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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,170 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So, I keep finding things that need to be done after sitting for 3+ years.

The list so far:

Fuel gauge doesn't work
Overheating issue
Transmission revs higher than normal before shifting
Driver's door power lock is dead
All windows are stuck in the 'up' position (Thank god for the wing windows!)
Replace stolen radio
Wiper motor
Wiper fluid pump
Address exterior rust

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After sitting for 3 years, I started working to get the rig ('90, 351) back on the road. From the dash gauge, I thought the tank was empty, but it topped off after about 3 gallons.

I've siphoned out about 30 - 31 gallons of old fuel that I'll use up later after I get a clean smog check. Since it's almost empty, right now would be a good time to address that gauge problem.

Is there a way to determine before dropping the tank what the issue might be? ...or at least rule out some things?
 
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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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36,525 Posts
Jeff's been around enough to know this old chestnut...




JBG sells patch panels... for the more reasonably sized access hole. :toothless

I would assume 3 years of sitting... the pump's fuel level sender's probably just gummed up with old goop from the ethanol.
@Steve83 used to sell patch panels too... but he was finally banned. Here's a link to his Supermotors writeup on the level sender though: 1983 Ford Bronco Fuel Level Sender Repair pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

(same source @Rusty in Wis gave, I think.)
 

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Yo Iolaus,
Testing in a 90; from 90 EVTM;
With the sending unit float arm in the empty stop position, resistance should be 15 ohms (below E).
With the sending unit float arm in the full stop position, resistance should be 160 ohms (above F).
The fuel gauge should read empty at 22.5 ohms and full at 145 ohms.

1990 Bronco Pre-Delivery Shop & Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting Manual (EVTM), Partial by member Kingfish999 in Google Drive @ https://drive.google.com/drive/mobile/folders/0BzRTW4yeT2u4UkhzR0ZydDd3MzA?usp=sharing&tid=0BzRTW4yeT2u4NXB6NW5neFRoZGc
Page 60+ has wiring diagrams, etc

Slow scrolling for my pathetic Comcast Highest Cost Blast Internet.
Find page # of item desired in contents, then flip screen flip down like spinning a bearing then stopping periodically to see what page you are on.

Since gauge shows empty, as Pepe` advised, a gas-logged float is usual perpetrator, followed by yellow/white short.
LMC part #30392 or at https://shop.broncograveyard.com/Sending-Units/products/1509/ OR NPD,
Or Motorcraft COAZ-9202-B
 

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251 Posts
ABSOLUTELY REPLACE THE FLOAT while you're in there. Also clean the float sweep contacts and make sure the slide arm contact is pressing hard enough on the variable resistor sweep, if not, bend it a little and test thoroughly for proper function BEFORE reinstalling.

From a previous post I made in another thread:
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/7-1980-96-bronco-tech/447705-fuel-gauge-not-coming-off-e-signs-bad-float.html#post6419153

"After taking the tank out of my 1993 Bronco for the third time to replace the brass float, I bought a handful of other floats via eBay and checked each one for proper fitment. I can verify that each of the following fit and work perfectly on the stock Ford sender float arm. I ended up putting the solid version in the tank when putting it together for the last time and still have the other parts set aside for future projects.

Searching eBay or Google for any of the following will get you what you need. If you have any questions, PM me."

Omix-Ada 17729.01 (Jeep 55-83 Cj5 68-75 Cj6 76-86 Cj7)
Fuel Sender Float Jeep: 17729.01
Fits Following Models:CJ3 / CJ5 / CJ5 / CJ6 / CJ5 / CJ7 / CJ7 CJ-2. CJ-2 / CJ-3. CJ-3. CJ-3 / CJ-5


Fuel Tank Float, Solid Design, Ford & Mercury, 1959-1972
Brand: Premier Quality Products
Model Year Range: 1957 - 1959 Full Size Ford
Manufacturer Part Number: 49-44345-1


Stewart Warner Manufacturer Part Number: 68-9275-S
For all 49-72 Ford, Mercury & Lincoln models


Fuel Tank Float, Solid Design, Ford & Mercury, 1959-1972 41-88693-1
Ford Falcon 1959-1972
Brand: Premier Quality Products
Manufacturer Part Number: 41-88693-1
 

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Driving Stuff Henry Built
-90 xlt, 351w, e4od, man 1356, 3.55, sag, warn hubs, 35s. -73, 400, np435, d20j twin, 35s
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8,078 Posts
Jeff's been around enough to know this old chestnut...




