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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got my hands on a Tranny Jack to bolt up the C6 and I'm still catching hell.

When bolting up the TC to the flexplate, is there a certain way the studs bolt up to the plate? I've spun the tc to where each stud has it's hand for each hole and I finally got all the top studs to go through, but the lower one does not want to work with me, so it appears I'm doing something wrong.

I was told that the TC could have worked it's way out of it's seat, but I dropped the Tranny twice to make sure it's set, and both times it was.

Also, I somehow broke off one of the ear mounts for the top passenger side bolt. Am I now screwed on this swap without getting that fixed (Probably won't be fixable) or without a new block or am I ok as long as the other 5 bolts are secure?

I'm somewhat in a hurry as I only have this Jack until tomorrow.

So.. What's the trick to mounting the C6 properly?

Thanks.
 

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Theres a drain plug on the convertor that needs to go through a hole on the flex plate.
And you would probably be OK with 5 bolts. Theres going to be a lot of stress on it in 1st gear, low range and your foot hard on the gas, but I don't think you would have any problem.
 

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I didn't get the whole story so I don't know what your project consists of but I put a 351 in my bronco and had a hell of a time until I discovered that I [being an idiot] never thought of the fact that the engine came out of a rig with a 4 speed. The pilot bearing was still in the end of the crank! Freakin pissed me off.
 

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Point being if your C6 is replacing a 4 speed you need to pop the pilot out of the end of the crankshaft or the TConv nose will not fit into the end of the crank.
If this is the case, the easy way is to stuff the pilot full of wet toilet paper, then place a snug fitting shaft, socket, punch or something into the pilot hole and hit it with a hammer. The hydraulic pressure will pop the pilot out easy as cake.
 

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Dude, the input spline shaft that slid through the clutch and crap was likely like an inch in diameter with a 1/2" tip that poked into a pilot bearing pressed into the crank. The cone on the front of the TC is like 1 1/2 inches across and has to mate with the end of the crank........my thought is to pull the trans back and look into the end of the crank, bet there's a small pilot hole and a brass [or needles] bushing about the size of the TC nose cone. Let me guess, all the bolts lined up with the holes but when you tightened up 2 of them the whole thing binds up and the other two bolts pull away from the holes? ALMOST LIKE IT"S HIGH CENTERED ON A SPOT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE FLEX PLATE? WHERE THE CONE WON'T GO INTO THE CRANK PERHAPS?

Dude, I had a fit with mine, I was working alone and I tried it 10 times before I got sick of it and yanked the motor back out...then I discovered this simplest of curses, I lost my mind and destroyed a garbage can with a floor jack handle,after I pulled the pilot out I was done mating the trans and eng in 15 minutes or less.
 

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Swampwalker3 said:
Hmm, I was told by some FE guys that I shouldn't have to do anything to replace the tranny except swap the flywheel to the flexplate.

But, I removed a NP 435 and I'm replacing it with this C6 on my FE 360.
Well then there you go...gotta yank the pilot bushing out of the back of the crank. I had the same problem 10 years ago. Just overlooked it and after like an hour of fighting with it I remembered its still in the back of the crank.



And the converter should have a drain plug on it unless its some cheap POS knonkoff. Every one I have seen has one.



Swampwalker3 said:
The hole is about the size of my finger. So, would you say that I just need to remove that bushing and bolt up the tranny, or do I need to pick up another bushing?

It does make sense.
No other bushing needed. Just pull the stock one and install the tranny.
 

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The bushing will pop, yank or whatever right out of the end of the crank leaving a hole the size of the TC tip. You need no bearing with an auto.
 

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MikE2 said:
theres no way to get the bolt out?

Drill it then eazy-out?

Can you back it out by turning it with a punch and hammer?
I got the idea that ear snapped off the trans not a bolt broken off in the block
 

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LukeNukem said:
I got the idea that ear snapped off the trans not a bolt broken off in the block
Well then if thats the case I would have a new ear welded on or just weld the broken one back together. You already got the transmission out anyways....right? Take it to someone with a TIG and it would only take a minute to fix it.
Migt not be required, but if it was my transmission every time I put a load on it that missing bolt would always be in the back of my mind.
 

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To help with my tranny installs, I took a couple of long bolts that's the same thread dia as the bellhousing bolts, cut off the heads and ground the ends down to a blunt point with two flats so I can get an open end wrench on them. They help out a ton when guiding the tranny into place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It appears that I'm not able to turn the crank with a socket and breaker (Though the flywheel turned just fine when I had to remove the bolts.. Stupid bastard), so I was wondering if it would hurt to spin the flexplate by jumping the starter? This way I can tighten all of the nuts to seat the TC to the plate.

If not, anyone care for a bon fire this weekend?
 
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