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Discussion Starter #1
Pulled my dipstick yesterday and it’s chocolate milk all the way to the handle. Antifreeze is down about 2/3rds of a gallon.

Gonna start looking at short and long blocks.

Creb
Mabbco
ATK
Tristar

Others?

Mabbco roller with GT40 heads and the rest of their add ons is $2700 shipped.

Creb in same configuration plus oil pan, timing changes cover, roller rockers $4000 shipped.

If I go from my 86 non roller to a 94 roller block what accessories need to be changed?

Dizzy?
Headers?
Alt bracket?
????

Mabbco non roller short block with upgrades (flat tops, RV cam, shipped $1350 PERFORMANCE Ford 5.8 351W Short Block 1983-1993 1pc. | eBay

Aluminum head kit $1000 Ford 351W 408 427 5.0 Top End Kit Aluminum Heads GT40 EFI carburetor | eBay

Intake $200 351W Ford Edelbrock Performer Intake + 1250 Felpro gaskets + Mr.G Base Gasket | eBay

$2550










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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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Oh no! That sucks man....

If it were me, I’d probably go with a non-roller cam engine and use the money saved for aluminum heads, cam, and an electronic solid state ignition from Mallory or MSD. I’d also go with an Edelbrock performer dual plane intake with an Edelbrock or Carter AFB 600-650 cfm four bbl carb with mechanical secondaries.

Sorry to hear you had this happen, man. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well its been ill for awhile. When I put my headers on last year I noticed this.
153500


I also have a lot of blow by pushing oil and sludge out the oil fill - I actually have a hose from the fill running down below the engine so its not flying all over the bay.

I just picked up that used performer off ebay for $200. I'm running a modified Holley 600 which ill use or maybe go to sniper.

For what I'm doing this Mabbco setup would be a nice upgrade from stock for very reasonable $

153501


I like the idea of MSD stuff.
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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That’s pretty good. I spent close to $3k with a scratch built 302 back in the 90s - it’s easy to get nickel and dime’d when you have machine work needed (cylinder boring, head shaving, valve work, etc) and when you have no definite plan! “I think I’ll get that too...and this!”

I was extremely happy with the Mallory ignition setup I had. Oil filled coil, mechanical advance distributor...it worked like a champ. MSD is pretty much the same I believe. Would be good to upgrade your alternator too, if you haven’t already.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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11,137 Posts
A roller block requires nothing to be swapped, except for the distributor drive gear for the roller cam. Some accessories may need modifications, due to serpentine belt vs v-belt. I would only be guessing if I said you could directly bolt all your accessories to the front. Though I imagine they will bolt up. Externally, it's the virtually the same as an 86 block, minus the fuel pump port in the timing cover. The 94 wont have that.

I suggest staying carbed, since you have a low pressure fuel system. To change to a Sniper or the like, you must upgrade to a high pressure fuel system. Instead of 7 psi, you need like 40 psi.

Stay away from the cheap chinese aluminum heads. I've read more than a few horror stories. Instead, consider a set of cast iron Cleveland heads, GT40s, or a name brand aluminum or iron like AFR, Edelbrock, Trickflow, RHS, World, etc.

Stay away from high volume or high pressure oil pumps. They can cause damage, and you dont need them.

Stay away from "RV Cams" that dont list their specifications. The cam is the single most important part of building a truly healthy engine. Even compression ratio (dynamic) varies with cam choice. This makes a difference when you are deciding on 87 or 93 octane.
 

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78 Custom 351M NP435 NP205 Sniper EFI Hedman Headers Magnaflow Muffler 4.56 Gears Grizzly lockers
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Do you have a set budget? I can't really give advice on what you're looking at as I've only had stuff done locally to me and it's always been 460 stuff, but I would plan on expecting to spend more than you planned if you planned at all. That's been my experience anyway.

This is also one of the first threads I've read on a Ford forum that didn't immediately start blasting MSD when it was mentioned. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I don’t want to spend more than I need to to get a mild increase in torque and power and something that is going to last another 200k.

Yes - I always plan on “extra” happening as well.

Here are the specs from Tristar on their performance 351w

Speed master aluminum heads
62cc 176 , intake 2.02 / exhaust 1.60

Pistons
Speed pro hyper flat top

10:1 compression

91 octane minimum

Howard’s cams lift 475 I/E
Duration 275 I/E

$3545 shipped





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Discussion Starter #10
Just pulled the trigger on these heads


Brand:AT Racing World
Part Number:FF281.1004
Part Type:Cylinder Heads
Cylinder Head Style:Assembled
Cylinder Head Material:Aluminum
Cylinder Head Finish:Natural
Combustion Chamber Volume (cc):62 cc
CNC-Machined Combustion Chamber:No
Intake Runner Volume (cc):190 cc
Exhaust Runner Volume (cc):n/a
CNC-Machined Intake Runner:No
CNC-Machined Exhaust Runner:No
Intake Port Shape:Rectangular
Intake Port Location:Standard
Exhaust Port Shape:Square
Exhaust Port Location:Standard
Spark Plug Style:Standard
Comp. Valve Job:No
Intake Valves Included:Yes
Intake Valve Diameter (in):2.050 in.
Exhaust Valves Included:Yes
Exhaust Valve Diameter (in):1.600 in.
Valve Springs Included:Yes
Maximum Valve Lift (in):0.550 in.
Outside Diameter of Outer Spring (in):1.450 in.
Damper Spring Included:Yes
Number of Springs Per Valve:Dual
Retainers Included:Yes
Retainer Material:Chromoly steel
Locks Included:Yes
Lock Style:7 degree
Valve Stem Seals Included:Yes
Valve Stem Seal Style:Positive stop
Rocker Arm Studs Included:No
Rocker Arms Included:No
Rocker Arm Nuts Included:No
Guideplates Included:No
Valve Cover Mounting Style:Perimeter Bolt
Accessory Bolt Holes Drilled:Yes
Intake Valve Angle:20 deg.
Exhaust Valve Angle:20 deg.
Valve Guides Included:Yes
Valve Guide Material:Bronze
Valve Seats Machined:Yes
Valve Seat Machine Style:3-angle
Valve Seat Material:Ductile iron
Steam Holes Drilled:No
Oiling Style:Through pushrod
Machined for O-Ring:No
Heat Crossover:No
Quantity:Sold as a pair.
Calculator Compression Calculator



And I picked this up the other day
153854


I'll likley go with the Mabbco short block with flat top pistons - just need to find out what the "RV" cam grind is. I'll probably pull the headers off and do a compression test as well - maybe I can eek a bit more out of the lower end and just address the upper for now...…...I had planned on doing gears and lockers with this $.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Current engine has a stumble when cold at idle that seem to be worsening. Giving it gas off idle it acts like it’s flooded and want to stall a bit. Feathering throttle and more gas seems to blow it out and it runs good until after idling a bit then does the same.

All the antifreeze I put in it last week is gone again.

Mayday ...... mayday .......mayday. She’s going down!

Looks ready for a transplant with some xtra zip




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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
LOL - I’ve got a 80k BTU propane that takes the edge off and a wood stove that warms it up nice but didn’t get any wood this year since I didn’t plan on any serious winter wrenching.

As far as the heads go - apparently the AT heads I bought are procomp and the procomp are actually now the speed masters ....... wait for it ....... and the speed masters are what tri star is using.

Cheers


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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
GT40 Cobra Heads
Intake 145
CC 61
I 1.85
E 1.54

GT Explorer
Intake 145
CC 64
I 1.85
E 1.54

PC Heads
Intake 190
CC 62
I 2.02
E 1.60

E-Street
Intake 170
Exhaust 60
CC 60
I 1.90
E 1.60

So if I do go with the Mabbco 351w block with flat top pistons and the PC heads above - how do I determine valve clearance and head gasket thickness etc?

Are those large I/O numbers going to hurt low end?


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Discussion Starter #17
Looks like the 2.02s don’t fit with stock pistons and the shallow chambers.

I’m also thinking the 190 or below intake runner will be more appropriate for what I’m doing and give better off idle response.

Took a look at the culprit again today - definitely worse.




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Discussion Starter #18
I was able to cancel my order on the procomps although I did find a really good series of videos on them for reference for those that might me interest.


I'm back to planning and may refocus on new gears/lockers and just run it. Ill probably just go with the Mabbco GT40 setup but we'll see.
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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11,137 Posts
You might look into the new AFR economy heads, just fyi.

I tend to shy towards the smaller runners for increased velocity. The fuel atomization is better. Low end is better. Top end does suffer slightly, but let's face it, broncos arent normally a 10 second racer.

I'm glad you didnt go with the PC heads. I dont have any trust in them.

My next Windsor build is going to be topped with factory Cleveland heads. Eventually they will hopefully be swapped out with trickflow powerport Clevelands
 
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