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Discussion Starter #1
Test fit on the drivers side:





A hoist and transmission jack make this a very easy task:





The front mount was no problem:









The rear leg had to be moved back 7", as it was right in line with the fuel filter:









The final test fit before paint:









They stick out a bit further in the rear. I was worried that this was from cutting the rear leg, but both sides are the same:







Paint time. I will re-paint them in the summer with Herculiner or similar:





Drivers' side done:





I didn't take any pictures of the right side, as it went smoothly because the frame rail has nothing on it. I did have to weld shims to the back of the mounting plates on both sides to get the sliders to sit properly, and I still want to drill one more hole in the lower corner of each plate. I also plan on adding some "grip tape" to the top of the tubes. I haven't slipped off yet, but I know it is just a matter of time. :histerica

Final poser pictures:

















All in all, I am happy with them. They do deflect when I step on them, but it all in the frame. Yay! :cry
It is sure nice not to have to step on the door sill/weatherstrip to climb in and out. :thumbup

I almost got to use them last weekend:





Thanks again to Ricardo and the Mountain States Chapter for letting me in on their group buy. If not for you guys, I might have put a few more dents in old blue. :histerica
 

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Nice writeup. :thumbup

I remember when you first painted Blue...that damn salt sure does do a number on them, eh? Any plans for dolling it up again in the future?

Shouldn't there be some more lower support on the frame mounts? What if you snag something while climbing out a ravine, etc? It could do some nasty stuff....
 

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They look good! yeah man, I've been very happy with my boondock sliders. strange with the leg you had to move. Is the fuel filter in a different spot on 95's, my leg bolted just forward of the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I remember when you first painted Blue...that damn salt sure does do a number on them, eh? Any plans for dolling it up again in the future?
No f-ing way. I was a different person when I spent all that time and money on bodywork. Hell, I don't even want to paint the car. I think that down the road, Blue will either get a fresh Bronco body, or a p/u cab and flat deck. We'll see how I feel down that road. :toothless
This year, I will be cutting and welding in some new pieces here and there, but paint won't be a concern. Why? Well, I was watching monster trucks a few months back, and they did a segment on Grave Digger, and how they always have a tough time matching the green powdercoat on the frame after they do repairs. So they decided to paint all the repairs black, and as the season goes along, you will be able to see all the repairs. I like that idea, so I'm going to run with it. "Blue" will become "Black & Blue". :thumbup



Shouldn't there be some more lower support on the frame mounts? What if you snag something while climbing out a ravine, etc? It could do some nasty stuff....
I would definatley have preferred a larger plate for mounting, but, in my case, the way they are is fine for now. I am very suspect that because my body mounts are so pooched, the body is sitting a lot lower than it should be. Notice how the plates are right at the bottom of the frame. The right side isn't quite as bad, and I really don't think they are supposed to sit down that low, thus why I had to shim them to get them sitting properly. When I do the body mounts later this year, I'l have to re-assess.



strange with the leg you had to move. Is the fuel filter in a different spot on 95's, my leg bolted just forward of the filter.
Not sure. I thought that maybe the newer trucks didn't have the filter there at all. :scratchhe
 

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I would put a plate on the inside of the frame so the mounts don't put all the stress on one area. Those crappy C-channel frames like to bend and crack, ask me how I know. Otherwise, they look good.
 

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I would put a plate on the inside of the frame so the mounts don't put all the stress on one area. Those crappy C-channel frames like to bend and crack, ask me how I know. Otherwise, they look good.
:shrug idk my c channel frame is fine with my sliders, ive stood on mine and bounced up and down, im 235 btw, and the frame hardly moves. theyve proved them selves against a good beating too. no cracks on bends ask me how i know :toothless

I think they be fine the way they are, look awsome too btw
 

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I also need shims , any chance you would mike making me a set for both sides. I would pay you for time and materials. just send me a pm if you are interested.

I am also happy with the sliders overall.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
:shrug idk my c channel frame is fine with my sliders.....I think they be fine the way they are
I agree. I hung my fat ass from them when it was on the hoist, and the only movement was from the frame itself. Plating the inside would do no good.



I also need shims , any chance you would mike making me a set for both sides. I would pay you for time and materials. just send me a pm if you are interested.
I would need your truck here to do it. All I did was take a piece of steel and grind it into a wedge, until it was the correct "wedgeness".
 

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Lick my balls
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I still want to drill one more hole in the lower corner of each plate.
I was thinking the same thing. They should have used a larger plate to spread the load over a larger area and end up with 2 bolts on the bottom and 2 on the top.
How come you didn't trim the square tubing in the back while you had it apart the what...2" ?????????

Looks alright though. What was the price after the group buy?


When you say fuel filter, don't you mean the single function reservoir?:toothless
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How come you didn't trim the square tubing in the back while you had it apart the what...2" ?????????
Cuz I didn't realize it stuck out until we had welded it back together. If was just the one side, then I would have pulled it in an inch or so, but because both sides are equal, I can live with it. I figure it will help push the rear of the truck a bit further, thus lessening the chance of the rear 1/4 getting it. That's my story. :toothless



What was the price after the group buy?
$250 US, and this was back in November when our dollar was about $1.06. I also had to pay $134 shipping from Colorado to my broker in Blaine.



When you say fuel filter, don't you mean the single function reservoir?:toothless
Well, fuel goes through it and there is a filter in there. :histerica
 

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Cuz I didn't realize it stuck out until we had welded it back together. If was just the one side, then I would have pulled it in an inch or so, but because both sides are equal, I can live with it. I figure it will help push the rear of the truck a bit further, thus lessening the chance of the rear 1/4 getting it. That's my story. :toothless




$250 US, and this was back in November when our dollar was about $1.06. I also had to pay $134 shipping from Colorado to my broker in Blaine.




Well, fuel goes through it and there is a filter in there. :histerica
Well those excuses sound plausable to me.:thumbup

I hate the fees you have to pay at the border. I bought my york from Jackhart a while back and it was a good deal, I'm pretty sure he included shipping...then I ended up paying over a hundred for the privilege of going over the line . That right there made it not worth it.
 

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The driver side is much worse then the passenger side because drilling the frame and getting the bolts in with all the wiring and fuel lines in the way is a be-otch. I did mine a little different.

Made the outside sections

Made and mounted mounting plates

fitted outside sections to final position

cut and welded legs to fit between the sliders and the mounts mounted to the frame. That way the final placement is where you wanted.... gauranteed.

On my '91, the frame causing the deflecting as well. Sad....








FYI - Using a tubing notcher instead of an angle grinder to get your tubing to match up is 10X easier and makes the finished product come out much better.



 

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Discussion Starter #15
Did ya put your hilift under one yet???
Damn jack nearly took my face off when I went to lower it. Good thing my buddy got two black eyes from this, so I keep my ugly mug clear of the jack handle! :toothless

Here she is, all jacked up:







The front touches the body a little bit:





The rear touches a bit more:





Definately need a lower bolt on the mounting plate:







I think I will keep my eyes open for some 2"x2" square tube and make some "Andy's Sliders" for these sliders to make contact with instead of the body.

I also had to re-paint the hole side of the right slider. Appears that I used it more than I thought on the last wheeling trip. :thumbup
 

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Maybe Im wrong, but I mounted my sliders at the top of my frame. My sliders "side bars" rest flush agaist my trucks rockers. When I did the "Hi-Lift" test the sliders didn't move. The mount plates stayed on the frame.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Maybe Im wrong, but I mounted my sliders at the top of my frame. My sliders "side bars" rest flush agaist my trucks rockers. When I did the "Hi-Lift" test the sliders didn't move. The mount plates stayed on the frame.
It's not that your wrong, it's a "6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other" scenario.
Your way you risk the sliders rubbing and making noise against the body when driving on bumpy roads. My way, I get deflection. I've only got maybe 1/4" max between the two, and this is because the bottom of my body is rough (although the above testing helped even the left side out :toothless)

Also, as I mentioned earlier, my frame twisted so much when I was hanging off these things that I will always have some movement of the sliders.
 

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Maybe Im wrong, but I mounted my sliders at the top of my frame. My sliders "side bars" rest flush agaist my trucks rockers. When I did the "Hi-Lift" test the sliders didn't move. The mount plates stayed on the frame.

do you have the same type of slider from Boondock? I don't see how Chris could have mounted his at the top of the frame since that's where all the bolts are.

But this is basically what I thought would happen Chris with no bolts underneath. Your sliders are close enough to the bottom of the frame, what about welding a piece that goes under the bottom lip of the C and putting 2 bolts under there?
 

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From what I've seen of Boondock stuff, they look pretty good and are reasonabley priced, but I'm surprised they did not put any bolts (preferabley 2) on the bottom of the brackets. Especially considering what they are designed to do.
 

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do you have the same type of slider from Boondock? I don't see how Chris could have mounted his at the top of the frame since that's where all the bolts are.
Yeah, as a matter of fact, I have the first set Boondock made. I mounted my sliders on the frame side but at the top, higher than Bronco boy. I used a 90* drill.
 
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