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Bronkin' 'Round!
94 XLT 351 E4OD 4" Superlift 88 XLT AOD about to put on 4" Pro Comp lift
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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #124
What’s wrong with the NAPA Echlin floats? I’ve been using them for years without issue.
I didn't think to check with NAPA. Found the strainer on their website, but not the float.
 

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Seeking Tanelorn
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Discussion Starter #125
Okay... so I got the strainer, float, and new gasket ring for the tank. Put it all together, and the gauge no longer sits at "E." It's at an 8th; but then, I was just guessing at the level. I'll know better when I fill it up.

I read that before closing it up, I should seal up the connections with dielectric grease? What I thought was a tube of dielectric grease in the tool box is actually battery anti-corrosion grease.

167570


Is that the same thing with a different name, or should I run over to the parts store for a tube that actually says dielectric grease on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #127
I ran over to the parts store and got some dielectric grease, and then sealed up the connector on the fuel pump assembly - calling it done. Painted the bed patch, and after it cures a couple of days, I'll run some strip calk along the edges and screw it down.

A couple of days ago I was filling the radiator with the motor running. At first, it would overflow and then drop; after that, it seemed like the level just kept slowly dropping. It took a while, but it finally stopped. I'm hoping it was just getting bubbles out of the system?

I ran the engine up to operating temps for a while today while watching the overflow; it didn't show bubbles, and the temp never got past the "O" in NORMAL on the gauge. Ran it up to 1500, 2000, and 2500 for 5 minutes each, and it barely budged. Gonna do it again, but I think may be ready for the final flush and 50/50 coolant.

Still waiting for my tags, so I don't want to run it the street yet. Hopefully driving won't reveal more problems there, and I'll be able to address some other concerns.
 

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Discussion Starter #128
Got my tags and did some driving around the local area; seems to be happy. Did another chemical flush after bypassing the rust-clogged tube and tying the throttle body coolant line into the heater hose. Because of time constraints, I had to make do with some chrome T-housing with a rubber gasket that didn't work (ended up using an old standard gasket with it) in order to get smogged. I replaced the chrome T-housing with the housing of my choice (has a port I intend to eventually use for a temp gauge) and filled it up with some generic 50/50. I know I'll have to work some bubbles out of the system over the next day or two, but I think that the cooling system is now up to speed.

Tank gauge seems to be working, and I primed and painted the raw edges of the access and the scratches on the tank (from the jig saw) yesterday. I'll seal all that up tomorrow.
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There's a lot to work on, but in terms of safe operation, I think I should address the braking system next. It hasn't been flushed since I got it, meaning the fluid is 20 years old. The shoes are 10ish years old, and the drums/rotors were rusty and pitted last I looked. I'm not sure what the lines look like, but I should probably have them inspected by someone who knows. I'm running 35s, and thinking that I should consider optimizing what I have. Not considering a wholesale replacement, but thinking about reasonable upgrades.
 

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Bronkin' 'Round!
94 XLT 351 E4OD 4" Superlift 88 XLT AOD about to put on 4" Pro Comp lift
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2,851 Posts
Rock Auto has drum/shoe and rotor/pad kits that have good parts and are affordable. The rotor kit is cheaper than the drum kit even but you have to press in the wheel studs back into the rotor and hub.



https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/lisle-4148/tools---equipment-16488/tire---wheel-tools-25457/tire---wheel-tools-19038/846a90f25bc3/lisle-stud-installer/22800/4413574This guy available oreilly’s is great with your impact, just make sure studs are seated all the way.
Braided brake hoses are about $120 online for a set of three.

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