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Hey guys,
I've used this message board in the past for research for my line of work, seem like you guys really know your stuff, so I thought i'd roll a couple questions through you guys about reviving a '79 thats been sitting for about 8 or so years.

Just a little back story, back in 2004 or 2005, while i was in high school, my older sister was getting her masters degree in something or another, and she needed a vehicle for offroad. After looking at a few blazers and newer broncos, we found a guy that had this 79. He originaly wanted $1,000 for it. The only problem was that he had jack knifed a trailer, really messed up the rear quarter panels. At the time, I was taking vocational school for auto body. Long story short, he dug us and our situation, so sold it to us for $700 or $750, cant remember. Anyways, i replaced rear quarters, and gave it a whole paint job in a paint booth me and my dad built in our driveway with some PPG acrylic enamel(good stuff btw), came out really well all things considered. My sis dropped out of her program, so it became my camping rig until i went off to college. I had to leave it at my parents house when i left

This is where it gets fun. My father had a masters degree in electrical, as well as mechanical engineering. He loved the thing, but hated the mileage, and the "obnoxious" dual exhaust i put on it, . Pipes exited right behind the doors, it was. As well as the "primitive" battery isolator. He kinda got into the wiring, so thats an issue. Cant even get it to power up properly. Granted, I haven't really looked too much into that, my garage is hot as sin... He got the seats reupholstered with the original fabric, new carpets, kick panels, the whole shebang. The kicker tho, he decided he wanted to put fuel injection on it... This would have been about 2012. For some reason, he went with a digital Holley pro-jection 2bl setup that i think he got off ebay or some crap.

He got a lot of things in order for the system, dual 2.5 going thru a cat and coming at at 3, o2 sensor bung, weiland manifold. Got the electric pump plumped. He started getting dizzy working on it, so he put the whole project on the back-burner, and it sat until he passed in 2017. I finally got this thing out to my garage, and i'm wanting to get it running again, mainly so i can use it to pull my girls XJ out when she she gets it stuck on the trail.

So anyways, a couple questions,
1. The thing has sat, the oil on the dipstick is as amber as it could be, so im sure he had changed the oil before he got in this. But im still concerned about turning it over after it sitting for so long. Definanly dropping the pan and putting some fresh juice in it. My plan is to hit it with a pressure luber at about 50 psi while i slower turn the motor clockwise by hand, after sprayings some fogging oil in the cylinders. maybe pour strait oil through the rockers, just try to get as much lube in the old girl as possible before i turn it over. Any suggestions on oil? Im thinking a high zink oil, like the valvoline vr1, probably in 10w30 or maybe 20w50, but maybe thats too thick? Again, open to ideas.

2. The fuel system. I have read a ton on the holley pro-jection units. Most people have problems tuning them, especially the analog units. As of now, i just want it to move on its own power, so i can move it out of the garage to work on the XJ when she breaks it. I swear, for every hour offroad in that thing, its 5 hours of maintenance. But i digress... I really want to keep with the plan for fuel injection, so im really leaning against carbing it back up. But if I had to, ive been eyeballin the edelbrock avs2s and the spring-loaded needle and seats or the holley tuck avenger, 600 and 670 cfm, respectively, but i really dont want to drop that money into something im going to replace sooner than later. Any thoughts on a good off-road carb, try to make the system i have work, or is it bite the bullet, and run an msd atomic unit? Keep in mind, i just want to make sure everything powertrain-wise is fine before i drop a goodly sum of money

I'm sure there is plenty other things on this I could ask for advice, and i probably will. But for now, I just want to get some life back into this neglected chick magnet. Any thoughts/suggestions/comments are very welcome.

Thanks guys, and sorry for the excessively long post..
Peter

Oh, and when i repainted it, i stuck with the OE color codes of a 2 tone sand and marrone...
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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Here's my regular reply to the "long sitting" question. Please excuse the & paste.

28- I'm trying to start a vehicle that has been sitting for a long time. What should I do?

This is a combined reply from a few threads (Run it or Not? That's the question, Starting a Bronco after being stored for prolonged period, & Engine has sat for 2 years). There's more info in those threads from several members that you might want to check out too.

You should expect the compression to be low at first after sitting several years with no oil on the rings. Dry rings alone will drop the compression. You should squirt oil in all 8 before trying to crank it.

My dad is a guy for bringing those back to life. He had a garage when I was a kid, then taught auto shop for years, & was always trying to revive some old engine. His routine was to change the crankcase oil & filter, squirt a little Marvel Mystery Oil thru the plug holes, rotate the engine without starting it just enough to coat the cylinder walls, add a little more thru the plug holes, & let sit for a bit before firing it up. He'd run the engine easy for little awhile (Maybe 15 minutes to 1/2 hour?), then change the oil & filter again. Of course the 1st fire up would smoke a lot as the oil burned out of the cylinders. Sometimes he'd mix in a little ATF (1/2 quart at the most) with the crankcase oil in the 1st oil change to aid in cleaning if he thought the old oil looked especially bad. He'd drive it easy for few days, & make the call after that as to whether or not it needed more work or just another oil change. It would usually work out pretty good.

And of course, check all rubber parts for signs of cracking or stiffness. Tires, hoses, belts, wiring, & especially anything handling fuel.

