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OK, I think ( I know it is a dangerous thing to do) I'm talking about the Vacuum Reservoir, if not please tell me what it is. It look like a black Coffee Can and is by the passenger side fender area. I had worked on the upper water hose and distributor area and broke the lines going to that can. I am the third owner and even though I have had it 7+ years this is the first time dealing with these lines. The factory lines are very hard and brittle ( witch explains why they are so broken). One is red, one is black. Someone ( one of the past two owners) fixed breaks in this line by patching at lest 15 times that I see, on the part I have ( the part that plugs into the canister. So I need to reconnect the red hose and the black hose. I am going to pull all the broken and patched parts off and replace with new vacuum line. I found the red line running parallel on the left side of the engine near the bottom of the valve cover. But where might I find the broken end of the black line in my engine compartment?
I have a 1988 with the 5.8 Windsor and C6 trany.
I thank you all once again for your kind help and assistance.
 

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yo,
also, see the Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) Decal;
Contains Vacuum Diagram & Calibration Parts List for 88 & UP.
On-Line for Free at Ford.
Click "Quick Guides" in left panel;
Scroll to & CLICK VECI Labels "Provides Vehicle Emission Control Information (VECI) and a related calibration parts list."
Enter applicable info (need to know your Calibration number from your B-pillar sticker).
Vacuum Diagram is the same as the one on the core support or hood or air filter cover.
Suggest Right Clicking this Hot Link & Open in New Window
Source: by Ford @ motorcraftservice.com

As an Example, one diagram for CAL # 8-64E-R00
http://www.motorcraftservice.com/pubs/auxf/~WC/USENIE/1858/E8AEAGA.gif

Vacuum Line Acronyms & Color Codes;

EMISSION: Red = Main vacuum;
Green = EGR function;
Orange = Heat control Valve (exhaust & intake) (AKA heat riser but more complex);
Yellow = from the TAD Solenoid (driver's side Forward Solenoid) to the TAD (Diverter) Valve located at the rear of the Intake Manifold (Distributor Advance in Carbureted Engines);
White = EGR vacuum (source);
Black = Mainly used for the Evaporative emissions control;
Black = Thermactor ACV or Diverter valve;
Blue = Throttle Kicker control;
Pink = from the TAB Solenoid (driver's side rear solenoid) to the bottom of the Thermactor Air Bypass Valve (TAB or BPV/AIR Bypass (AIRB) valve);

ACV (Air Control Valve) is the TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter) Valve (AIR Bypass (AIRB) and AIR Diverter (AIRD) valve combinations);
MAN VAC is Manifold Vacuum;
FPR is Fuel Pressure Regulator;
EGR is Exhaust Gas Re-circulation Valve
SOL V: Thermactor Air Diverter (TAD) Solenoid (SOL V) (AIRD) & Thermactor Air Bypass (TAB) Solenoid;
EVR is EGR Vacuum Regulator;
VRESER is the Vacuum Reservoir Can (Tank);
V REST on later years is Vapor Valve (Roll-Over @ Gas tank);
V REST on earlier years such as 78/79 & SEABRONC's 83 is a Vacuum Restictor/Delay Valve, it restricts vacuum for a certain amount of time, on most engines a vacuum line from the carburetor base runs to a T & then to V REST to the distributor;
Carbon Can is Carbon Canister (Charcoal Canister, Vapor Canister, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Canister);
MAP is Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor;
AIR BPV is the AIR Bypass (AIRB) Valve, also called the TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) Valve;
CPRV is Canister Purge Solenoid Valve/ Canister Purge Solenoid (CANP);
VCKV is Vacuum Check Valve;
CAT is catalytic converter;
ENG is engine;
PCV is Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve

by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck), Seabronc (Rosie, Fred W), Seattle FSB & miesk5
 

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Did a can on mine... came out great...especially after calling the dealer and hearing what the price was if they could get it ...
 

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Did a can on mine... came out great...especially after calling the dealer and hearing what the price was if they could get it ...
What do you mean when you say "Did a can on mine"? Do you mean you made your own? What did you make it out of, and how?
 

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yo Dave!
Fabrication
Source: by SigEpBlue (Steve) at http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131448
I've got a piece of Schedule 40 PVC with caps on it, painted black, that I'm using. Took about five minutes to make, holes and gluing included. Looks like a damn pipe bomb strapped to the fender liner. I should've painted it red and put "TNT" on it in yellow letters.
All ya have to do is pick out a piece of Schedule 40 PVC from Lowes, Home Desperate, local hardware, etc., two end caps for it, and the PVC cement and activator (usually come together). You'll need some black RTV, too (black RTV is more resistant to oil, which can occur in the vacuum system in small amounts, since it's connected to the intake manifold). Chop the pipe to whatever length you want with a hacksaw, then use a hole saw to cut a hole in one of the caps (2 5/8 [2.625] inches, IIRC). Prime the ends of the pipe and the insides of the caps with the PVC primer, wait a minute, then coat the same parts with cement. Push the caps on QUICK, and hold it together for about 30 seconds. That's all it needs to dry.

Now to the old part. Pull the strap bracket off that's on the bottom of the can off, keeping it straight so you can reuse it. Sometimes it's easier to remove the two nuts on the tire side of the fender liner, pull the sucker out, and have at it then. Using a drill, metal shears, whatever ya got handy, cut the metal surrounding the plastic part on the end with the vacuum fittings. It'll eventually fall out; there might be a plastic ring squeezing the fitting to the can's end to compress an O-ring for an air tight seal. Rough the hole you made in the end cap, so it's not shiny (mild sandpaper works great); this is so the RTV will stick. Using black RTV, coat the edges of the fitting where it will contact the new piece, and also coat the edges of the hole in the pipe cap. It needs to be thick enough to not fail under high vacuum, and to hold the fitting in place. Stick it in place. You probably want to somehow prop the whole thing upright so that the vacuum fitting doesn't slide out of place. Wait a few hours for the RTV to cure. Paint the whole thing your favorite color. Test the reservoir and check valve by applying hand-pump vacuum to the port that goes to the intake (red line), while capping the other. It should hold ~22 inHg for over a minute. You'll know pretty quickly if there's a significant leak.

Use some 5-inch (I think?) hose clamps to hold the pipe to the strap clamp. Snug it up, put the vacuum fitting on, good to go!

--
and by yoomooman
so anyways guys i realized i didnt post the pics of my fix for this problem, just went out and snaped a couple, its a bushs baked beans can with the original top RTVd and screwed on, works like a charm and looks fairly decent too

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i207/pumpman1/can1.jpg
 

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yo Dave,
yw.. thank to Sig too!

If you have a pick n pull close by look at later MY plastic tanks & other makes tanks too,
 

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What do you mean when you say "Did a can on mine"? Do you mean you made your own? What did you make it out of, and how?
IIRC I used a baked bean can...cleaned it all out, painted it black. cut the top off the old can and was able to re-use the "fittings" off the old one, put it on my new can, just like new :thumbup
 
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