so after all the rediculous brake questions i finally decided that i would take some pictures of this. This is brakes and wheel bearings. I will be adding the DRUM section tommorow.
Well here it goes.
OH: DISCLAIMER IM NOT A MECHANIC AND IF U LISTEN TO ME UR SHI$ MIGHT BREAK...good enough:shrug
off to the brakes
jack the front of the truck up AFTER chocking the wheels. Remove the wheels and tires
New rotors, pads, shoes, fuel filter, spring kit, wheel bearings and wheel seals. And a fuel filter
The cross drilled and slotted rotors from NAPA. More expensive by alot. But being a firefighter in a rural area a 7 mile pedal to the metal drive can get the brakes runnin good through turny roads. Needless to say they were glowing at times. So im upping to these hoping to keep cooler
remove the six hex head bolts from the cover so it can be removed. Remove it by pulling on it. BTW this is for manual locker removal only. Auto hubs are different
knock the pins through and slide the caliper off. You may need to use a c-clamp to compress the piston. Hang it out of the way with a bungee. DONT LET IT HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE
Cover removed. Remove the outer lock ring with a screw driver and the inner lock ring with a pair of snap ring pliers. You can get cheapy but handy snap ring pliers at NAPA for 3 bux.
outer snap ring and inner snap ring removed.
replace two of the screws from the cover you removed and use them as handles to slide the hub assembly out
next are the locking nuts. You need a special socket for these
4 tooth spanner socket available at any parts store
outer lock ring removed. This will be tight. Keep the ratchet straight you may need two people. I held it straight with one hand and hit the other with a hammer.
pry out the washer with the swiss cheese effect and then remove this inner nut.
now pull off the hub. Be ready to catch the outer wheel bearing!!!Spindle now exposed
next flip over the hub rotor assembly and pry off the wheel seal. I used a small screw driver and a hammer and tapped it out all the way around
remove the wheel seal. Now you have access to the inner wheel bearing. remove it
just for reference here is how those nuts and washer sit on the spindle inside the hub
hammer out the old bearing races. There is a lip for each one. I used a screwdriver.. A punch would have been wiser... Tap them out in a circle. Dont just drive one side out...it wont come out
both races removed. Now hammer..or should i say.. beat the wheel studs out. here you can see the back of them
with the wheel studs removed you can pry the hub apart from the rotor. They arent really pressed together at all. The wheel studs hold them together
seperated
get your new bearings and races ready. Install the new races. A little grease helps. They must be pounded in. The old races work for a great punch...
get your grease ready. BTW i like wearing latex gloves for this...keeps things so much cleaner... PACk the bearings, and when you think there full of grease. Pack them again
lay the bearings aside and lay the hub onto the new rotor. Now hammer the wheel studs back in. I used a BFH and a 6in 3/8 extension. I could not get them all the way tight though no matter how hard i hit them. The rotor would wiggle on the hub... so i got one of my old oem wheels out with the bald tires on it. Now lay the hub assembly on the back of the wheel. Just like the tire was going on the truck. Put your lug nuts on and get them tight. Now wedge the tire between your legs and get out your factory lug nut bar. Tighten them untill you cant move the wrnech anymore. I did this and it snugged them right up.:goodfinge
now lay the inner bearing in and install your new wheel seal. Just beat it on with a hammer until its tight
lay your inner bearing in..now reinstall the lock ring with the nipple first, then the washer. the washer slides ina channel and the nipple has to go through one of the holes. Then tighten down the outer lock nut. READ your haynes or chiltons for torque spec
reinstall the hub... almost there!!!!!!
reinstall the hub cover. Install the new hub and replace your calipers. NOW CLEAN THE ROTORS. lots of brake clean and wiping. The grease you got all over them wont help much:goodfinge Get you wheels on and your done
Now rinse and repeat for side 2:histerica
That just about covers it. I used brake cleaner and gasoline to completly clean the hubs out. Make sure you run a lighter through there when your done. You dont want anything flammable in there. PUMP YOUR BRAKE PEDAL. After compressing the caliper you have to pump the pedal a few times to get pressure back before you go driving down the street and realize you have no brakes:banghead
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/detail.php?id=9901&s=30187#content
good luck like i said drums will come tommorow
DC