Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

2 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

Looking for some advice: I believe the transmission pump failed in my e40d. While I was driving engine temps came up a bit higher than normal (to the L in NORMAL on the gauge), stopped for a quick break and noticed red fluid leaking. A second later most of the transmission fluid dropped out from between the bell housing and the block. I put it in 1st gear and headed down the hill immediately. About a mile later all the fluid was gone and 1st gear slipped.

Any tips or advice for repairing it? Everywhere I have called has quoted me 2500-3000 for a full rebuild. I'm sure there is a best way to do it and a budget way which is a gamble of longevity. Unfortunately, I need the budget approach. Time is of the essence, any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
14,817 Posts
You blew the front seal out of the trans somehow. Saw it happen to a buddy in my driveway. He pulled in smoking so told him to shut it down. Not a minute later all the fluid rushed out the bellhousing. His fluid was brown. Yours being red is a good sign of the trans being okay.

I cant remember how the e4od pump is set up, so it may have blown too.

Budget option is to find one in a JY. Locally, they are about $140, after taxes and fees. But you dont know if it works either. A manual trans is easy to test. Not so much with an automatic.

Otherwise, maybe look for "crate" replacement transmissions from companies like Jasper or your local Napa, etc.

Either way, its gotta come out of the truck.

82 Posts
If you are able, drop the transmission and take a look. I rebuilt mine this past summer. It really isn't that bad to rebuild these yourself. Transmission Bench has videos on Youtube that will walk you through it -
. As BigBlue stated, most likely it is a pump to torque converter seal that failed. Until you drop the tranny, you won't know why. If it was shifting fine before, chances are you won't need a full rebuild, just a new seal and maybe a bushing. However, half the work is just getting the tranny out and back in. Rebuilding isn't that tough. You can buy a rebuild kit and save yourself a bunch of money following along with the videos I posted above. I spent about $1500 this summer, but that was for a new low stall torque converter, rebuild kit, a couple of tools, and some upgraded parts. Way better than $2500 for a standard rebuild.
  • Like
Reactions: BigBlue 94

Premium Member
93 XLT 347, GT40 Heads, Bassani headers/exhaust, E4OD
1,544 Posts
What year E4OD? Ford had a program of continuous improvement and the later models had quite a few upgrades - I just went through this on a recent rebuild of a ‘93.

Hopefully the fix is as easy as suggested, but if it does require a rebuild; $2,500-$3,000 is about the going price depending on what needs updating.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Super Moderator
27,400 Posts
Yo Kthor.
"Fluid leakage from the pump will flow down the back of the converter housing. Leakage may be from loose or missing pump bolts, torn or damaged pump-to-case gasket and/or a worn pump bushing." by Ford


ItemPart NumberDescription
17902Converter Assembly
287650-S2Converter Drain Plug
37L323Front Pump Support Seal
47A248Front Pump Seal Assembly
57D441Front Pump Square Cut O.D. Seal
6N805260-SBolt and Washer Assembly
87A136Pump Gasket
97A020Fluid Level Indicator
107A228Fluid Filler Tube Assembly
11391308-SFiller Tube O-Ring
127N463Short Fluid Inlet Tube Assembly
147034Vent Assembly
157D273Fluid Tube Inlet Connector
167D174Converter Drain Back Check Valve Assembly — Rear
177086Extension Housing Gasket
187A039Extension Housing (4x2)
197052Extension Housing Seal
207A039Extension Housing (4x4)
217H183Extension Housing Plug
227B498Manual Control Lever Oil Seal
237G391Solenoid Valve Body Assembly
247A191Transmission Pan Gasket
257A194Transmission Pan (4x2)

See Pump Replacement @




To save your time and and our's for better responses, please fill out your Signature with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
From the navigation, near the upper right-hand corner, click on your avatar and then select “Account Settings” from the drop down menu.

From your “Account Settings” page you will then see more navigation option of the left side. Select “Signature”.

Now you can simply enter your signature information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum faqs @
Includes for example:
How To Upload Images To Posts & How to Use Search
See more tips!

Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links) @
... Includes such as, How do I fix my back window?
Free registration for some wiring diagrams (86 through 96) and Technical Service Bulletins, (80 through 96) with Recalls, same as by Ford @ BBB Industries- Premium Alternators, Starters, Power Steering Products | TSB's & Wiring Diagrams

➡ Try to find time to participate and VOTE in our Full-Size of the Month (F.O.T.M.) & Full-Size of the Year (F.O.T.Y.) Contests @
F.O.T.M. Contests will be held in JANUARY, MARCH, MAY, JULY & SEPTEMBER. Each month in-between will be used for nominating contestants to run in the following Month.
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes. They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!
Then get ready for the Full-Size of the Year (F.O.T.Y.)⚠


'91 5.0 E4OD, 6" long-arm lift, shackle-flip, 35" Procomp M/Ts, 4.56 gears & lockers
406 Posts
You've got "budget approach" and "time is of the essence." I think you need to decide which of those two is more important to you. I went through the same thing on mine about two years ago, but I didn't have any time concerns. For me, it was all about a) budget; and b) longevity. Those two considerations led me to rebuild it myself. I saved some good $$$ doing it myself, and was able to upgrade the hard parts.

If your primary concern is budget, then an unknown JY unit is your best bet, but who knows if it'll work (as others have said). You'd hate to swap them only to have the "new" (JY) unit die in the first 100 miles or so. Most reman companies are pretty spendy, especially if you want to start upgrading parts.

If your primary concern is getting it fixed quick, you're looking at a trans shop. I found them as cheap as $1,200 or so with me pulling it and just dropping the unit off. Of course, it took me half a day just to drop it.

If you can have it out of commission for a few days and dont mind investing in some tools, you actually can rebuild an e4od. I got a master rebuild kit for under $300 with steels, frictions, bushings, seals, check balls, etc. I picked up an ATSG manual for about $30 (best investment for rebuilding it). I watched some Youtube videos. I got a transgo shift kit. I invested in a harbor freight transmission jack (that e4OD is heavy), and I picked up upgraded hard parts off ebay. All-in was probably $600. It took me some time, but got it repaired, but it's pretty much bullet-proof at this point. If you can take it out of commission for a few days that you can work on it, and don't mind getting it dirty, I think this is a good way to go.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts