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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just got my bassini exhaust. SO now the fun part is tryingto get those four lovely 1989 bolts off. I have been PBing those suckers for the last three days. One do I just need more PB? Two can I cut those suckers off with a dremel. Three I dont have a welder. Four. IS 5/8 the correct socket. I need this bolts off so I can start this process. Any pointers guys. I do have the punk azz goodyear 24v impact wrench but no go......:banghead
 

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No matter what size they started at, the rusting process will wear away at the bolt head. The effect of that is to change the size of the bolt. You might get it by being patient with PB Blaster a few more days and then again it may be a useless effort.

1. Maker sure the socket fits tight
2. Using a propane torch heat the bolt
3. Before turning it in the counter clock wise direction try tightening it. (I know that may sound strange, but it is an old trick for breaking free a frozen bolt or screw. The idea is to break the rust weld and by tightening it. If you mess the bolt up a bit you still have a good surface for the loosening direction.)
4. Work the bolt by tightening and then then loosening as far as it will go without severe force. Then tighten it some and loosen it more. This method sometimes gets a rusted bolt out without snapping it.

If the bolt head gets really messed up, Sears now sells what looks like a socket but has Easy Out type threads inside it to grab a messed up bolt head. You tap it on with a hammer and going counter colckwise causes it to grab the bolt even tighter.

Worst case is that you snap the bolt and then you will need to drill it out and put in a repair coil.

Good luck,
 

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Seabronc said:
4. Work the bolt by tightening and then then loosening as far as it will go without severe force. Then tighten it some and loosen it more. This method sometimes gets a rusted bolt out without snapping it.

Good luck,
That is a VERY good piece of advice and it will work. There are plenty of guys out there who know mechanics in theory, but until you know how to turn a wrench, and have the feel for knowing when a fastener is going to snap......or you NEED just the right touch to be a really good mechanic.
I dont care how much knowledge you have in your head.....if you dont have it in your hands you will never make a good mechanic.
 

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Seabronc said:
Worst case is that you snap the bolt and then you will need to drill it out and put in a repair coil.
If you're careful drilling, you can get good threads in the manifold without an insert, but putting an insert in isn't much harder.

Replacement studs are available in the Help! section in a kit with brass nuts for $8. I'd recommend getting them, and a 7/16-14 tap for the holes. Running the tap through the hole in the manifold even after you get the stud out cleanly makes putting it all back together *so* much easier. I'd also suggest getting some copper-based high-temp anti-seize.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Help section for the bolts kit? Where is this located? Is it the general help and repair sections?
 

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Sorry. Help! is a brand of "spare parts", and most car parts stores have a rack of their products. They're all packaged in red blister packs, which I believe is the source of Sixlitre's "cherry red" comment, though he might be speaking of how hot to heat the bolts.
 

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sewiv said:
Sorry. Help! is a brand of "spare parts", and most car parts stores have a rack of their products. They're all packaged in red blister packs, which I believe is the source of Sixlitre's "cherry red" comment, though he might be speaking of how hot to heat the bolts.
A more sly man would admit to thinking of, and meaning, both but you were right with the second thought.

Heat her til' she's cherry red, just like Iran's gonna be if they keep rattling their Nuclear jihad sword at the West. I kinda like the idea of angle pumping them dry of oil, while looking over the glassy top crust that was once populated sand.

Sixlitre
 

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sewiv said:
7/16-14, on my `94 302. They're actually studs and nuts, just so you know.
Right you are Sewiv !

Three times I've walked into Midas muffler and offered to pay them for the studs and three times they've stuck em' in my hand and said "have a nice day". Last time I got the clue finally and brought the boys a box of Tim Horton donuts for their good deeds.

As far as the nuts go, how much would you pay to be able to back them off right now ?!?!?!?!? Spend a buck or two at NAPA or Carquest and buy brass, like I did here;





and they'll come off easily next time (and there will be a next time, believe you me !), like they did in the lower pic after three winters of Canadian salt.

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok... I have broken one stud head. So what size drill bit do I tap into the stud to back it out?
 

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bronco culture said:
ok... I have broken one stud head. So what size drill bit do I tap into the stud to back it out?
It's already "one" with the manifold

leave it in there and just drill and re-tap the threads and thread in the new stud. It's not like it's a T-stat housing thread that's gonna be off and on as often as a new bride's pyjamas.

7/16" UNC

Sixlitre
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ok break this down on the level of a 2 year old. My comprehension level is out the door tonight and most days. I am exhausted and only have three more to go..
 

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Buy a 7/16-14 tap, and read it. It'll tell you what drill size to use. Start at about half that, and drill up to the size it says, then tap the hole with your new tap and lots of lube. Then screw in your new stud with your new high-temp anti-sieze on it.
 

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sewiv said:
Buy a 7/16-14 tap, and read it. It'll tell you what drill size to use. Start at about half that, and drill up to the size it says, then tap the hole with your new tap and lots of lube. Then screw in your new stud with your new high-temp anti-sieze on it.
Couldn't have spoonfed you better than that bronco culture

What I was saying is; through heat, rust and time your busted stud is part of your manifold now and ain't-a-gonna back out with some PB blaster and an easy-out.

Believe me it's as good as cast in there like the rest of the manifold. Do like Sewiv says and don't get overly concerned if it ain't perfectly straight of deadnuts centered.

Drill it, tap it and slap it on. One of my studs was off on a weird angle and off center and the Y-pipe flanges still fit back over it no problem at all.

Lots of Chevy trained exhaust shops and mechanics would just drill it out completely through and hang it using smaller 3/8" threaded stock and nuts on both ends.

Don't get any slovenly, lazy, half-azzed GM ideas there Ford man !!!!!!!!!!

Now get out there and drill ! and don't forget to back the tap off a half turn, every half turn forward so you don't break it off.

Sixlitre

p.s./
Makes you wish your shorties were already here and paid for eh ?:thumbup
 

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Also, a good center punch on the actual center of the bolt will help, though it's not necessary that it be perfectly centered. It's mainly just to prevent the first bit you use from wandering.

When it comes time to tap, go through your 12 point sockets and find the tightest fitting one to the base of the tap. That, on an extension, will fit a lot better than a tap handle, and you've probably already got it.
 
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