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Discussion Starter #1
I’ve had issues with the front end of my rig shaking uncontrollably at 65 MPH and above. Determined we needed to change out the ball joints.

The PO put 33s on but didn’t change the gears. It’s very apparent when climbing hills and it just doesn’t have the umph. Since we had to take the axles out to change out the ball joints I figured this would be a good time to re-gear.

And... if we are changing out the gears, may as well throw in a locker. I’ve assembled the new carrier with the new gears and decided to add an Lock Right auto locker. Got a Ford Torsen for the back.
A86151F5-E0CF-4645-BD9A-2E168D8E64F1.jpeg
 

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I applaud your commitment. Changing ball joints to gears is a "BIT" of a stretch. But, it is reasonable to me. :)

Gears will improve the "oomph" you are missing. For 33s, I'd recommend 4.10s or even 4.56s if you have an overdrive transmission. I also seriously applaud your decision for traction aiding differentials. I personally chose a Detroit Locker rear and a True Trac front. To me those options are the best of all possible worlds combined. But, your choices should work just fine too. More traction is always a good thing.

I realize I didn't offer anything helpful, but hope this helps anyway.

tim
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I applaud your commitment. Changing ball joints to gears is a "BIT" of a stretch. But, it is reasonable to me. :)

Gears will improve the "oomph" you are missing. For 33s, I'd recommend 4.10s or even 4.56s if you have an overdrive transmission. I also seriously applaud your decision for traction aiding differentials. I personally chose a Detroit Locker rear and a True Trac front. To me those options are the best of all possible worlds combined. But, your choices should work just fine too. More traction is always a good thing.

I realize I didn't offer anything helpful, but hope this helps anyway.

tim
Thanks for the input. Putting in 4.10’s for all around driving. We won’t do anything too crazy in the bronco, but would like the capability to do some more difficult mountain trails without relying on a tow strap.
 

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you realize that going to 4.10 or higher in the front requires a new carrier due to the carrier break of the D44? should have gotten a true locker instead of a lunchbox locker

4.10 will be the norm for people to put in. i would have gone 4.56 myself. but its better than nothing
 

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Discussion Starter #5
you realize that going to 4.10 or higher in the front requires a new carrier due to the carrier break of the D44? should have gotten a true locker instead of a lunchbox locker

4.10 will be the norm for people to put in. i would have gone 4.56 myself. but its better than nothing
Yeah, I got a new carrier for this setup. I don’t expect to do anything too crazy, so I wasn’t going to drop a lot on the front locker. I’m curious to see how it will perform.
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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...One question we are trying to find out is how the correct way to put the tone ring on this Ford Torsen?
Please elaborate
 

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it is one of the factory ford differentials for newer 8.8" axle trucks? they might have has a wheel speed sensor on each wheel instead of the carrier like the older trucks do. this is an issue that i am gonna have to deal with putting a factory 10.5" elocker in a 10.25" axle. i figured the easiest way would be grinding a notch for the tab to go into carrier. i saw where soemone ground the tab off and then tac welded the ring on but that seems kinda dumb than jsut grinding the notch
 

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Discussion Starter #10
it is one of the factory ford differentials for newer 8.8" axle trucks? they might have has a wheel speed sensor on each wheel instead of the carrier like the older trucks do. this is an issue that i am gonna have to deal with putting a factory 10.5" elocker in a 10.25" axle. i figured the easiest way would be grinding a notch for the tab to go into carrier. i saw where soemone ground the tab off and then tac welded the ring on but that seems kinda dumb than jsut grinding the notch
It’s the stock carrier. We ground off the tab and it seems to have a good press fit. Just wanted to see if we were on the right track. Thanks for the reply.
 

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Interested. Not for future use as I am happy with my Detroit Locker/True trac combination, but instead how you both resolve the issue. That is one of the "fun" aspects of our hobby. Good luck to both of you.

tim
 

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1996 EB w/5.8 TOO much lift, 44" Mudders & 5:43-5:38's
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If it doesn't work out, you may have to go to a driveshaft mounted tone ring like I did with my 9"

152315
 

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Discussion Starter #14
stock from what tho? have a part number? that doesnt look like the Ford Racing torsen carrier. hoping its 31 spline because alot of the newer 8.8 alxes are different
Maybe I’m misunderstanding the question. Here is the carrier we pulled out with the ring. The part number for the Torsen is M-4204-T31.
 

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85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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Wouldnt putting the tone ring on a carrier not meant for one, push the ring gear in to the center too far?

Or is there a space for one, just no anti-rotation tab?
 

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tone ring goes around the carrier, not between carrier and ring gear. it jsut has a tab that goes into a notch in the carrier



however just looking at new tone rings, alot of them dont seem to come with the tab anymore. probably for the reason that carriers that dont have the notch.
JBG 8.8 toner ring doesnt have the tab apparently


some places still sell it with the tab. heres a random place that does
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Unfortunately I didn’t get any pictures of the last few days. We ended up lining up the tone ring to the sensor and put a few tack welds just in case. Got it all squared away and it’s all installed.

Now onto the front... Maybe I didn’t do enough research, but the Lock Right auto locker is not designed for this application. Lucked out in the beginning by building the auto locker before applying the new gear rings. Due to the thickness of the 4.10 gears, it would have been impossible to put in the shaft after installing the gear. That being said, because there is a c-clip on one side, it’s impossible to put it back due to the issue mentioned above (can’t get the shaft out now).



What we ended up doing was using a valve spring from an eco-boost engine and put into the shaft under the boot. Once the spindle is tightened down, the spring compression keeps it seated in the carrier.

Had it aligned this morning and got to take it for a spin. Had a light dusting of snow this morning, and I had zero issues with sliding. The new gear ratio gives it the pep I’ve been looking for as well!

Lot of work but a fun project - glad I did it. Will send updates once I get to take it off road.
0113AECB-23E5-45F0-A933-452FA85304BF.jpeg
 

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Discussion Starter #19
154317

Got the opportunity to take the bronco up by Central City a few weeks ago. A lot more snow than I anticipated, but then again, I’ve never been up here in February...

Was able to climb some snow packed/slushy hills to test out the front locker. Had zero issues climbing (my wife’s CJ wasn’t so lucky...) and was surprised at the traction.

I did take a shortcut in H2 and the front end started sinking in some soft snow. Stopped, put it into 4H, backed out a bit, and continued on with non issues.

Wasnt the hardest test but I’m pretty happy with the upgrades so far.
 
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