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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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Discussion Starter #1
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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
I am trying to figure out what all this will require to fix. I need to take at least 1 more picture for you, it requires getting underneath it and I don't feel like getting covered in gravel dust right now. When I first looked at the truck, I thought I could probably just hang a new quarter on it. I went to put my tailgate down and discovered just how off the post is. I didn't see the gap in the top and the way it is kicked out until I took these pictures to post on here. Do we have any bronco bodyfolk on here?
 

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Yo Harry,
As you are aware, we'll need more pics.
Snapl pics at both side of rear sill (crossmember,, looking for rust damage) and B pillar (looking for rust damage)
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
That should cover all rust and damage I think
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Have the frame checked, unless you want to measure them, I’d be surprised with the buckle behind the door if the frame wasn’t a little off.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Have the frame checked, unless you want to measure them, I’d be surprised with the buckle behind the door if the frame wasn’t a little off.
What would I measure? Corner to corner of the frame rails to see if they are square? I have been all around underneath it to see if anything had moved. The only spot where I was concerned with the frame is the 3rd picture in post 4 and I don't believe that is part of the frame.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Cross measure matching bolts, bolt holes, and corner to corner. Use a metric ruler (more accurate) pulled tight with a competent enough helper that the tape is in the exact same spot on every bolt, we usually use dead center on the bolt or hole (loose nuts and bolts in hand will help with open frame holes) write it down and measure both directions as in you and your helper trade bolts, not ends of the tape. This is where measure twice comes in handy, just don’t cut once.
 

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After verifying no frame damage, it might be worthwhile to go with the fiberglass quarter panels. That thing is beat up and pretty rusty. Not sure if the replacement tail gates are good quality or not. Check to make sure there is no roof rust, see if the gutters are leaking, rip out the inside and look at all the metal in there too. Good chance your floors are shot.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
After verifying no frame damage, it might be worthwhile to go with the fiberglass quarter panels. That thing is beat up and pretty rusty. Not sure if the replacement tail gates are good quality or not. Check to make sure there is no roof rust, see if the gutters are leaking, rip out the inside and look at all the metal in there too. Good chance your floors are shot.
My floors and most everything else is actually pretty rust free. The places where there is rust are common rusting places for these. I have a sand blaster that is plenty adequate for what I will be doing. I am going to take the tailgate apart and take the skin off of it. Then I will sandblast the inside of it and por-15 the entire inside of it after I put the new skin on. I will do the inside of the new quarter as well. I haven't seen the fiberglass panels. I'm not against them, I'm just not familiar with fiberglass. Obviously you don't spot weld them back on, so do you screw them or mold them in with more fiberglass?

My main concern on this is that rear post. Right now, my tailgate won't open because it overlaps with the corner of the body as seen in the pictures from the first post. I have a porta power, stud gun, and slide hammer. I feel like I probably have everything I need to do this, I just don't know really how to go about it.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE: My frame is fine. I had 3 friends come over last night. We measured in teams and did the entire frame 4 times switching partners. She is square and even. I have found a guy that will sandblast and paint my rolling chassis for $300.

As far as I am concerned, what rust I have is a non-issue. I know how to deal with rust, I don't know how to straighten the back corner out to make it right.
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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Discussion Starter #12
Well, my interior and floors WERE rust free. After the storms this morning with the roof off, that might change. I guess the Bronco is like the motorcycles and I will have to get used to checking the weather every day :rolleyes:
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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with all the rust you have in that quarter, you're already going to be doing a lot of cutting..my .02 cents, think a new quarter would be the best way to go..
 
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with all the rust you have in that quarter, you're already going to be doing a lot of cutting..my .02 cents, think a new quarter would be the best way to go..
This.

And it's probably less work than trying to repair all the separate issues separately.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Use the porta power with longer 4X6’s to spread the push on the good side, push the pillar out just enough to get the tailgate open so you can see what it looks like in the inside corners.
 
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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Use the porta power with longer 4X6’s to spread the push on the good side, push the pillar out just enough to get the tailgate open so you can see what it looks like in the inside corners.
I will do this with pictures as soon as I can. Thank you! I was worried about spreading the good side and having double the work.

with all the rust you have in that quarter, you're already going to be doing a lot of cutting..my .02 cents, think a new quarter would be the best way to go..
I already planned on hanging new quarters on both sides when I bought the rig.
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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Is that twisted... and pushed in?!
 

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1982 FSB 302, c6, NP208 manual, manual hubs, manual windows, 3.00 gears LSD rear, 235/75/15 HK ATM
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138 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Is that twisted... and pushed in?!
It was hit while parked by an uninsured illegal immigrant. Yep, the bottom is pushed in with the bumper twisted into it. The inside panel that has the latch stud for the tailgate bows inward from the bottom. I pushed the top out like that with the porta power Saturday when I had a few minutes while the kids were asleep. I should have put the top on to help hold the unsupported top rail from bulging out. I was going to call you when I started it but my phone was dead. Between the porta power and a tire spoon I was able to get it pried out and twisted back enough to get my tailgate completely open. I took the pictures yesterday. I think I see what you are talking about and no, my top went flush as it is supposed to before the porta power. It just looks twisted in the pic I think because of the bulge in the wheel arch from the quarter trying to fold. I think I can use a come along with the porta power to pull the top back in, while maintaining outward pressure in the tail light area to keep the center straightish. I might fab up some bracing once I cut out the quarter to keep them even while trying to tame the body.
 
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