Look for signs of animal damage. Chewed wiring, nesting material under the hood, along the exhaust, or even in the intake to the air cleaner. I've actually removed nuts stored by squirrels from inside an air cleaner.

Check the brakes. Low fluid is not unusual after sitting for awhile. If the master cylinder is dry, you will probably have to bleed the brakes. Check the brake hoses for cracking, stiffness or swelling. Check the entire system for leaks after topping off the master cylinder & stepping on the brakes several times. Also step lightly on the brakes & hold them to see if the master cylinder creeps down. Even after inspection, be sure that they're working right before driving. Try them in the driveway several times before taking it out. Expect the brake drums & rotors to have some surface rust, but that's usually light enough to come off after a few stops. But the brakes might be prone to grab or pull until it's gone. Depending where & how long it was stored, the rust might be more serious. It's not a bad idea to check the condition of the pads & shoes anyway, you can see how much rust there is at that point. Does the parking brake work & release? Lube its cables while you're at it.

Check all the fluids. A radiator flush with a change of coolant is a good idea too.

There is also the condition of the fuel to be considered. Sometimes it has sat so long that the tank & components have a build up of varnish that requires removal, cleaning, or replacement. If you decide to not remove & replace/clean fuel system components, here's a routine for a carbureted engine when the fuel isn't that bad. If marginally bad fuel is suspected, disconnect the fuel line at the carb & run a fuel hose from a small gas tank sitting on a blanket on the roof. I have used a lawnmower tank for years, & recently got a small boat tank for the job. So you have known good fuel & positive gravity feed to the carb for the first fire up. If there is a fuel issue at that point, you know the carb itself has the problem. Also remove & plug the fuel line before the fuel pump so you don't have to deal with it pumping bad gas just yet. Even so, still direct the output line from the pump safely into a container in case there's a little fuel in the pump. I like to run a hose to a can on the ground. Later the input to the pump can be reconnected, the line from the pump can be used to empty what you couldn't get out of the tank, & flush a little new gas through the system into the gas can while the engine is run from the temp tank. All of this requires attention to fire prevention (Being sure that nothing is going to pump, leak, or drip fuel anywhere & that anything spilled while making connections is wiped up, dried, & the rags removed from the area & allowed to dry before throwing or washing) since the engine will be run while some lines are disconnected.

If you are inexperienced or don't feel confident about taking on this type of work, seek advice from a local experienced person, or take it to a shop to do the work.
 

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Change all the fluids and monitor all the vitals when you start it
Every weak point will show
I would pull the motor, transmission and the transfer case, then check the front and rear axles.
 

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You are over thinking it
Squirt some oil in the spark plug holes and start it up
If you are needlessly worried about the oil pull the distributor and prime the engine with a power drill on the oil pump drive shaft
Or just spin it with a speed wrench.
It will build oil pressure if all is well
Most likely your problem will be crystallized fuel in the tank
 

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Yo Peter,
Welcome!
My condolences to you and your family on the loss of your father.
Ford 1979 Bronco/F Series Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual via Ziggy⚠⚠⚠ @
1979 Ford Bronco Wiring Manual pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net
It shows Electrical component location, operation, troubleshooting, with wiring and vacuum diagrams.

1979 Ford Bronco Wiring Schematics, Connector Pin-outs, etc by Ranger429 @ 79 wiring schematics

1979 Bronco Brochure @ http://www.auto-brochures.com/makes/Ford/Bronco/Ford_US Bronco_1979.pdf

1979 Ford Bronco vs. Blazer Article by Ford via Indybronco @ 1978 Ford Bronco Bronco vs. Blazer (79) pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

Ford Shop Manual Diagrams: 1978-1979 Full Size Shop Manuals, partial @ Technical Diagrams Archives
My Tablet takes hours to download, so try the first in this list as long as you have Adobe Acrobat 9 or later installed.
Includes:
Wiring Manuals & Diagrams Download PDF
This complete manual for the 1972-1979 Ford Bronco Includes Rear Lights Diagram
Motor Manuals & Diagrams Download PDF
This complete manual for the 1972-1979 Ford Bronco Includes Air Cleaner Diagram
Chassis Manuals & Diagrams Download PDF
This complete manual for the 1972-1979 Ford Bronco Includes '78 Brakes Diagram, Gas Tank Setup Diagram
Body Manuals & Diagrams Download PDF This complete manual for the 1972-1979 Ford Bronco Includes; Upper Body Diagram, Front Clip Diagram, heater Ducts Diagram, Tailgate Diagram, Console Diagram, Front Clip Diagram, Grill Setup Diagram, Heater Controls Diagram, Interior Trip Diagram, Rear Sheetmetal Diagram, Tiltwheel Diagram, Tire Rack
Let me know if the downloads are worth the effort.

See Bubba's M-Block Ford V8 Workshop by Dave Resch

Partial Chilton Manual for 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981 Bronco. Scanned by broncocity.com @ Bronco City

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as 1978-'79 Bronco Tech that requires 30 posts to view or post) or 1978-'79 Bronco Tech, Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view), etc.

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Signature with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.

Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.

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➡ Try to find time to participate in and Vote in our current Full-Size of the Quarter Contest & later, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
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Al
 
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