just like it was said - playing with a carb is a thing of the past. Yet I like them...a lot.

I like carbs don't get me wrong just for some applications they r not preferred.

Ford does offer EFI engines so does Jegs, American Muscle, and Summit.

Stay away from Jasper! Had to many issues with them and still going through them to the point of buying new parts. Way to many issues with them and I even said I'll try them one more time. That one more time was my last.
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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You could always get a Holley sniper etc for it.


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You can go to a Ford dealer and get a Ford remanufactured 5.0 long block for your truck for about $3000. There are also many other companies that make a direct replacement long block for them. You will just have to clean all the parts off of your original motor and transfer them over. Make sure you rebuild or get new injectors. Check all the wiring on the engine harness to make sure there are no cuts in the wiring. Replace any broken injector connectors. Replace all vacuum lines with silicone or rubber lines. You might get a new vacuum canister or check your original for leaks. Get a new EGR pipe and EGR valve. Get the one piece Blue Felpro rubber gaskets. Get ALL NEW BOLTS! Use ARP where you can otherwise ACE has nice bolts.Most ARP kits wont work, especially the oil pan. For oil pan bolts you can probably clean the originals and reuse them. The bronco has a metal girdle on the oil pan so the bolts are a bit longer than on a mustang. The ARP kits are all geared towards the mustang. Make sure you have a GOOD torque wrench and torque everything properly. Get a new water pump and use the HELP water pump studs and ACE bolts for the rest, get all new hoses. Flush out your radiator and consider replacing it. New IAC Valve, NEW motorcraft TPS, and you should be good to go.
 

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Something about creb didn't add up when I was looking into them for my other bronco. People here haven't had issues not I hadn't seen enough to buy from them. Someone reputable advised me to look elsewhere.
 

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1986 Bronco, 351w, Edelbrock aluminum top end, Holley 600, 4" BDS lift, 35" Maxxis Razr's, stuff..
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Something about creb didn't add up when I was looking into them for my other bronco. People here haven't had issues not I hadn't seen enough to buy from them. Someone reputable advised me to look elsewhere.
Well that's about as vague as one can be - especially for an accountant! ;)
 

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Well that's about as vague as one can be - especially for an accountant! ;)
Hey if anyone asks me something at work, my answer is "it depends." Drives people nuts. For real though I won't say who to start a pissing match, but one of the best people on cam advice said he didn't like their machining. I looked into them soon a 408 and it didn't add up. Creb also said due to the way the do their machining I wouldn't be able to run a high volume oil pump. They were super friendly and listened to what I wanted.
 

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95 Bronco, 351W, E4OD, 4.56 gears, 35x12.50x15 Patagonia MTs. 94 Bronco 5.0/E4OD/1356/3.50 gears.
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They're superior when you throw away the carb and convert it to EFI. :D As a guy that's tuned carburetors very well since the mid 2000's, I hate them and will avoid them at all costs. Unreliable, frequently requiring rebuilds and float seats, I wouldn't reccomend them to anyone. EFI however has been dead reliable and much faster to diagnose for me, no need to remove parts, just bring out the meter.

I also vote for a ford rebuild, that's what's in my F350 and it runs very well.
 

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Im about to start reassembling my complete 94 5.0 block rebuild. If you're keeping it stock, stick with EFI. Everyone says a "carbed engine is easier to maintain" until they have carb issues....you want to learn the epitome of frustration, try tuning and or troubleshooting a double barrel properly lol its like someone else said, its a dying art. Plus they're inneficient, not reliable at all and dont adapt as you drive etc The 89 to 96 EFI system is really not that complex to maintain at all. Its simple efficient and you get better performance at better mileage. If you're in the USA you could easily rebuild a stock 5l with decent parts, new pistons and a .03 overbore with machine shop costs for $2k easily. Im up in Canada where we have shit options and terrible ecomony and I'm at about $2200 to completey rebuild this one with an overbore and new crankshaft etc machine costs included.
Plus its fucking fun! Lol
You dont even need any specialty tools to be honest. Just an engine stand and space to lay everything out.
 

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Depends on what YOU want and need, what you want to spend, and how much work you are doing yourself.
Look for a local machine shop - the kind that has been in business for a long time. Ford 5.0 roller long blocks are a dime a dozen and many shops will likely already have a good core they can build for you. If you're staying close to stock - this is likely your best bet unless you have experience in assembling your own short / block and or long block.

