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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

1986 XLT with 140k on it from California. 351w, C6, NP209, TTB 44, Ford 9, stock 3.56 gearing.

I’ve been research lifts for my 86. I used to do some serious wheeling in my old CJ here in Maine. Most of the trails here are real tight and while I struggle with the thought of squeezing my bronco through them I also struggle with putting anything but a “real” suspension under it even though I’m not likely to do the type of wheeling I did with my CJ in it.

I’ll probably go with a hanger flip in the back since flat springs work better than those with a lot of arc in them. I know I need to be aware of axle location when doing so. Maybe a set of Seaver’s but the back is simple and cheap compared to the front.

On the front I’m still up in the air on solid vs TTB but I know the TTB will ride better but the solid is simpler and probably stronger.

I like the idea of the autofab or solo C&T beams for clearance and less torque from extend hangers.

Definitely going long arm.


If I don’t go C&T or SAS I’ll probably go ProComp due to soft spring rate and completeness of the kit although I whisk it came with a non shock option since I want to go bilstein.


The solo stage 1 with front and rear bilsteins in $2500 but involves rebuilding the front axle which is probably another few hundred bucks plus shipping and the core. Big investment and a lot of work but nice.

Autofab w/o shocks $1750 plus $400 for shocks so $2150 plus axle parts. Nice.

“Store bought” kits with rear full springs are about $2200.

Anyway, this is the start of my build thread.

I’ve got a 351 carb stock motor that’s showing its age so I may be focusing on that first depending on how it holds up.

There’s a 460 rebuilt on Craigslist in New England for $2200 https://images.craigslist.org/01616_gfLrlGDRkjh_1200x900.jpg

Hmmmmm





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Discussion Starter #3
So the answer is no - the C6 behind the 351w will not bolt up to the 460 block.

Also, it appears the working torque limit for the stock C6 is impressive at 475 but not up to the task of the claimed 545 on that 460.


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Are you dedicated to the C6? That motor sounds just like the one I just dropped in mine, but I have the ZF5. Maybe you could also look for a matching C6 that would bolt up to the 460. I don't know what your budget is, but I gotta tell ya, I love my 460. The bottom end torque is great. Pulled ditch surfers out several winters ago like I was pulling a lawn mower.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Can anyone tell me what years TTB and 9” are interchangeable? I’d like to see if I can find a set at the JY with lower gears but I’m not sure what year I can go up to. I think all the way up to 96 is the same except for anti lock stuff - is that correct?


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Can anyone tell me what years TTB and 9” are interchangeable? I’d like to see if I can find a set at the JY with lower gears but I’m not sure what year I can go up to. I think all the way up to 96 is the same except for anti lock stuff - is that correct?


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@miesk5 has a very informational write up here regarding your question, might want to connect with him. I like to think of him as a human Ford Manual. No offense Al. here is something that i have saved on my lap top, that I have copied from the site. hope it helps some what as i know your question speaks about the 9"also.

Now, here's the combined codes from '85 and '90 Bronco owner's manuals; this should cover most if not all codes out there:
REGULAR: (Regular means "open" diff in this context)
13 4.11
14 3.00
16 3.50
18 3.08
19 3.55

LIMITED SLIP:
H3 4.11
H4 3.00
H5 4.10
H6 3.50
H8 3.08
H9 3.55
 

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Yo Big,
YW!
Bronco, Rear from 85 & 90 Owner's Manuals; Note, I'll add that the axle code for some years (Maybe all ) adds a 2 after the limited slip code if the front is also limited slip. So the code "H9" is a 3.55:1 limited slip rear axle only. "H92" would be a 3.55:1 limited slip on both axles. by ElKabong (Ken, El Kabong)
Source: by Ford & Helm via Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling) at axlecode

Bronco, Rear in 76-86
Source: by Bob K at Bronco Rear Axle Codes and Ratios: Off-Road.com

Bronco Rear in 92-96
Axle Codes

L - Limited Slip Differential

C - Conventional Differential

Code Ratio

12 2.73C

16 3.73C

17 3.31C

18 3.06C

19 3.55C

24 3.54C

25 4.10C

29 3.55C

35 4.10C

39 3.55C

45 4.10C

49 3.55C

58 4.86C

65 4.10C

68 4.88C

69 3.55C

72 4.63C

73 5.13C

B5 4.10L

B9 3.55L

C5 4.10L

C9 3.55L

D5 4.10L

F5 4.10L

H5 4.10L

F8 4.88L

G8 4.88L

H7 3.31L

H8 3.08L

H9 3.55L

W5 4.00L
 

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Discussion Starter #10
These are on the way. Stainless. Very low $ but I figured I’d check them out and can alway send em’ back. Say for 87-96 but they should bolt up to my 86 as well, no?

Going to have my local guy fab up a Y pipe for me using the flow master 2:1 and cat.




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So I replied yesterday, but it didnt post i guess.

What engine are you going with?

What size tire? If going 35s, you wont find any gears in the JY
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Probably staying with the 351 and going with intake, heads, headers, and maybe a cam at some point. Would like to go to 35's at some point. I'm currently developing my list of stuff.

Engine
After some input from folks an Edlebrock Performer seems to be the way to go for intake although there are some copies out there. I'm looking at the one by Assault which is about 1/2 the price of the Eddy. Anyone have any experience with the Assault stuff? $200
https://assaultracing.com/item/1213391-sbf-351w-intake-typhoon-satin?category=8015

I'm running a Holley Street Warrior 600 right now which is fine but junk on any off camber or steep stuff off road. I'd like to upgrade to a Holley sniper although I cringe a bit moving to EFI from a carb for nostalgia sake. The Sniper gets lots of good reviews. $1000
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/sniper_4bbl_tbi_kits/sniper_efi/parts/550-510

Heads - GT40 $500

Headers and y pipe $500

Suspension
4" JBG lift - while I know the CnT are probable "better" I can't really justify spending the extra coin for what I'm going to be doing with it. $1,000
https://shop.broncograveyard.com/4-Ultra-Deluxe-w_Superunner-Extended-Radius-Arms-80-6/productinfo/33710/

Shocks
Bilstein 5100 24-185530 on the back $140
EL 26"
CL 16"

Stock EL 22"
At rest 18"
CL 14"

So with a 2-3" lift on back my EL and CL should be

EL 25" min
CL 17" max

Bilstein 5165 25-177497 on the front. $300
EL:19.200 in.
CL:11.770 in.

Stock TBD

Armor
BBM (built by me) sliders, front and rear bumpers

Belly skid - maybe that one by silver- need to decide on bassani or BBM y pipe or BBM since the skid will not work with the bassani $200

Paint
The paint on the 86 is in good condition but its starting to show some small rust spots here and there. I can chase those around for awhile but at some point it will need a freshen up. I really like the idea of bedliner everywhere. Either way, its a big ticket item. I want it to look decent, try and keep it from rotting away in the salt, and be able to run on the back roads and hold up to the alders and other pin striping trees. The bed liner will hold up well to the salt and rust and I think to the brush striping.
 

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Are you running a c6 and np208?

4.10s, 33s, and a 351/c6 is perfect. 4.56 would throw your highway rpms up around 3500 rpm. With this setup, I'm about 3000 at 75 mph. I'd run 35s with 4.10s with a c6 even, unless it was a 95% trail rig. My 85 has a non-OD np435, and I'm running 37s with 4.56 gears. It turns about 3000 rpm at 75 mph too.

You would really like extended radius arms. They give the biggest gain in flexibilty of any part of the suspension, especially paired with soft flexy springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@BigBlue 94 thanks

Yes-351w, C6, np208. I currently have stock 3.56 gears and 33’s and that does okay but the 4.10s would really help the bottom end.

So finding 3rd members for the TTB 44 and 9” in the JY is a no go?


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@BigBlue 94 thanks

Yes-351w, C6, np208. I currently have stock 3.56 gears and 33’s and that does okay but the 4.10s would really help the bottom end.

So finding 3rd members for the TTB 44 and 9” in the JY is a no go?


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Finding 4.10s or (4.09 for the 9") is possible in the JY. 4.56 is what I meant were a no-go as they are unobtainium in factory form. Unfortunately you have the 9", which wants a 4.06 (i think)front and 4.09 rear gear. That means most TTB stuff will have the wrong gears. You've got to find a truck with both, and only half ton, no d50 will have the proper ratio. However! You can use a carrier out of any 70s Ford solid d44. So you hav a range of ~'67 through at least 83.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Buying the 86

I bought the 86 through ebay from California and had it shipped here to Maine. Won it for about $5,500 and paid another $1200 or so to get it here. It was in great shape and ran strong. A little rust on the tailgate but other than that it was spotless. Good, unmolested, used rig.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Then to Now

Since I bought it I haven't done anything significant. New carb, custom flaps, tires and wheels, headlight wiring relay upgrade, fluid film, brakes, fluids, etc. I swapped in a 4 bolt box from a 97 F250, the hoses bolt right in with my non Saginaw pump by the way. It's my daily driver and I use it to chase partridge and deer around and get out into the woods as much as possible. Prior to the Bronco I had a really well built 75ish CJ with a 304 in it and I've run pretty much every hard trail in the State with it.

While I miss scaring myself on off camber trails and rocks, the Bronco will not be built for that level of off road work although I would like to be able to tackle some of the under 8 trails if the "need" arises.

I also picked up a very clean 85 on ebay, also from California but purchased in a charity auction by a dealer in Georgia who put new paint on it and put it on ebay. Got that one (tan) for $10,000 plus shipping to Maine. It is in fantastic shape and y wife drives it. We run it year round but I really cringe putting it in the salt and snow; I think next year we may pick up a second vehicle for her to use in the winter. Jus too nice to ruin it.
 

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