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Brakes 101. 56k NO WAY! VERY LONG

15398 Views 20 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  masterbeavis
so after all the rediculous brake questions i finally decided that i would take some pictures of this. This is brakes and wheel bearings. I will be adding the DRUM section tommorow.

Well here it goes.


off to the brakes

jack the front of the truck up AFTER chocking the wheels. Remove the wheels and tires

New rotors, pads, shoes, fuel filter, spring kit, wheel bearings and wheel seals. And a fuel filter

The cross drilled and slotted rotors from NAPA. More expensive by alot. But being a firefighter in a rural area a 7 mile pedal to the metal drive can get the brakes runnin good through turny roads. Needless to say they were glowing at times. So im upping to these hoping to keep cooler

remove the six hex head bolts from the cover so it can be removed. Remove it by pulling on it. BTW this is for manual locker removal only. Auto hubs are different

knock the pins through and slide the caliper off. You may need to use a c-clamp to compress the piston. Hang it out of the way with a bungee. DONT LET IT HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE

Cover removed. Remove the outer lock ring with a screw driver and the inner lock ring with a pair of snap ring pliers. You can get cheapy but handy snap ring pliers at NAPA for 3 bux.

outer snap ring and inner snap ring removed.

replace two of the screws from the cover you removed and use them as handles to slide the hub assembly out

next are the locking nuts. You need a special socket for these

4 tooth spanner socket available at any parts store

outer lock ring removed. This will be tight. Keep the ratchet straight you may need two people. I held it straight with one hand and hit the other with a hammer.

pry out the washer with the swiss cheese effect and then remove this inner nut.

now pull off the hub. Be ready to catch the outer wheel bearing!!!Spindle now exposed

next flip over the hub rotor assembly and pry off the wheel seal. I used a small screw driver and a hammer and tapped it out all the way around

remove the wheel seal. Now you have access to the inner wheel bearing. remove it

just for reference here is how those nuts and washer sit on the spindle inside the hub

hammer out the old bearing races. There is a lip for each one. I used a screwdriver.. A punch would have been wiser... Tap them out in a circle. Dont just drive one side wont come out

both races removed. Now hammer..or should i say.. beat the wheel studs out. here you can see the back of them

with the wheel studs removed you can pry the hub apart from the rotor. They arent really pressed together at all. The wheel studs hold them together


get your new bearings and races ready. Install the new races. A little grease helps. They must be pounded in. The old races work for a great punch...

get your grease ready. BTW i like wearing latex gloves for this...keeps things so much cleaner... PACk the bearings, and when you think there full of grease. Pack them again

lay the bearings aside and lay the hub onto the new rotor. Now hammer the wheel studs back in. I used a BFH and a 6in 3/8 extension. I could not get them all the way tight though no matter how hard i hit them. The rotor would wiggle on the hub... so i got one of my old oem wheels out with the bald tires on it. Now lay the hub assembly on the back of the wheel. Just like the tire was going on the truck. Put your lug nuts on and get them tight. Now wedge the tire between your legs and get out your factory lug nut bar. Tighten them untill you cant move the wrnech anymore. I did this and it snugged them right up.:goodfinge

now lay the inner bearing in and install your new wheel seal. Just beat it on with a hammer until its tight

lay your inner bearing reinstall the lock ring with the nipple first, then the washer. the washer slides ina channel and the nipple has to go through one of the holes. Then tighten down the outer lock nut. READ your haynes or chiltons for torque spec

reinstall the hub... almost there!!!!!!

reinstall the hub cover. Install the new hub and replace your calipers. NOW CLEAN THE ROTORS. lots of brake clean and wiping. The grease you got all over them wont help much:goodfinge Get you wheels on and your done

Now rinse and repeat for side 2:histerica

That just about covers it. I used brake cleaner and gasoline to completly clean the hubs out. Make sure you run a lighter through there when your done. You dont want anything flammable in there. PUMP YOUR BRAKE PEDAL. After compressing the caliper you have to pump the pedal a few times to get pressure back before you go driving down the street and realize you have no brakes:banghead

good luck like i said drums will come tommorow

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u wore gloves in some of that. thats something ive never thought about. gee im dumb
yea i wore gloves through mostly all of it...a box of non-latex EMS gloves is like 12 bux...and some parts store sell them...i just had them around bc im an emt and always have them. they keep things so much cleaner...i went through about 25 pairs though...but didnt have to clean 1/4 inch of grease off the rotors when i was done
i mainly only took them off to take pictures

That is AWESOME. Thanks from a Bronco Newb.

