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Discussion Starter #1
Heres my problem...


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/grains/Me004.jpg[/IMG
(Look How Thick that paint is (or was)...
[IMG]http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y12/grains/Me003.jpg

I have a Qt. of Bondo, its like 40* outside, and I was wondering if anyone could lend some suggestions on how to apply etc. I read the bottle and it looks easy enough, but ive never used it before. Thanks for any tips :thumbup
 

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whole lotta rust there. You may try fiberglass. You'll need the bondo to finish shaping the 'glass. Only way to do it right is cut out all the rust and weld in new metal. Or fill it with news paper and bondo over the top. You also need to do it in a warm place.
 

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Ex Navy Nuke
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You can't bondo over a hole that big unless you want to crack and fall out in a couple weeks. The right way would be a patch panel as stated. Not actually a "patch panel" like you put on a side panel but a piece of metal that can be welded in to fill most or all of the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Really so the Bondo clothe stuff wont do it?... I should add this too, the container says "Bondo Figerglass Resin Jelly"...and the clothe says for glass too....
 

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Practicing Infidel
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Grains

I agree with the others on heat. Gotta have it for at least the first few hours to cure either fiberglass or bondo.

If welding isn't an option at this point, then I'll give you the quick and dirty lowdown I used to do on my beaters.

What you're looking for is long strand fiberglass, one brand is called kitty hair or marglass. We've spand much larger areas and it dries as hard, and nearly as strong, as a rock.

Caution: get it the way you want it before it dries because you practically need a grinding stone to shape it later. In other words support it from behind (duct tape, balled up newspaper, etc) so you don't need too much and build it up to within a 1/16th of an inch of the finished surface. You can make up the last 1/16th with much more easily worked with bondo.

The kitty hair will dry incredibly quickly, especially if you mix the hardner correctly. The bondo takes 10-15 minutes to "set up" until it's workable with a surform blade.

Once you can "cheese grate it" with the surform blade(without puling it off the kity hair), you can shape it and remove excess bondo down closer to the shape and thickness you want.

After that let it harden more, then finish shaping and smoothing it with a sander.

Here's a trick I've done before.

Clean up all the loose rust and bent metal, so the area is ready for the products, at home in the cold. Wipe it down with acetone.

Get all your materials and a few newspapers, rags, cardboard, gloves, applicators, acetone (for clean up), etc all ready and into the warm truck.

Head downtown to a heated underground parking lot and pull in for a movie. Park in the lowest, least used area, away from cameras and back in(not all the way). Leap out, open the tailgate like you're getting something, lay some newspapers on THEIR concrete, mix up the kitty hair on the cardboard you brought, smear it into the hole and get it the way you want it.

While it dries relatively hard (10 minutes), clean up a bit; your fingers, the floor,etc and toss the garbage into the bag you brought(DO NOT throw it out in their garbage, take it home).

Close the tailgate, lock the truck and go and see the movie. Lord of the Rims or the longest movie you can find.

When you come out, drive home, grind and shape the kitty hair and get the bondo ready to go on top of the kitty hair the next time you're at the theatre.

Sixlitre

*NEVER EVER leave bondo or fiberglass outside in the cans, it'll be toast if it drops below freezing.

**Check the underground clearance before driving into the underground lot !
 

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Lick my balls
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Drying times vary according to temperature. At room temp you have to act quick. The colder it is the longer you have to wait. Although I like Sixlitre's idea of going into a parking garage, I would just do it at home. As long as you are in a coverred area, you just have to wait longer for it to cure.

BUT with a hole that big, if you can't weld a patch than I would at least pop rivet a shaped piece of sheet metal on that corner first. Putting straight fibre glass with a bondo follow up or even worse straight bondo is not the answer...at all.
 

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waltman said:
Drying times vary according to temperature. At room temp you have to act quick. The colder it is the longer you have to wait. Although I like Sixlitre's idea of going into a parking garage, I would just do it at home. As long as you are in a coverred area, you just have to wait longer for it to cure.

BUT with a hole that big, if you can't weld a patch than I would at least pop rivet a shaped piece of sheet metal on that corner first. Putting straight fibre glass with a bondo follow up or even worse straight bondo is not the answer...at all.
Waltman

You're right metal is the way to go

but it sounds like he needs quick and dirty and ain't interested (or able) to fixing it right. We've all had beaters like that (not that I'm calling any Bronco a beater).

You can put money in the hack's bank account, but deep down he'll still be a hack

Sixlitre (a reforming hack)
 

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Dead Horse
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u need to make a patch and weld it in place, bondo over it, sand till smooth, paint, and ure done!
 

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Lick my balls
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He can get away with pop rivetting a piece on. It is cheap and anyone can do it. He just needs to seal, up the patch from the back side to prevent moisture from getting to the fibre glass/bondo/steel and causing bubbles prematurely.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So this fiberglass resin Bondo stuff aint going to cut it... damn lol, that hole has been since ive had the truck (in June) so fixing it aint a real rush, I just awant to get er done, I think I could Rivet some metal (aluminum?) on there, then bondo over it... I dont know how/have the stuff/know who welds so thats outta the question I think

I do have that catalog from NPD... still havent read it...
 

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Lick my balls
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aluminum is OK.
 

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Practicing Infidel
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Grains said:
So this fiberglass resin Bondo stuff aint going to cut it... damn lol, that hole has been since ive had the truck (in June) so fixing it aint a real rush, I just awant to get er done, I think I could Rivet some metal (aluminum?) on there, then bondo over it... I dont know how/have the stuff/know who welds so thats outta the question I think

I do have that catalog from NPD... still havent read it...
You can get patch panels good and cheap

but frankly the metal is so thick on a 78 I'd try to repair what you have.

Sixlitre
 

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Call up a local Community College that has an automotive program and see if you can get it fixed there. Usually all you pay for is the parts/material plus 10% to 20% for a shop fee. Some student/students will do the work and they are getting a grade for it. The only way to fix a hole like that PROPERLY is have all the rust removed and metal welded in and the perhaps a little bondo to smooth it out and get it to match the fine contours. Bondo will just pop out like a cork on a hole that big. Besides do you really want ten pounds of bondo in there? If you don't get that rust out of there and remove the cause of your problem (blocked drain hole?) you're just covering up the cancer.

Do it right, do it once and then move on to the next thing. Just giving it the "slap and tickle" will mean that you'll have to come back later and fix it properly and it will be much worse. :doh0715: Just one opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ok ill check out some colleges, we got like 8 here in town so Im sure Ican find one, I didnt know bondo was for smaller holes, so no I dont want to have it pop out 10 pnds worth either lol. Ill work on grinding off/cut out that rust round there... Are there drain holes inside somewhere I should check out?
 

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redwagon said:
not really bondo doesnt stick to it to well.
Sticks like glue to long strand fiberglass. Although for the work involved you may as well go with metal, as fiberglass is only temporary compared to what your 78 really wants.....more metal.

Sixlitre
 

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Lick my balls
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redwagon said:
not really bondo doesnt stick to it to well.
Bondo sticks to anything. As long as you put some "teeth" in the steel/aluminum for the bondo to stick to by using 24-36 grit grinding disc. Also if Grains isn't familiar with body work, or if he has aluminum handy, why not? I would prefer to use steel myself, and I would weld it. But you use what you have handy. Whateer you do, it will look better than that gaping hole that is there now.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok thanks guys, ill see if my mech cna weld too, just thought of him...
 
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