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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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Discussion Starter #1
After months of searching for Broncos under the 3 grand range, and going through the pains of seeing chopped and cut on Broncos ( one had a wet rag wedged in the master cylinder reservoir as a cap), I settled on one that had the motor and a list of other things replaced. This seemed to be the lesser of all the other evils I had witnessed, and a good mechanical foundation for a forever Bronco. The ignition switch was busted, so the owner wired a start button under the dash. You have to turn the switch to "start" (shuts off in run position) and pushed the button. Great. The rear window works with the key, but not the dash switch. Cool. The speedometer doesn't work. The previous owner said he bought a new transfer case with electronic speed output, although the speedometer is cable driven. I don't understand that, but great. Just great. At least the AC has new components. But it doesn't work. PO says the evaporator leaks. Fine. Drove it 2 hours home. It had sat for 2 years after the PO's wife passed away. Which explains the slight wheel vibration I felt on the 2 the drive home. Flat spots on tires. The more I look at it, the more things I find. But it's mine. Hopefully forever. Join my adventure as the list grows and hopefully shortens from time to time.
https://flic.kr/p/2j7Laaj
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
On the drive home, it gets dark, so I turn on the lights. There's no dash lights! No speedometer, so I guess I don't need it, right? At least I can hear the back 2 speakers as I drive home. Oh, yeah, the door speakers don't work. The aftermarket stereo that sits 2" out of the hole on an upward angle provides a little light and a radio station for the homeward bound drive. At least the 2 rear speakers sound good. LOL
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Bought a Bluetooth stereo and installed it a few days ago. Judging by the stereo wires, somebody knew very little about properly crimping wires. Some were crimped so hard, some of the wires were cut almost through. Looks better now. Time to move on to replacing the door speakers. OMG, the window felt has deteriorated to a sliver of rusted metal! Ordered those. Now to get the door panel off. Wait, those aren't factory screws. https://flic.kr/p/2j82nJN
 

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Not sure how good you are with electrical but it would be a good idea at this point to get yourself a quality manual. Haynes is good. you'll find a wealth of info on this site and access to pretty much every diagram imaginable..if we don't have it, it doesn't exist for the Bronco..On the plus side, all of those things should be relatively easy to get sorted out..Get the speedo and tires sorted first..

You said the PO bought a transfer case with the electronic speed output..for reference, the Broncos either had the speed output from a gear in the transfer case like the current one you have or the VSS sensor in the rear diff..

Assuming it's a manual transfer case, you should just be able to swap the tailshaft housing from your current transfer case with the speedo gear over to the new one..That is if I'm understanding the problem correctly..
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Yeah, all of the factory push fasteners and half of the panel posts are broken. I see replacement door panels in my future. I guess the screws are necessary for now. At least I figured out why the speakers didn't work. https://flic.kr/p/2j82mPm Hahaha. My new stereo sounds nice. On to the next problem. Stay tuned.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Not sure how good you are with electrical but it would be a good idea at this point to get yourself a quality manual. Haynes is good. you'll find a wealth of info on this site and access to pretty much every diagram imaginable..if we don't have it, it doesn't exist for the Bronco..On the plus side, all of those things should be relatively easy to get sorted out..Get the speedo and tires sorted first..

You said the PO bought a transfer case with the electronic speed output..for reference, the Broncos either had the speed output from a gear in the transfer case like the current one you have or the VSS sensor in the rear diff..

Assuming it's a manual transfer case, you should just be able to swap the tailshaft housing from your current transfer case with the speedo gear over to the new one..That is if I'm understanding the problem correctly..
I haven't had time to look at anything yet, but yes, I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and electrical doesn't scare me. It's an automatic, but I thought the speedometer gear drive was in the transmission tailshaft? I'll learn more thanks to guys like you! Thanks! Haynes manual is getting picked up this weekend, along with different rims. New tires to follow.
 

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.... It's an automatic, but I thought the speedometer gear drive was in the transmission tailshaft? ...
Yo,
Drive and driven gears are in transfer case tail housing.
See Gear Change in a 90 (in Xfer Case Tail Housing)
Source: by Keith L (TTB Blows, Bling-Bling)

Gears for 2WD manual trans Ford vehicles & all pre-92 4WD trucks
Source: by Ryan M

Cable Lubrication;
160474

160475

From 1989 Ford Brono Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial (also included is EVTM, Emissions (yellowish/red book cover) via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @ 1989 Service manual - Google Drive
Gave the link to you in your Introduction post.
□■□


Tailgate:
Tailgate Tech @ 1983 Ford Bronco Tailgate Tech pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net by Steve includes for example;
160476


"

tgmotorwiring.jpg | Hits: 20318 | Posted on: 12/4/08 | View Low-Res
Tailgate Motor Wiring '92-95 (other years similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

. .

All '80-96 t/g wiring runs from the dash switch (F2TZ-14529-A Motorcraft SW7071 ~$25~65) out the firewall along the frame to the rear bumper up to the L taillight and into the t/g. '80-86 have a large round 3-wire connector in the LHR taillight well; those with rear defrost also have a 1-wire connector. All years with rear defrost have a ground ring screwed to the body in the taillight well. I think '87-91 have the large round connector in front of the taillight AND a smaller round 4-wire connector inside the frame at the LHR body mount. '92-96 only have the frame connector.

Normal operation is as follows:

RAISE from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB, out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the dash switch:
Power flows thru fuse 14 thru the LB/BK wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

RAISE from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch thru the UP contacts thru the Y/R wire to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds thru the motor's internal CB out thru the R/Y wire thru the latch switch thru the T/Bk wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the Pk/LB wire thru the IP switch DOWN contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

LOWER from the key switch:
Power flows thru fuse 12 thru the BK/Wh wire thru the key switch DOWN contacts thru the T/Bk wire thru the latch switch thru the R/Y wire thru the motor's internal CB to the motor brushes, commutator, & windings; then it grounds out thru the Y/R wire thru the key switch UP contacts thru the P/LG wire thru the IP switch UP contacts to the Bk wire to the ground in the kick panel (or dash on older Broncos).