And just a caution, drilled rotors have weaknesses under high stress/temp conditions, they crack. Just slotted ones are fine, but you shouldn't have any trouble, just a caution from a Mustang guy who's seen them crack.
aight we will see...i ahev some kind of like 24k warranty from napa or something like that...but yea ive heard that...i doubt ill have problems...but knowing that i may hold off the f350 brake upgrade ive been wanting to do

Slotted rotors do just as good of a job. For hipo race teams drilled is okay for one race, but they can afford to change them out all the time. They are a great performance part for those that can afford to deal with them, but for us plebes slotted are just as good :)
Good write up. I don't mean to bud in here, just one thing I'ld like to add about removing the wheel seal. So you don't have to buy a new seal every time you repack your wheel bearings, you use your wheel bearing locknut tool to drive out the inner wheel bearing along with the seal. Lay the tool/socket inside the hub from the outer side with the flat side resting against the bearings and hammer it out out using a punch or dowl. It's actually easier than forcing it out from the other side.
Good stuff, remember to take some brake fluid out of the resevoir before compressing the calipers.
FordBroncoLover said:
Good stuff, remember to take some brake fluid out of the resevoir before compressing the calipers.

If none was added between brake jobs, this step is not necessary. Its too much of a PITA anyhow.
83bronco5.0 said:
If none was added between brake jobs, this step is not necessary. Its too much of a PITA anyhow.
What is a PITA about taking the cap off of the master cylinder and using a turkey baster to remove fluid? :shrug

Better safe than sorry.
dunno..i wasnt even paying attention to that...i just wanted to get the front done i was losing light

question though... i found a decent amount of water in the drivers side which hasnt been opened since my warns went in 6 months ago...and the pass side had a little bit which was just opened up 2 months ago. anyone have any ideas on how to keep water out. the pass side got a new wheel seal also 2 months ago. maybe the orings around the warns are just shot

any ideas...the truck does mild 4 wheeling and a mud holes here or there

It is impossible to keep water out of the hubs if you submerge them in water. If you there are a couple of posts about it.
FordBroncoLover said:
Good stuff, remember to take some brake fluid out of the resevoir before compressing the calipers.
The correct thing to do is open your bleeder so that any dirt in there will come out instead of being forced back in the system and possibly causing premature failure of parts.
lol its a 91 BKO...ive been lasy and havent gotten started on the drums yet

soon..maybe tommorow. i ahve a feeling that i have a drivers side wheel cyclinder leak. So when i pull it apart i will be forced to do that...which is alot more work

DC - ill get to it
Great write up, if you don't mind could I get a price break down on parts? I need to install a set uf Warn Premuims and at the same time I am replacing the bearings and disks/pads.


bearings will run you about 25 bux for inner and outer. The wheel seal is like 4 bux. my rotors were $80/ea. Pads $40. Shoes $15..Spring kit $9.

i got my warn premiums off ebay for $25..they were used but hey if they ever break they have a lifetime warranty:shrug

DC...the rear drums are coming...i havent had time to get to it...and there is 6 more inches of snow dropping tommorow..

im sorry guys. its 13 degrees outside and i just havent been able to get to it. im working on it. hopefully this weekend ill have at it if i can get access to my buddies garage

sorry guys drums are done... i got last minute access to a garage and heat so i just did them and didnt have the digi cam available..i had never done rear brakes on a ford drum before... trust me guys it is so easy just do one at a time so you can you the other one for reference. Make sure to buy a drum brake tool at napa for 18 bux it will make life so much better

First time I changed my rotors yesterday and I have to say thanks for these pictures! Thanks. It's not a bad job to do if you have everything right there.
Found out why the right side would wear out pads faster then the left. The locking nut inside was loose and with the spanner socket it came out by hand so now it rolls and stops nicley. I found that if you stack both the old rotors on top of each other that you can drop the hub and new rotor on top and with some moly grease on the studs and a heavy sledge hammer and drift they will go back in with little effort and no harm to the new parts. Next weekend I wlll be changing calipers, brake lines and pins and I'll be good to go for some time.

Thanks again!
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