JBG sells patch panels... for the more reasonably sized access hole. :toothless

I would assume 3 years of sitting... the pump's fuel level sender's probably just gummed up with old goop from the ethanol.
@Steve83 used to sell patch panels too... but he was finally banned. Here's a link to his Supermotors writeup on the level sender though: 1983 Ford Bronco Fuel Level Sender Repair pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

(same source @Rusty in Wis gave, I think.)
I also did both Steve83's access panel & sender cleanup. They worked pretty well. Especially when I didn't get the gasket seated right on the tank & it leaked at the next fill up. :brownbag I was a happy man not having to drop the full tank to get to it. Steve has the cutting measurements in here: https://www.supermotors.net/registry/2742/33276-2

And here are the cheapie stops I used to keep from drilling too deep: https://www.supermotors.net/registry/15781/82519-2

As for the panel itself I cut one out of a jy Bronco. As long as I had it I checked the rib pattern against the bed of a similar year pickup & found it also matched, if that's easier to get to. By cutting my own I was able to cut it oversize at the yard & cut it down as needed at home. I used to suggest buying Steve's panels instead to avoid the hassle, but it has been reported by reliable sources that his aren't always square. You'll also need some dum-dum (Non-drying sealant) for the panel.

Btw Jeff, it's good to see you back around. How are you & yours doing?
 

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You can buy the panels from solo motorsports as well. Not sure on the price but they fit pretty good. Good preventative measure Incase your fuel pump takes a dump on the trail.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,170 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for all the advice. Given the amount of stuff to look at, I think I'm going to first try getting the smog test done now, while the project is fresh; then get to this stuff afterward. If it doesn't pass, well, this will still need to be done anyway.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,170 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
It passed! However, it was running hot the whole way, and boiled over when I pulled into my driveway! It ran fine at idle in my driveway. Looks like the next job is a thermostat!
 

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Yo Iolaus,
Damaged thermostat.
Damaged water pump.
Cooling fan inoperative.
Plugged radiator.

CHECK THERMOSTAT OPERATION
Allow engine to run for 10 minutes.
Feel the inlet and outlet heater water hose and the underside of the upper radiator hose.
Are the upper radiator hose and heater water hoses cold?
Yes REPLACE water thermostat.

No; Did cooling fan clutch operate OK?
Yes
CHECK the following:
Rust or scale in radiator
Water pump shaft and impeller
Collapsed lower hose

BTW Jeff, while you were away, we here decided to pull out of the Top 4x4 "contest" and concentrate on our Full-Size of the Month (F.O.T.M.) & Full-Size of the Year (F.O.T.Y.) Contests.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,170 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I replaced the thermostat, just because it was an easy job to do. I tested it first. It's a 195*, and it popped open just short of a rolling boil. I had an instant thermometer in the water... poured in some cold water and saw it close somewhere in the high 180s.

The rig still seems to me to be running hot. It's been a while, but I don't think the gauge was 1/2-2/3 over; I seem to remember it staying below halfway - closer to 1/3-1/2.

In other news, I got the tags from the DMV (Well... AAA, but whatever), so I can legally test it on the road now!
 
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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #13
So it's time again... I done a bad thing. After getting tags, I just let it sit - with plain water in the system, so I'm sure there's rust issues.

I hooked up the hose to the heater line flush valve and rinsed out a ton of rusty water. Ran a small jug of flush through the system for a while. Ran fine at idle and 1500 for 10 minutes or so; but as I held it at around 2500 RMP, it started to heat up, and then boiled over when I shut it down. I've since drained it, and will pull hoses and check all the ins and out for constrictions tomorrow. Then I'll take a look at the list of stuff Miesk5 posted.


