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Discussion Starter #1
So I took off my bezzle today because my headlight was loose, while I was tightening the top right side where the adjusting screw is I cracked the mounting tab at the top. Doesnt seem like a huge problem as the bracket is sandwiched between rubber, but I just wanted other oppinions. Should I plastic weld the top or just leave it as is?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
k Thanks man! Its actually an aftermarket peice... The PO said they were about 5 years old.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
No not the bezel, the actual mounting tab of the headlight. Ill take a picture tomorrow and post.
 

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yo;

Adustment Info in a 95; "...I put the same lens as Silent One in my 95. Mine came complete with all hardware except the 6 retaining clips (3 per side). Take some advice if you decide to go this way.... use the old hardware(adjusting srews/collars) from your factory lights if its not shot. The hardware that came with mine, while all nice, shiny and new, was not quite to spec. In short it was rather...."sloppy", allowing the lens's to jiggle around a fair bit. The other thing about the original hardware is that the end of the Left/Right the adjusting screws are hex headed, like the up/down adjuster....the hardware that came with my new lenses was just threaded all the way down. The factory hardware will take a 4mm open end wrench, so that should you need to adjust the lights left or right at some point in the future, you can do so easily by removing the rubber vanity shield between the rad support and the plastic grille frame and using a 4mm box wrench or (forgive me) a set of pliers instead of having to go throught the pain of removing the lens bezel to use a phillips head screwdriver on the hardware that comes with the clear lenses.Either way you go, when replacing the lenses I would suggest removing the grill frame. Its less painful to replace the lenses this way, but it does take a few extra minutes. Look through miesk5s link...the clips the guy shows are a pain in the arse to remove. And, with the lens in the car, the clips are very hard to get to as well. To remove those clips without destroying them you need to wedge a set of snap ring pliers down a very narrow gap to hold the clips open while pulling/prying on the clip tab with another set of pliers. Very difficult to do in the limited space available when the lenses are in the car. Much less painful to do with the grill frame out as the lens mount to the grill frame. And to remove the grill frame only requires taking out 15 more fasteners than you already have to remove. 5 screws to remove the grill and 10 10mm or 11mm (I forget which off the top of my head) bolts to remove the grill frame. As an added bonus, the grill frame is 'keyed'(locator holes on the frame slide over pins on the rad support) so there is no adjustment necessary when you put it back on...it slides right back into the exact same spot it was in originally. Regardless, if you replace the lenses you still have to remove the bezels whether you take the grill frame out or not... but thats another pain all its own..."
Source: by turpit at FSB

Parts Break-Out Diagram in 92-96

IF THE IMAGE IS TOO SMALL, click it.

1 U-Nut (5 Req'd) N806851-S100 (#8 sheet metal)
2 Radiator Air Deflector 8326 (conceals headlight vertical adjusting screw)
3 Screw and Washer (6 Req'd) 6.0-8.0 N-m (53-71 In-Lb) N805230-S55 (6mm)
4 Radiator Grille 8200
5 Radiator Grille Opening Panel Reinforcement 8A284
6 U-Nut (7 Req'd) N623332-S100 (6mm)
7 Front Bumper Stone Shield 17778
8 Front Bumper Stone (RH) Deflector Filler 17E902
8 Front Bumper Stone (LH) Deflector Filler 17E940
9 Screw (5 Req'd) 1.0-2.0 N-m (9-18 In-Lb) N801603-S55 (#8 sheet metal)
10 Blue Oval
11 Radiator Support 16138
12 Hood Latch Support Brace 16864
13 U-Nut (2 Req'd Each Side) N805889-S100 (6mm)
14 Screw and Washer (4 Req'd Each Side) 9-14 N-m (80-124 In-Lb) N805230-S55 (6mm)
15 Radiator Grille Opening Panel Bracket 8C142
16 Headlamp Door 13043
17 Park Bulb #916 (2 Req'd) 13N019
18 Turn/Park Bulb #3157K (2 Req'd) 13465
19 Headlamp Assembly 13005 Bulb #9007 (2 Req'd)
20 Side Marker Bulb #194NA (2 Req'd) 13465
21 Headlamp Bulb Retainer (2 Req'd) 13N019
22 Headlamp Retainer Clip (3 Req'd Each Side) 13N020
23 Screw (2 Req'd Each Side) 1.4-2.3 N-m (13-20 In-Lb) N80 1603-S55 (#8 sheet metal)
24 J-Nut (2 Req'd Each Side) N806851-S100 (#8 sheet metal)
25 Nut and Washer (2 Req'd Each Side) 4-7 N-m (36-61 In-Lb) N62 1906-S55M (6mm thread, 11mm hex)
26 Wiring Assembly 12A581
27 Headlamp Adjusting Nut (part of 13005, 3 Req'd Each Side)
28 Headlamp Horizontal Adjusting Screw (part of 13005) sets side-to-side aim