EFI vs Carb:

I grew up with carbs. I learned to tweak and rebuild Q-Jets when everyone was tossing them for Holley carbs. Nothing compares to the sound of a Q-Jet when the secondaries open up. Carburetors work great. If you know how to tweak them. Carburetors need to be tuned for the exact engine / application they are installed on just like EFI - if they aren't they will never run even close to their best.

That being said - the Ford EFI system is pretty simply and reliable. Replace old vacuum hoses / lines. The AIR / Thermactor system is outdated and is actually pretty much useless if you have a newer cat converter installed. Clean / rebuild the injectors (it's not complicated or expensive).

Aftermarket EFIs work great. But they too need tweaking and tuning. And they aren't cheap.

If the goal is to get the truck running and driving dependably again - just replace the engine with a stock equivalent. If you are on a budget - look for a low mileage used engine. They are out there. Bronco, F150, F250 etc etc - these engines are everywhere. It only gets fun when you are looking for a roller 351 engine.

If you aren't comfortable with doing the work yourself, look around / ask about a local shop. Most times - when you find a shop that does a good amount of engine replacements, they will have their own preferred rebuilder / source for engines.
 

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$4K will get you a nice roller 351W for EFI and leave enough left over to buy an Edelbrock Performer EFI intake and some shorty headers.

I think for a '96 with 5 speed, the 302 to 351 swap should be pretty easy with minimal investment.

Converting to Carb would be more brain wracking, IMO.
 

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I need to replace my original 1996 302/5.0L connected to the Mazda 5 speed OD manual transmission. I cannot afford $8000 for a Ford manufactured engine. I'm seeing crate engines for $3000 to $4000 but they all come with a carburetor. Is a rebuild better? If you have gone through an engine replacement/rebuild please share your experience. Seems a carbureted engine would be much more simple to maintain. Thank you for helping.
My advice would be to find a good local engine shop and get them to quote you a re-build (check references). A lot of crate motors come with cheap parts and limited, basic machining to keep the price down. Just had my 460 rebuilt (for a 78 Bronco build) and it pulled 550 ft-lb. and 445 HP at 4,200 RPM on the dyno - today as a matter of fact.

Cost me $4,300 for the work (bored 0.040 over to remove deep scratches in the cylinder bores, decking the block, very mild head work on stock D3VE heads) and parts including new: pistons, cam (cam was shot), lifters, pushrods, valve springs, distributor, condenser, wires, and intake and water pump.

Runs an older Holley 675 double pump carb. Starts on the first rotation every time (on the dyno anyway). Much higher quality parts and machine work than you could get from a crate motor.

My experience is crate motors can be hit and miss on quality depending on what they started with.

Hope this helps.
 

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From my experience, the vast majority of trouble people have with stock Ford EFI is due to lack of maintenance or faulty electrical components and connections. You have to realize that no one ever designed a vehicle to last 30 or 40 years. None of the electronics are supposed to last that long. Capacitors especially have a short life in the harsh environment of a vehicle. If you want to use the stock efi, make sure you have your old electronics rebuilt. Most troubles come from the EEC and in 92 to 96 models, the psom. For years, I scoured the junkyard of central Florida looking for parts. One thing I have found is the majority of vehicles in the junkyard have bad electronics and was probably the reason they are there.

So, start by checking all wiring and connectors. Replace or restore if corroded. Then have the module electrics rebuilt.
 

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1982 Bronco XLT Lariat, 351W, C6; 1989 Bronco XLT, 302, AOD
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From my experience, the vast majority of trouble people have with stock Ford EFI is due to lack of maintenance or faulty electrical components and connections. You have to realize that no one ever designed a vehicle to last 30 or 40 years. None of the electronics are supposed to last that long. Capacitors especially have a short life in the harsh environment of a vehicle. If you want to use the stock efi, make sure you have your old electronics rebuilt. Most troubles come from the EEC and in 92 to 96 models, the psom. For years, I scoured the junkyard of central Florida looking for parts. One thing I have found is the majority of vehicles in the junkyard have bad electronics and was probably the reason they are there.

So, start by checking all wiring and connectors. Replace or restore if corroded. Then have the module electrics rebuilt.
Remember, when replacing electrical parts, any electrical parts, the computers in these trucks prefer Motorcraft brand replacements. I don't know what it is about them, but I have replaced many sensors, and even alternators, with aftermarket brand stuff, and the codes kept coming back. Replaced them again with Motorcraft stuff and no more codes. Maybe its just me, but I buy Motorcraft "everything", including a battery, when I can get them.

TB
 
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