Oh, and I did get a panel for the access port, but I never got any further on that either. I really kinda feel guilty about keeping her like this, but I can't bring myself to get rid of her.
 

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[QUOTE="Iolaus, post: 7313892, . I really kinda feel guilty about keeping her like this, but I can't bring myself to get rid of her.
[/QUOTE]
Yo Iolaus,
I feel the pain.
 

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Premium 4 Lyfe - Way Back Staff
'95 XLT: 5.8, MAF, E4OD, 4.56's, 6" on 33's
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It's a sickness. Nice to see ya swinging by though.
 

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Charlie don't surf..
'92 Ford Bronco XLT
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yeah you're going to have to flush the hell out of it..might even be worthwhile to put an inline filter somewhere on the cooling system to catch all that s**t..I think @pfun41 added one to his rig.
 

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Bronkin' 'Round!
94 XLT 351 E4OD 4" Superlift 88 XLT AOD about to put on 4" Pro Comp lift
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2,851 Posts
I used Oxalic acid as a radiator flush on my 94 before I replaced the water pump, hoses, thermostat, intake heater tube, etc, etc. It cleaned out all the rust of the cooling system and promptly stained my driveway with it. All from sitting as well. At least I drained the coolant on the 88 when my intake reseal became a 3-year long project so its not so bad. Gonna do the same flush on my 69 F-250 this weekend. I have too much crap...
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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21,170 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
CHECK THERMOSTAT OPERATION
Allow engine to run for 10 minutes.
Feel the inlet and outlet heater water hose and the underside of the upper radiator hose.
Are the upper radiator hose and heater water hoses cold?
Yes REPLACE water thermostat.
Upper radiator hose and heater hoses were hot.

No; Did cooling fan clutch operate OK?
Not sure how to tell. It was spinning, and while it could have been my imagination, it seemed to be spinning faster after it was hot. Trying to spin it with the hot engine shut off results in about a third of a spin before stopping.

CHECK the following:
Rust or scale in radiator
Water pump shaft and impeller
Collapsed lower hose
Lower hose is fine.
Hard to tell when topped off, but I could see some water flow when the level was a little lower. I assume that means the water pump is circulating water.
I guess that leaves rust or scale in the radiator?
Could the water pump be working, but inefficient in its function somehow?

I know it's overkill, but what would a complete rebuild of the cooling system entail?
Boil out or replace the radiator,
Pull and check/replace the water pump
Replace thermostat
Replace fan clutch?

...and as I just saw in Clarco's post, all the hoses?
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #19
I used Oxalic acid as a radiator flush on my 94 before I replaced the water pump, hoses, thermostat, intake heater tube, etc, etc. It cleaned out all the rust of the cooling system and promptly stained my driveway with it. All from sitting as well. At least I drained the coolant on the 88 when my intake reseal became a 3-year long project so its not so bad. Gonna do the same flush on my 69 F-250 this weekend. I have too much crap...
How much, and what was your technique for application?
 

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Bronkin' 'Round!
94 XLT 351 E4OD 4" Superlift 88 XLT AOD about to put on 4" Pro Comp lift
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I know it's overkill, but what would a complete rebuild of the cooling system entail?
Boil out or replace the radiator,
Pull and check/replace the water pump
Replace thermostat
Replace fan clutch?

...and as I just saw in Clarco's post, all the hoses?
And the heater core.


How much, and what was your technique for application?
I think it was a pound. It comes as a powder. I’ll look up the exact method when I get home but I put a big funnel in the radiator neck, dumped the powder into it, poured water over it to dissolve and fill cooling system, get it up to operating temp and run for like 15-20 mins, flush out old gross stuff, fill again with water and soda ash or baking soda to neutralize, water flush again, do cooling system work, refill with coolant and water. I love my Edelbrock water pumps. I did the Taurus fan on the 88 but haven’t yet on the 94.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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