BOSS's Budget Engine Over Haul 5.8L

73984 Views 106 Replies 6 Participants Last post by bossind, Jan 19, 2013

bossind

Discussion Starter · May 4, 2009 (Edited)

A year ago or perhaps more... I bought a 96 Ford E250 for the 5.8L Roller Block engine, Mass Air and computer, plans where and still are to build a 393 stroker with that engine. Now another opportunity presented it's self to me less than 2 weeks ago - a wreaked low miles 96 EB Bronco with a 5.8L, which of course I bought. Running parallel to that deal I also landed a set of GT40Y alloy heads to replace the ones currently in my 5.0 Bronco with a burnt valve.

Lots on the go... Now the new plan.

The 393 Build will still proceed, once I gain enough parts to build it right. So I'll continue to collect parts as deals present themselves, and in a year or 2 I'll build it.

So for now I have a burnt valve 5.0 in my 96 bronco, still runs great, but the ticking is driving me crazy. My plan was to simply swap the heads but that has now changed with the recent purchase of this lower mileage Bronco 5.8L. I will overhaul this engine on a low cost budget to give me a daily driver and a few extra HP would be welcome.

Lets begin with a list of parts I have. (This will grow and change I'm sure)

-Fel-Pro Gasket set
-High Volume Oil Pump
-GT 40 Lower intake for a 5.8L (Still need an Upper)
-E303 Cam, its in my 5.0, if I can't find something better at a fair price I'll reuse it.
-GT40Y heads, ready to be used.
-New Oil Pan
-Manifold studs

Parts I need or would like:

-1.6 Roller Rockers
-GT 40 Upper intake
-Ring and bearings (Yet to be determined)
-New motor mounts (Might make them)
-headers (but can upgrade latter if need be)

So here is the Donor.

With the engine on an engine stand I pressure washed it and looked it over.

I started to strip the engine down, broke only to head exhaust manifold studs.

Roller Lifters confirmed

I sand blasted the lower intake, hoping I won't have to use it but you never know and I had some time to kill so I might as well clean it up.

Its amazing how bad the casting are around the ports, I cleaned them up with a die grinder.

I than painted it with my favorite rim paint, I've had luck with this on other engine parts currently on my bronco engine.

More to follow

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61 - 80 of 107 Posts

bossind

Discussion Starter · #61 · Aug 20, 2009

Cleaned up the water pump, a bit pitted but still in usable condition.

Oh but big surprise, the gasket set doesn't have the right gasket.

Did manage to get the timing cover on

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bossind

Discussion Starter · #62 · Aug 20, 2009

Black93Bronco said:
looks like if you flipped it over and rotated it 180* it would fit. Sometimes they look way off but if you manuver them around a bit you find they fit.

Edit: now that I look at it it looks way too small. but still give it a shot, mine looked way off till i played with it for a couple minutes.

LOL, its the wrong one, I have since got the right one and have installed the pump.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #63 · Aug 20, 2009

Froggmann said:
Build is looking good so far, but I do have to warn you about that HV pump. You will have oil leaks because of it. Been there done that twice before. The valve cover gaskets just can't take the volume.

But there is no pressure at the valve covers that is related to the pump.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #64 · Aug 20, 2009

I just gt back from the machine shop, I dropped a valve spring off to them so they can check the rate, bind and stuff. I bought a set of GT40 heads used and I have no idea what the springs are on them, I want to make sure they match my cam.

broncoflorida

· #65 · Aug 20, 2009

bossind said:
But there is no pressure at the valve covers that is related to the pump.

ditto

their's only two holes at either end of the head. What I have seen is oil sludge built-up so bad that the oil doesn't drain back quick enough and weak VC gaskets will leak.

I just gt back from the machine shop, I dropped a valve spring off to them so they can check the rate, bind and stuff. I bought a set of GT40 heads used and I have no idea what the springs are on them, I want to make sure they match my cam.

You should really have them check all 16 valve springs to make sure they all are good and more so if you have a high lift or aggressive cam lobe. The GT40 springs are not known to work with very high lift cams and can bind. Your cam mfg'er should have a list of combination that works and might even suggest a complete top change out ( new rockers, retainers,etc....)

bossind

Discussion Starter · #66 · Aug 20, 2009

broncoflorida said:
You should really have them check all 16 valve springs to make sure they all are good and more so if you have a high lift or aggressive cam lobe. The GT40 springs are not known to work with very high lift cams and can bind. Your cam mfg'er should have a list of combination that works and might even suggest a complete top change out ( new rockers, retainers,etc....)

This one is free, so if its within my cam specs that I gave them I'll have them all tested, if its not I'll buy the set from Comp Cam. :rockon

bossind

Discussion Starter · #67 · Aug 20, 2009

The Ric said:
Boss, I'd hate to see you put that motor together with that used water pump. 40 bucks or so for a new one, is well worth it(which you should know already). When I had a 302 freshened up I reused the water pump, and long behold it started leaking 3 months later, so there I was banging my head in the wall because I didn't change it.

Certainly that is good advice, but she is good and tight and its a risk I'm willing to take right now, besides I just live down the road so its not like I'll be doing any distance with it for awhile. Maybe I'll change after I get the engine broken and I'm installing the 24lb injectors.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #68 · Aug 22, 2009

Can't do a whole lot now till my valve springs are sorted out, they hadn't tested the spring I dropped off yet.

So a few odds and ends:

Installed the crank sensor

Installed the motor mounts but I had to grind away the drivers side to make it fit flat, I'm not impressed.

You can see here where it hits the block on the 90 degree bend, I'll have to weld a bead on the inside to restore strength.

Cleaned up the balancer and installed it.

More pics of the mounts

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bossind

Discussion Starter · #69 · Aug 26, 2009 (Edited)

Springs have been tested, they came back good. Think I have these numbers in the right order.

They have an install height of 1.800 AT 121LB

and a bind height of 1.200 at 328Lbs.

So if I'm reading that right I have a max .600 lifter height and this cam is .555

Checking with Comp, the spring they recommend is 322LBS and a bind height of 1.150 in, so I'm thinking I'm good to go?

bossind

Discussion Starter · #70 · Sep 4, 2009

Just ordered the following from Summit.

ARP-154-3603 Cylinder Head Bolts, High Performance, Hex Head, Ford, 351W, with Stock, Edelbrock Performer, RPM Heads, Kit - 61.95

4 -Valve, Exhaust, Stainless Steel, 1.540 in. Diameter, 5.078 in. Length, Ford, Each $10.95

4 FMS-M-6507-J302 Valve, Intake, Stainless Steel, 1.940 in. Diameter, 5.078 in. Length, Ford, Each $12.95

FPP-1415 Exhaust Gaskets, Header, Steel Core Laminate, Stock Port, Ford, Small Block, Set $21.95

SUM-G9036 Headers, Shorty, Steel, Painted, Ford, Bronco, F-150, F-250 Pickup, 5.8L, Pair $159.95

Part Subtotal $339.45

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bossind

Discussion Starter · #71 · Sep 19, 2009

Parts from Summit showed up last week, going away for a few days so it won't be till next week before I start the finally completion.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #72 · Sep 27, 2009

Some progress at last!

Installed and lapped the new valves

Installed the heads

Like to find some roller rockers

Installed the intake and stock injectors wit h new O-Rings

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bossind

Discussion Starter · #73 · Sep 30, 2009

Picked up a set of Scorpion roller rockers new for 230.00cdn today. They had them for ever and wanted to clear them out. On ebay for 280us plus shipping so I figured it was a good buy.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #74 · Oct 2, 2009

Update

Well apparently the roller rockers are not an exact replacement for the ford rockers and new pushrods would be required - as i found out when I went to install them. So I think I'll pass on that as I want to get this engine done and installed.

The Ric

· #75 · Oct 2, 2009

bummer. i read the other thread you posted and it looks like your just SOL with them roller rockers, which would of been awesome to get that free horsepower out of them. If you pick up a few extra bucks you gonna get the correct push rods for it? you can pretty much get them at any time since you got the rockers, unless you sell them or something.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #76 · Oct 2, 2009

The Ric said:
bummer. i read the other thread you posted and it looks like your just SOL with them roller rockers, which would of been awesome to get that free horsepower out of them. If you pick up a few extra bucks you gonna get the correct push rods for it? you can pretty much get them at any time since you got the rockers, unless you sell them or something.

At some point I may change the injectors so I may swap them in then. Just this build keeps dragging on and I had hoped to have the engine in by now.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #77 · Oct 3, 2009

countryboy82 said:
How much of a difference is there? I bought some 1.7s and used the Ford Racing M-6529-A302 shim kit and used the factory length pushrods.

Its enough that shims would make it worse - I need longer pushrods. You had the opposite problem.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #78 · Oct 5, 2009

Installed the headers and plugs

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bossind

Discussion Starter · #79 · Oct 5, 2009

magnumpi said:
whats that oil dipstick from? my factory one never really mounted up securley after i put on my headers.

also, whats the fuel rail off of?

All factory 96 Bronco parts.

bossind

Discussion Starter · #80 · Oct 17, 2009

The day has come.... transplant time!

Started taking out the old engine this morning.

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