To replace a headlight (#19), open the hood & pull out the rubber filler (#2) between the core support (#11) & grille reinforcement (#5). Use snap ring pliers or a long pick to release the 3 metal clips (#22) on the splined plastic adjuster nuts (#27). They're VERY difficult, but ultimately, they just have to slide straight up. A prybar of flat screwdriver may help. Then pull the headlight (#19) out of the grille, unplug the bulb (or remove it if you want to reuse your bulbs), and discard the h/l. Tuck the connector (or bulb) back inside the grille and inspect the new headlight. One of the adjuster nuts has NO adjuster bolt (top outboard). Place the h/l fully into place (aligning the splined nuts with the holes), but DON'T install the bulb/connector or clips. Note the fore/aft position of the corner of the h/l closest to the NON-adjustable nut. Remove the h/l and adjust that nut by hand so that corner of the h/l is flush with the grille when fully installed. It will take a few tries. Once you're satisfied, install the bulb/connector, put the h/l into place, and install the clips. Then aim the h/l using a 4mm socket per this diagram:


Adjustment in 80-86 & 92-96; "...'87-91 is essentially the same as '92-96. The '92-96 horizontal adjustment is hidden under a rubber seal between the grille opening reinforcement & the core support. NOTE: Sagging springs, faulty wheel alignment or improper tracking of the rear axle may affect headlamp aim. Before making any adjustments on headlamp (13008 ), perform the following preparatory steps: Remove ice or mud from under fenders. Make sure that all tires are inflated to recommended pressures. Make sure there is no load in the vehicle other than the fuel tank half full. Clean lenses and aiming pads. Check for headlamp bulb (13007) burn-out and proper beam switching. Verify that lamp output is well toward normal new lamp value. Bounce the vehicle and allow to settle. For aerodynamically styled headlamps, set the non-adjustable corner (outboard top) so the face of the lens corner is flush with the headlight door. Rotunda Headlamp Aiming Kit 196-00001 or equivalent. To aim the aerodynamically styled headlamps, the adjustable aimer adapters provided in the kit must be used. Adjustment aimer adapter positions are moulded into the bottom edge of the headlamp lens. Set and lock the adjustable adapters, attach each adapter to its mechanical aimer and aim headlamps per latest instructions in the kit. The equipment in Rotunda Headlamp Aiming Kit 196-00001 or equivalent can be calibrated to accommodate a slight slope in the floor, making it usable almost anyplace in the garage. However, the area must be reasonably flat. Alternate Aiming Method; On a dark, straight, flat road with no traffic, stop the vehicle without steering, keeping the vehicle aligned with its lane. With the headlamps on, open the hood for adjuster access and block one headlamp so the other's beam is apparent. Adjust the visible beam to strike near the horizon directly ahead of itself, using the lane lines as guides. Repeat for the other headlamp. NOTE: Access holes are provided to allow headlamp adjustment without removing the headlamp door (13064). For sealed-beam (glass) lamps, always bring each beam into final position by turning the headlamp adjusting screw (13032) clockwise so that the headlamp will be held against the tension springs when the operation is completed..."

Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/895001
Source: by Steve83 (Steve, That dirty old truck) at SuperMotors.net
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so I have been super sick lately and havent gotten outta bed... this is the first time Ive even been on the computer in a few days... the tab is the one on the bottom pic of the last post. Its the one that has the arrow that says align to headlight door. its just a crack from the top goin down to the rubber part thats all. Good thing is it doesnt wiggle, I just want to strengthen it up incase I take a huge bump and really break it. I dunno...
 
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