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FSB Pimpster & Recruiter
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5,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all, I saw a few posts of a home made pressure brake bleeder but can't find any pictures or how to make one. I'm having problems getting my rear calipers to bleed. yes 4 wheel discs on my bronco. just replaced the calipers and tried the old way and still have air in system. also, since it's 4 wheel ABS, does the bronco need to be running? I can't remember since it was so long ago when we did the conversion.
Thanks in advance,
Allcruisen
 

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1984, 300 L6, smogless, manual 3speed with overdrive.
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1,457 Posts
You can get a hand activated pump that you use at the bleeder, just remember it’s a long ways to the back so if you got air in the system....It may take quite a while to bleed, just don’t run it empty bleeding it... been there done that. I always start at the farthest and work to the closest (line length). But I have always did the wife pumps it while I crack it method. I also run a clear tube on the bleeder up to the spring and back into a jar so the bleeder valve has always got fluid against it so it doesn’t accidentally suck air back in.
 

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1996 EB 5.8L, E4OD, 2.5" RC Lift, 33" tires, 3.55 gears
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103 Posts
If your budget will allow, I’m a big fan of the Motiv Power Bleeder. Used it on my 96 several times and have never had a problem. Truck shouldn’t need to be on to bleed...never had mine on while bleeding.
 

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Premium Member
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495 Posts
If any air got into the 4WABS unit, then it may need its valves cycled (or electronically held open?) while bleeding. I heard somewhere that Ford has a controller they plug into the unit to do this. If no air got into it, then the system should bleed normally. At least thats my understanding of it...
 

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FSB Pimpster & Recruiter
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5,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Okay, guy's. Thanks for the heads up.

I just used about two quarts of fluid and still getting a pedal to the floor.

@MojoJojo yes, that's the way I've always done it without much problems.

Gonna have to dig into it a bit more. I'm hoping I didn't get air in the ABS unit.

Thanks again,
Allcruisen
 

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Premium Member
84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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886 Posts
So I’ve never used a pressure bleeder, or had anything with 4wabs. But I’ve had good luck using a “mighty vac” style hand vacuum bleeder, starting from the rear passenger side.
Are your bleeder screws at the top of the caliper? I’ve seen some disc brakes conversions that don’t position the bleeders properly, and where you have to unbolt the caliper and hold it at the right angle to get the air out, then bolt it back on
 

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FSB Pimpster & Recruiter
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5,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Maybe coat the bleeder threads in antiseize so it seals in the caliper and doesn't suck air. This method works for me as a self bleeder setup.
Yeah my brother I did all that and I am not getting air out of the calipers but my pedal is still going all the way down after a full bleed.

My other question now is: How can I tell if my master cyl. went bad? I don't see any leaks around it and it holds pressure when doing a pressure test. I are confused AF on this.

I want to order an F350 Booster and master cyl. but want to make sure mine is the problem before I start throwing more money at her.

Thanks in advance,
Allcruisen
 

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Addicted to Junk
85 Bronco, 309ci I6 w/4bbl, np435, 4" lift, 37" Irok NDs, 4.56 w/ Detroit Locker and tru trac
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12,346 Posts
If you do the F350 master, you usually have to upgrade the rear wheel cylinders. Sinve you have disks, im not sure anout that.

The best way to bleed a system is pushing new fluid in through the bleeder. That will push the old fluid and any air out the reservoir. Since air rises in fluid, its working with you, not against you. No pedal pumping required.
 

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FSB Pimpster & Recruiter
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5,708 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
If you do the F350 master, you usually have to upgrade
@BigBlue 94 I already have the rear valve on master cylinder upgraded, my brakes were working great. I would lock all 4 wheels in an emergency, I just had a bad leak on one of the rear calipers and that's when all this nightmare started.

Thanks
Allcruisen
 

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Premium Member
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4,349 Posts
Not sure on determining if the master cylinder has went bad. Other than visually inspecting the side that goes in the booster you may have to part throw to find out if it's bad. Sometimes you have to start the engine to bleed a caliper if the bleeder is partially blocked with debris. Abs would throw a code if it's bad. Make sure you bleed in RR LR RF LF order. If booster was bad it would hiss at you in the cab while engine is running.
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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My other question now is: How can I tell if my master cyl. went bad? I don't see any leaks around it and it holds pressure when doing a pressure test. I are confused AF on this.
A master cylinder can fail & leak fluid past the piston & back into the reservoir. No signs of leaks, but obvious loss of braking. Sometimes, but not always, if you stomp on the pedal hard & fast it will hold a little, then creep down. Usually when that happens it's intermittent then gets worse over time. If it's already fully gone that method might not tell you anything.

I don't know anything about 4WABS, but a RABS valve on older Broncos has a bleeder that also needs to be bled. Does the 4WABS have a bleeder?
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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7,815 Posts
Looking forward to hearing the outcome on this. for sure post up
 

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Super Moderator
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Felix, do yourself a favor and get some auto bleeders..I have them on my Bronco and they work great..I've got a motive power bleeder as well, but don't use it any more now that I've got the auto bleeders..can't wait to hear how you like those one ton brakes.
 
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