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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Finally getting around to build the Cage for my 976 bronco. I will be using Bend-Teck Pro software to design the cage and an RDM-125 Baileigh tube bender. Cage will be built out of 2" .120 Dom tubing.

Here is the start on the design. I know I need more bracing, so feel free to photo chop with sugestions.


 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #3
2" is a pretty thick tube...are you sure on that?
I agree but thats what they call for now for anything over 4000lbs.

Up to 2000 lbs. 1.500" x 0.095
2001 - 2500 lbs. 1.500" x 0.120
2501 - 3000 lbs. 1.750" x 0.095
3001 - 4000 lbs. 1.750" x 0.120
Over 4000 lbs. 2.000" x 0.120
 

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FSB's Bastard Child
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If this is half as thorough as the rest of the steps of your build, It'll turn out great.
 

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MORTAL KOMBAAAAAAATTT!!!!
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Are you boring out holes in the floor to attatch to frame, or are you using the bushing technique.

I would think you need one going across the dash, and up to the roof from the bar going across the dash. I would say get rid of that big "V" on the roof, and make it look like a non-arched spider web up there.

I tried to put it in paint, but it didn't work
 

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Need a Bumper?
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I agree but thats what they call for now for anything over 4000lbs.

Up to 2000 lbs. 1.500" x 0.095
2001 - 2500 lbs. 1.500" x 0.120
2501 - 3000 lbs. 1.750" x 0.095
3001 - 4000 lbs. 1.750" x 0.120
Over 4000 lbs. 2.000" x 0.120
They being??

"They" have actually just outlawed DOM in its entirety last I heard and are requiring Chromolly only now. Better order new tube:histerica
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Are you boring out holes in the floor to attatch to frame, or are you using the bushing technique.

I would think you need one going across the dash, and up to the roof from the bar going across the dash. I would say get rid of that big "V" on the roof, and make it look like a non-arched spider web up there.

I tried to put it in paint, but it didn't work
I bought bushings to use between the frame and floor, I'll post some pics. Haven't decided on the front yet, still looking at other designs, like the idea of the spider web on top, have to look into that some more.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Went into the shop tonight for a few hours, thanks to my wife for taking over puppy duty.

So here is my setup.
I have a 96 Bronco tub to do the mock up and make my mistakes on.


Cut out these pads 4"x4" to work off of and to weld the tubing to, I'll match the pads with a larger pad under the floor to prevent a shearing effect, from there to the frame.


So on the back of the Bronco just in front of the tail gate, 60" from center to center of tube.



Underneath, no interference problems. The tek screws are only temporary, I'll be using grade 8bolts when all is done and said.



Pad behind the passenger seat, 49" Center to Center...

And no clearance issue underneath.



Pad for the second hoop in front of the wheel well, 53.5" Center to Center...

And I should be able to make the under side work



Some random pics


DOM
 

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MORTAL KOMBAAAAAAATTT!!!!
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Are you gonna samitch the plates inbetween the floor? I seen on x-treme 4x4 they used different sized plate on top and bottom to slow the friction down so it doesnt make a hole in the floor.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm dom
 

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Do you have any "top down" photos like you are looking down from the roof?
It looks like you are building a very similar cage that I want to build and I would love to see your mounting points so far.
I see the rear ones by the tailgate and it looks like that should clear my spare tire (inside spare)
 

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Sayulita Layta!
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Are you gonna samitch the plates inbetween the floor? I seen on x-treme 4x4 they used different sized plate on top and bottom to slow the friction down so it doesnt make a hole in the floor.

mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm dom
:smilie_slap

Cut out these pads 4"x4" to work off of and to weld the tubing to, I'll match the pads with a larger pad under the floor to prevent a shearing effect, from there to the frame.
:stupid
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I am sure you know this, but round all the corners on those plates so they dont act as a "can opener".
Good point - Sure will, I'll make them all nice and pretty.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
some poor blackberry pics

Left enough room for some interior pieces


landed nicely on my plating, just tac welded in place


sec puppy is into chewing the rug..

bar had a slight twist in it so I added these brackets to square it up. I'll remove them later. They will help keep everything in place while I make the rest of the cage.


Again lots of room for the trim pieces


Bar sits back more than I thought it would so I might not add the second hoop after all.


Bar will clear trim and air bad sensor on the floor.


Bar is within 3/16 of an inch of the body from side to side. I'm assuming the difference is with the body and not my bending, measuring, levels and software. :)
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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Very nice Steve. Just to clarify, it is your intent then to make this a rearward cage? Nothing forward of the of the dual hoops? Why so much rearward cage?

I'm very interested as I don't want any forward cage, I just am looking for a solid rearward rollbar, so I'll be watching. I'm still looking at buying the JBG one for $299 I think it was, plus ship.

.25" plate feet, not .188" ?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Very nice Steve. Just to clarify, it is your intent then to make this a rearward cage? Nothing forward of the of the dual hoops? Why so much rearward cage?

I'm very interested as I don't want any forward cage, I just am looking for a solid rearward rollbar, so I'll be watching. I'm still looking at buying the JBG one for $299 I think it was, plus ship.
I may go forward after the rear is completed as that would certainly be more functional as far as rollover is concern. I like the looks of a rear cage with the top off, and like the fact I can still use the rear shoulder belts with the top off. Guess I was also concern about the interference of the front cage around the dash and having access to things... though the more I work with tubing the more comfortable and skill i become so don't be surprised if I move into the front cab.

Now should I drop the second hoop? Would it look strange with 2 hoops?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Looks good, I wish I had acces to some of the shop tools you do. I amgueesing you bought this one for a trail rig.
Thanks bud, I bought it for parts and kept the tub to use for a mock-up but if I happen to find a set of axles I may make a trail rig - been playing around with the thought.
 

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Former owner of Shadofax
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I may go forward after the rear is completed as that would certainly be more functional as far as rollover is concern. I like the looks of a rear cage with the top off, and like the fact I can still use the rear shoulder belts with the top off. Guess I was also concern about the interference of the front cage around the dash and having access to things... though the more I work with tubing the more comfortable and skill i become so don't be surprised if I move into the front cab.

Now should I drop the second hoop? Would it look strange with 2 hoops?
I don't think it would look funny. For my rearward purpose I was thinking how I could do dual tube behind my head as well....adding to the basic 2x .120 JBG rollbar I'd be buying. That's the basic main hoop/sturdy structure that could take a lot. But for you, if you think you might be working forward, with all the bracing you have, I dunno about the need for dual hoops.

You're using .25" feet though, right?
 
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