BIG TIRES little rear = No No
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Wouldnt that have been avoided with some simple reinforcement?
I think maybe a 1" bridge would have made teh difference there.
So the bad side would be that the person would lose 1" of ground clearence.
Thanks for sharin though sweetheart :goodfinge :goodfinge
I think maybe a 1" bridge would have made teh difference there.
So the bad side would be that the person would lose 1" of ground clearence.
Thanks for sharin though sweetheart :goodfinge :goodfinge
I know I could be wrong but here is what i am thinking.
I dont have the axle right in front of me so please bare with me a little.
I was thinking that you would take some half inch thick steel something really strong.
(I would leave that up to the welder what kind of metal, but something damn strong.)
then sorta cut out a template from the end of the axle (allowing enough room for the wheel of course) and then following it along to the diff then cut it down to about a half inch until you get to the other side of the diff. Theh of course match it up to the end of the other side of the axle.
Once you have your template made out of cardboard, then trace it onto the sheet of 1/2 inch steel.
Then take a plasma cutter and cut out your trace.
You basicly create a long bridge that is welded to the housing of the axle, welded long way so you have the strength. From left to right all the way, in one piece.
Make a solid bead on both sides of the bridge.
Then around where the shock mounts are on each side you would run a steel reinforcement over the top and run a bridge over the top of the housing and pumkin as well. Left to right.
It is really hard to explain with out using Autocad or something but hopefully someday I will put my hypothisys to the test.
I will make something on MS Paint tomorrow and see what you metal guys think.
Using basic physics if you hit a rock, or other hard object instead of that portion of the axle taking 100% of the stress, the stress would be distributed evenly across the entire bridge, thus eliminating the possibility of a single 2, 3, 4 or even 6 inch piece of steel axle housing bending on you.
I think it would have to be created equal on top as well as on bottom, or teh physics may not work as formulated.
Like I said before you would lose an inch of ground clearance on the tube, and a half inch under the pumpkin.
If you can find (or are) a master welder you may be able to create a bolt down lip onto the diff cover for both top and bottom.
This would create an awesome skid plate that would not go anywhere unless the welds failed on the bridge.
You would have two extra bolts holding the diff cover onto the diff as well. 1 on top, and 1 on bottom.
When you need to remove the diff cover, you would remove all the bolts and then grab the cover from the left and right side and pull it past the bridge bolt housing structure things and straight out. Kind of in a groove, so that when you put the cover back on, it would align back in the groove, then the diff cover would have something to rest on while you are rebolting it back on.
Get it?
Done.
I think it would be cheaper than swapping to another axle, but would create a really sturdy housing and diff structure.
If only you guys could see the image in my head.
We really need to work out the whole Matrix idea like on the movie.
I dont have the axle right in front of me so please bare with me a little.
I was thinking that you would take some half inch thick steel something really strong.
(I would leave that up to the welder what kind of metal, but something damn strong.)
then sorta cut out a template from the end of the axle (allowing enough room for the wheel of course) and then following it along to the diff then cut it down to about a half inch until you get to the other side of the diff. Theh of course match it up to the end of the other side of the axle.
Once you have your template made out of cardboard, then trace it onto the sheet of 1/2 inch steel.
Then take a plasma cutter and cut out your trace.
You basicly create a long bridge that is welded to the housing of the axle, welded long way so you have the strength. From left to right all the way, in one piece.
Make a solid bead on both sides of the bridge.
Then around where the shock mounts are on each side you would run a steel reinforcement over the top and run a bridge over the top of the housing and pumkin as well. Left to right.
It is really hard to explain with out using Autocad or something but hopefully someday I will put my hypothisys to the test.
I will make something on MS Paint tomorrow and see what you metal guys think.
Using basic physics if you hit a rock, or other hard object instead of that portion of the axle taking 100% of the stress, the stress would be distributed evenly across the entire bridge, thus eliminating the possibility of a single 2, 3, 4 or even 6 inch piece of steel axle housing bending on you.
