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Discussion Starter #1
I figure they arent available seperatly but i need help. I need the upper sleeve/washer for the front cab mount for my truck. here is a pic for reference:







I seen LMC has em but it looks like a washer only. Somethings i would let slide but i wanna have the sleeve ebcause it is a body mount and is critical item. i also seen JBG has em, but im kind of in a pinch and waiting for parts from jbg can take a while...a part number or anything would help. I cant find anything ford terminology specific online.
 

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This is what you need. http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/fd/full.aspx?Page=22

Ill # 12 (part # 40-0671) IS A WASHER...but that is the washer that goes on top of the body to keep the bolt from pulling through. YOU NEED Ill# 13 (part # 40-2012). That is the metal and the rubber bushing. From your pics I see that you are installing poly bushings...so you will not need the rubber that is with this piece...no way to get it through LMC without the rubber on it. But thats the part you need....
 

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yo, good find KH!

Some other info for posterity;
by Steve83
Body Mounts for 1994 Bronco ('80-96 similar; F-series cab mounts similar)
IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

The rear bolts (view V) are 7/16"x14(NC) 6.5" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with large integral washer.
The 6 identical bolts are 7/16"x14(NC) 3.75" long threaded 2.5" with a 5/8" head with small integral washer.
The front bolts (view Z) are metric (no other details).

Note that the necked portion of the upper sleeve (part of the upper absorber) is designed to lock onto the lower sleeve (flared assembly nut) to hold the rubber in place on the frame on the assembly line. But it funnels dirt & water in around the 2 parts & the bolt threads, usually rust-welding them together. So the longer they're soaked with penetrating oil before disassembly, the more likely they are to come apart.

Once the bolt is backed out a few turns, spray more penetrant down into the upper sleeve to rinse the rust off the threads, and use a hammer & drift on the bolt head to separate the sleeves.

The core support mount (views U & Z) is different, and the bolt threads into it from below. It's virtually impossible to separate them, or even to unscrew the bolt. They usually have to be cut apart and replaced.

======
BM Diagrams
by Ford @ http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/CatalogResults.aspx?y=1993&m=Ford&mo=F-150#Search
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks fellas, i looked over it again and on JBG and came to that conclusion its one part (rubber/sleeve). Oh well, gotta do what ya gotta do!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Little update but the driver side, same bushing, same piece is just as bad. Gotta love it! Also managed to get the rad support bolts out w/o cutting the sleeves but ruined both bolts...at least those are cheap! LOL
 

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yo,

While you're there, look @ diff on core support, between pass & driver's side; see how the pass side is built like a neat little sqaure pool so that it traps water? clean it up..prime ( I now have gone back to Rust-Oleum® Rust Reformer & Rusty Metal Primer ("...For maximum protection, top coat with Rust-Oleum finishes")

Also;
Bracket, for Core Support Mounts; "... agree with the others that you need to replace the rad core support along with the body mount bushings. You may discover after removing those items that the bottom frame mounts for the bushings are also rusted out, exp the hole in the center of them. Those are riveted on but worthy of replacing while you're doing the rest. Although, by the pics of the severe rust, you may have similar issues with the rest of the frame/ body mounts..."
Source: by justshootme84 (Randy Z, Casual Mudder) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=177864

Replacement in a 95
Source: by Fronabarger (BRONCONUT) at http://fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=136707&page=3
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Funny u mentioned the frame mounts. They look to be in great shape, even have the hex pattern still there. Same goes for the body where the bushing sits. *shrug* my rad support is still in good shape, suprisingly since every other Ford i worked on needed one. Must have been my self-rust proofing engine bay option. (bad blow by, soaked the engine bay and surroundings).
 

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Wrenching for a Livin'
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jeffs bronco graveyard sells all those parts too, i think.

I went to the junkyard and was able to rob enough from different f150s and one bronco to get a decent useable set. I think i only used the bottoms with the nut made into it. For the top i just used a large washer. Put locktite on the bolts and torqued them to spec.(too tight and the bushing mushs out BAD) Recheck later...they loosen up pretty quick
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i was wondering about the locktite. i seen the factory used red.
 

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I am in the process of replacing all of mine in my bronco. I took the bottom piece with the nut welded on...and drilled it out to accept a 1/2" bolt. The originals are 7/16" I believe. I replaced all of the body mount bolts with grade 8 1/2" bolts. Cost me about $50 from fastenal for all the bolts, washers and nuts. I got nylock nuts so I don't have to worry too much about them backing off. Re-torquing them over and over would suck because you'd have to remove the flooring trim and flooring each time. Would be cheaper for you because I needed 10 bolts total for the bronco. Just an idea since you are already there. Torquing to specs is recommended, but with the poly's you shouldn't have to worry about "squishing" them. Just my opinion...for what it is worth.
 

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Must have been my self-rust proofing engine bay option. (bad blow by, soaked the engine bay and surroundings).
yo Optika1 illushun.
LOL. I wouldn't be surprised by that! Since we bought the 96 new, I used canned RUST-OLEUM® INDUSTRIAL red primer (formerly called Stops Rust® Industrial Enamel Primer) and top coat...

safari, so good!
 
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