Note that in ALL cases, EVERY switch is used, and the circuit ALWAYS grounds at the same point."
Put aside day or more to go through all of his info😎
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Man, that is indeed alot if information! Great information, too!! Thanks so much!
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So my work around for the speedometer was to use a GPS and mount it on the dash or window. Turns out the cigarette lighter doesn't like anything in it, and pushed it out. So I'm using a GPS app on my phone for now. Right now I'm thinking about how it vibrates and shakes. Some of it is the tires, for sure, but there's something else. When I'm in overdrive uphill is when I notice it the most. When I push it to downshift, it goes away. I'm thinking about replacing the injectors. After sitting for 2 years, it needs it, I think. The PO's grandson replaced the fuel pump and filter, so the injectors and pressure regulator would help finish that off.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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7,877 Posts
The ignition switch was busted, so the owner wired a start button under the dash. You have to turn the switch to "start" (shuts off in run position) and pushed the button. Great. The rear window works with the key, but not the dash switch. Cool.
This sounds like an "ignition actuator" issue. Wrong key position & accessories not working are clues.

The actual switch is on top of the steering column, behind the dash. When you turn the key, the actuator does several things, including moving a rod that moves the actual switch. It's pot metal, & at this age it's common to have it break. As it fails it changes how far the ignition switch moves, so you get that "wrong position" effect.

Here's a good write up for replacing it: Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt
On my 90 I didn't have to drop the column like he did, but I'm used to working in places where I cannot see.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
This sounds like an "ignition actuator" issue. Wrong key position & accessories not working are clues.

The actual switch is on top of the steering column, behind the dash. When you turn the key, the actuator does several things, including moving a rod that moves the actual switch. It's pot metal, & at this age it's common to have it break. As it fails it changes how far the ignition switch moves, so you get that "wrong position" effect.

Here's a good write up for replacing it: Ignition Actuator Replacement on an '85 w/tilt
On my 90 I didn't have to drop the column like he did, but I'm used to working in places where I cannot see.
Thanks for that link. I figured it was the actuator, but without having ever looked at mine, I couldn't guess if it was physically broken, or a spring, or just bound up. The turn signal cam will need to be replaced while I'm in there. You have to hold the stalk manually for right turns. LOL. As the dash gear indicator also doesn't work (and the dash lights), it might be just a weekend dash and steering wheel party.
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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447 Posts
very nice addition, good project if no rust.

similiar to mine, low/no rust and a lot of work for completing and repairing.

Start a project or we move the thread over (if the admins approve).

Anyhow, the things you say sound fixable, for the dash lights, look for shot bulbs and for sure first to broken fuses.
I found a mix of missing connections, bad connected (as you say overcrimped spots) and surely broken bulbs....

rear window switch is available from Bronco Graveyard, but it may be as well broken fuse, as the tailgate lock has always 12v, and the switch only when ignition os turned on, may be as well due to the "race" start button setup ;-)

Looking forward to the next findings, after I got the 79 Bronco imported and received into Germany in March, the list added up to more than 60 items, of which I adressed the most severe ones and things I need to get it registred to being allowed driving it.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
@simrokkzz
#1 this whole thing is a project, but if it needs moving, I don't mind. I think the ignition will have to be addressed before I can start looking at other things, like the window switch, as you suggested. Love your thread, and the 79 Bronco!
 

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Premium Member
1979 Bronco Ranger XLT, 400m engine, C6 trans, D44 front with Dick Cepek manual locking hubs
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447 Posts
Moving the thread was just an idea as it reads it may be a great story bringing this nice Bronco back to good condition!!

even if ignition is not good you may start sorting other things, I don t know how good the brakes are, I this can be the easy things, which at least needs to be checked (fluid for sure).

when I got the bronco it was misfiring badly and not running well.
Accelerator membrane from carb was shot and 4 wires were either wrong on distributor or plug plus ignition was far off.
I had the shop who helped importing the Bronco sort that out, same as first oil change, as we did not know what was in there.

thanks for the compliment, even it’s just 2,5 month I learned a lot and appreciate this community a lot, very helpful, a lot of knowledge stored here.
I did a lot of trial and error but in the end it all worked apart from the new cracked windshield. But well, those things must encourage yourself to do it right next time.
Plus things you repair give you a lot of motivation.

so let’s see if and how we can support you!
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,327 Posts
Pretty solid looking! Those 87-91 brush guards are tough to find, nice score.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I'm just as pleased with my my Broncosaurus as I am with joining this forum! Everyone has been helpful and nice! Tonight I installed the window felt. The old ones were nothing but rusted metal. https://flic.kr/p/2j8RZx3 But the door panels have been taken on and off so many times, and the plastic is brittle, so the insides will not hold well. But I like knowing that they're there, as opposed to the glass maybe getting scratched. https://flic.kr/p/2j8PmBk
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
I have a cautionary tale to share: don't list your rims and tires for sale until you've had your replacements mounted, balanced, and ready to go. I did not expect the response when I listed them on Facebook. Some fellows showed up with their own impact wrench hours after I listed them. Now I have this until Thursday or Friday.
https://flic.kr/p/2ja7SaY I can't remember if I bought those Jack stands from Harbor Freight. LOL
 

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‘90 EB Full Custom build -Mega Truck Bogger
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We all love to see a resurrected bronco in the hands of passionate soul....keep up the good work and keep the stories rolling....
 
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