I think it would have to be created equal on top as well as on bottom, or teh physics may not work as formulated.
Like I said before you would lose an inch of ground clearance on the tube, and a half inch under the pumpkin.
If you can find (or are) a master welder you may be able to create a bolt down lip onto the diff cover for both top and bottom.
This would create an awesome skid plate that would not go anywhere unless the welds failed on the bridge.
You would have two extra bolts holding the diff cover onto the diff as well. 1 on top, and 1 on bottom.
When you need to remove the diff cover, you would remove all the bolts and then grab the cover from the left and right side and pull it past the bridge bolt housing structure things and straight out. Kind of in a groove, so that when you put the cover back on, it would align back in the groove, then the diff cover would have something to rest on while you are rebolting it back on.
Get it?
Done.
I think it would be cheaper than swapping to another axle, but would create a really sturdy housing and diff structure.
If only you guys could see the image in my head.
We really need to work out the whole Matrix idea like on the movie.
Beerman said:I cant, my diff prefers paper not plastic.
I still cant figure out how to hold 5 pints of diff lube in a paper lunch bag
that plastic would do absolutely nothing harmful .. it would be dissolved in a matter of minutes getting chewed up in the gears :shrug
it's not the engine you know
Don, i really do it simply for the debate of it.
I dont think it w3ould be any fun if everyone agreed that the axle was POS and that was that.
I honestly know and feel that the 14 bolt is the best "practicle" rear axle for what we all do. (Its no mog or rockwell but certainly isnt practicle now is it) I like 10.25 as well. If I went 1 ton that is really my only option.
I just try to understand the flaws, and improve them.
After my upcoming project I might just autocad a design to do exactly what I am thinking about, and possibly have it cut out and built just for testing purposes.
I think if it works then a lot of people who either do not have the funds, nor the availability of a 14 bolt, or 10.25 have an option to make what is theres a lot better.
Just remember that 8.8's are a dime a dozen in the pick and pull yards, where as 1 ton axles are mighty pricy.
I think when Scott completed his 10.25 swap he spent around $2000.00 and I think he is still running 35's or 36's (IIRC)
I think that for a lot less than even $200.00 you could achieve a strong axle and run 37's (not that 10.25's couldnt) and the only weak point would be the c-clips.
Just an idea thats all. All my posts are just in good clean fun debate.
I dont think it w3ould be any fun if everyone agreed that the axle was POS and that was that.
I honestly know and feel that the 14 bolt is the best "practicle" rear axle for what we all do. (Its no mog or rockwell but certainly isnt practicle now is it) I like 10.25 as well. If I went 1 ton that is really my only option.
I just try to understand the flaws, and improve them.
After my upcoming project I might just autocad a design to do exactly what I am thinking about, and possibly have it cut out and built just for testing purposes.
I think if it works then a lot of people who either do not have the funds, nor the availability of a 14 bolt, or 10.25 have an option to make what is theres a lot better.
Just remember that 8.8's are a dime a dozen in the pick and pull yards, where as 1 ton axles are mighty pricy.
I think when Scott completed his 10.25 swap he spent around $2000.00 and I think he is still running 35's or 36's (IIRC)
I think that for a lot less than even $200.00 you could achieve a strong axle and run 37's (not that 10.25's couldnt) and the only weak point would be the c-clips.
Just an idea thats all. All my posts are just in good clean fun debate.
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7,507 Posts
thats sounds like a lot of work. you would either have to pay someone some serious $$$$ or buy the tools (even more $$$$) to make an axle that still has c clips and still isn't as strong as a $200 junkyard 14 bolt, and has parts that are way more expensive.Beerman said:
Joined
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1,999 Posts
you'll have to put the same(I still think 2k is out of line) into an 8.8 gears and bearings. and geuss what...you still have an 8.8 with weak tubes that collapse on themselves. Adding a truss to that won't solve anything, it will prolong the inevitable.Beerman said:
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