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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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Discussion Starter #101
That mechanism is part of the manual transfer case linkage. The "panel" above it is a makeshift block off plate to cover the missing shift mechanism on trucks equipped with electric shift transfer cases. As to why the PO screwed sheet metal in place of the stock cover (that you can get from any F-series/Bronco in any JY), I have no idea. If your truck does not have electric 4X4, you'll want to address this so that you have four wheel drive.
I suspect they deleted this, and that is why I have Warn manual locking hubs. I personally like the idea of not having to get out to lock hubs but, hey, I might have 4 wheel drive and it's low on my priority list to change. Thanks for clearing that up.
 

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I suspect they deleted this, and that is why I have Warn manual locking hubs. I personally like the idea of not having to get out to lock hubs but, hey, I might have 4 wheel drive and it's low on my priority list to change. Thanks for clearing that up.
If you don't have electric shift, then it's likely that you don't have 4X4 at all, regardless of the manual locking hubs. Based on some of the other things I've seen on this truck it is entirely possible that the TC is locked in 4X4 High, and the PO used the locking hubs as his engagement mechanism. However, it is more likely that he disabled the 4X4 in this manner for a reason. Could be one of many, but I would suspect a driveline issue in the front (think axle U-Joints) that he was too incompetent to address, or even a gear ratio change in the rear that no longer matches up with the front axle ratio. There's no telling until you can troubleshoot the issue.

For now, wrap some string around the front drive shaft and secure it. Tie off the other end to a portion of the frame somewhere in the center of the truck. Drive the truck. If the string breaks, your 4X4 is working. If the string holds the drive shaft in place and keeps it from turning, your transfer case is in 2 wheel drive, and you have a rear wheel drive truck until you replace the linkage.
 

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Clever, flomaster. Real clever. Thank you. There are a lot of great people in this forum.
Wish it was my idea, but sadly I can't take credit. Read it somewhere on this forum, I think.

By the looks of your truck, it appears that the PO may have been smoking a little more than just weed. But at least you have a handle on things, and there is PLENTY of guidance available on this forum. Stay away from getting too much advice on the Facebook forum. Seen some pretty ignorant responses there over time.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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155 Posts
Your P.O. blues make me thankful for my totally stock, well maintained rust bucket!
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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Still following along and man... I feel for ya but hang in there. These good folks will get you back on track, eventually. I'm very curious about your 4 wheel drive at this point but you obviously have a lot to deal with. Good news is... if you've got the tenacity, we've got the people and knowledge. ;)

PO should be smacked about the head and shoulders with a driveline. Good thing you saved this poor rig from his/her sorry ass.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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Discussion Starter #107
Still following along and man... I feel for ya but hang in there. These good folks will get you back on track, eventually. I'm very curious about your 4 wheel drive at this point but you obviously have a lot to deal with. Good news is... if you've got the tenacity, we've got the people and knowledge. ;)

PO should be smacked about the head and shoulders with a driveline. Good thing you saved this poor rig from his/her sorry ass.
Thanks, man. Yeah, I researched before I joined this forum. Best Bronco forum, hands down. Right now, I need to step back and drink a beer or 12. It seems that the relay for lights is for trailer lights. I don't see a relay for headlights or any lights on the rig or wiring diagram. The brown wire on the switch is shorting somewhere, causing troubles with other functions on the switch, I.E. instrument lights. I can't seem to track it down. I haven't even begun to try to figure the fuel pump sh!ttery. So, thanks to frustration, and the sound of thunder, I'm taking a beer break till tomorrow.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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I hate to add to the pile of considerations but the light switches do go bad sometimes, so don't eliminate it completely from your troubleshooting. I gave up the booze but I'll toke one up in your honor. ;)
 
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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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Discussion Starter #109
I hate to add to the pile of considerations but the light switches do go bad sometimes, so don't eliminate it completely from your troubleshooting. I gave up the booze but I'll toke one up in your honor. ;)
I started with a new switch, actually! Great minds think alike. I've determined for sure that the brown wire has a short. I'm just frustrated enough to be considering running my own new brown wire. If I could figure where all the wires go, I'd start with disconnecting sections until it didn't short anymore, then eliminate that section if I couldn't find the short.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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Discussion Starter #110
The wiring diagram shows a white with a red stripe wire that is for marker lights. I see the wire, but not where it connects to the light switch. Electrical is a butt ache.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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Discussion Starter #111
Well, I've determined that there are no white/red wires to the running lights, and there are no marker lights with said wire color. Also, after cutting the wire near the back of the frame, then cutting the wire going through the bulkhead, that the short is in the dash area. From what i can see in the wiring diagrams, the brown wire goes to the warning buzzer on the right hand side of the dash, which I had disconnected to rule out that switch. I may end up making a new brown wire that goes from the switch to the bulkhead, and to the buzzer, as cutting through and unraveling all the factory sticky tape to find this short is sure to be more destructive than constructive. I'll run the wiring in a temporary fashion to test my theory later.
 

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'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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You might want to consider getting a proper Ford manual for your year rig. Paperbacks cost a pretty penny but digital CD_ROM's can be had for $25-$30 bucks, I believe. Sure makes some of the wiring stuff easier to finger out.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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Discussion Starter #113
You might want to consider getting a proper Ford manual for your year rig. Paperbacks cost a pretty penny but digital CD_ROM's can be had for $25-$30 bucks, I believe. Sure makes some of the wiring stuff easier to finger out.
Nothing like a true shop manual, for sure! I have one for my Sportster. The Haynes is pretty generic and leaves a lot of specific info out. I will look into that. I still have to figure out the fuel pump wiring. The PO's blue wire that energized the fuel pump with the ignition keyed splices into the factory wire towards the back of the Bronco. The fuel pump relay is a lot closer. He could've done it with a much shorter wire, for cryin out loud.
 

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1989 Eddie Bauer 5.0
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Discussion Starter #115
Still curious about the 4 wheel drive.
Gonna have to be patient,then. I need it to go down the road more than I need it to go down a dirt road. Some brown wire, solder, and heat shrink bypassed wherever the short was in the taillights. So now I have working lights! Now I'm trying to figure the fuel pump situation. Started at the relay. Getting 12v when keyed on at the relay. I wasn't getting 12v on the yellow wire, however. Unfortunately, I figured out why. It involved solving another head scratcher. These:
https://flic.kr/p/2jqTgS9 3 orange wires with 20a fuses, one of which was missing a fuse.
https://flic.kr/p/2jqRZja Yep, that missing fuse is the fuel pump 12v. Apparently, the PO decided the factory fuse links were inferior, or replaceable by these links.
 

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There is a lot more wire on that solenoid than there should be. Not sure why, but the crack pipe you found might be an indicator. If I recall correctly, the fuel pump relay doesn't get its power from the starter solenoid.

Man, if you don't already have one you need to hit up Miesk ( @miesk5 ) for a wiring diagram for that thing. No way he doesn't have one. Seems to me that if you put all that wiring back the way it's supposed to be, a lot of things might magically start working again. Problem is, you're not going to know what goes where without a reference.

It appears to me that you're going through these repairs in a very methodical manner. Keep it up, and keep us posted!
 

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Yo Dude,
Inspect relay sockets for corrosion, etc.
Following from 1989 Bronco/Truck
EVTM, Emissions (yellowish/red book cover) & Pre-Delivery Manuals, Partial via mrnewland1 in Google Drive @
1989 Service manual - Google Drive
Slow scrolling, so download for faster viewing and to seee table of contents.
164412



164411

164413
164415
 

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Yo,
The EVTM ia an authorized copy of Ford's EVTM.
Suggest you download it
 
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