[TheRazor375]

Hey the water pump began leaking on my 302 so what I though was going to be a simple pump change turned into a headache. Both bottom bolts of the water pump broke at the beginning of the threads. I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck extracting them or drilling without removing the timing chain cover.

Or should I be looking at pulley puller tools tomorrow.

 

[fordbronco1995]

Hey the water pump began leaking on my 302 so what I though was going to be a simple pump change turned into a headache. Both bottom bolts of the water pump broke at the beginning of the threads. I'm wondering if anyone has had any luck extracting them or drilling without removing the timing chain cover.

Or should I be looking at pulley puller tools tomorrow.

if they are broken below the surface of the timing cover it will have to come off

 

[TheRazor375]

They are both broken about 2-3 inches deep in the timing cover. The one on the left was turning when it broke so I can probably get it with an extractor but the one on the right snapped before it ever broke loose. Felt the bolt flexing with my ratchet then went back to tighten it and it made that dreadful snap sound. The bolt that I see everyone break in videos I used my torch on to break it free since I didnt want to cut the timing cover to get it out if that one broke.

 

[GetBent4x4]

Corrosion happens in the timing cover area that surrounds the bolt. Only way to remove the broken stud is to remove the timing cover. Unless you can weld a nut onto the stud then unbolt it that way. If you remove the timing cover you will probably end up destroying the timing cover near the bolt.

The lower intake loves to do this as well. The 4 corner bolts on the lower intake you must weld a x onto the head of the bolts to loosen the bolts. You will need new hardware for both and lots of anti seize applied to the hardware.

 

[WoodGuy]

You can turn this headache into a positive spin. While the timing cover is off you will get a chance to check the timing chain and replace if necessary . At least that's how I viewed it when it happened to me.

 

[TheRazor375]

Yeah I know the chain probably has some slack by now and it leaks oil in the front so it wouldn't hurt taking it off. I still use my truck as a daily driver for work so didn't plan on this turning into a bigger job. Looking at the parts most are going to have to be special ordered then I'm left with the decision on towing it to a shop or trying to do it myself next weekend. I might be that guy towing a truck in pieces to a shop.

 

[miesk5]

Yo Razor,
FYI, Following from 96 Bronco/F Series Workshop Manual, partial by Ford @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual

Section 03-01B: Engine, 5.0L and 5.8L MFI

1996 F-150, F-250, F-350 and Bronco Vehicles Equipped with 5.0L or 5.8L MFI Engines Workshop Manual​

IN-VEHICLE SERVICE
Water Pump

Removal

1. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03.

1. Remove drive belt (8620).

1. Loosen the bolts on the fan clutch (8A616).

1. Remove the bolts securing the fan shroud (8146) to the radiator (8005). Remove the fan shroud.

1. Disconnect the lower radiator hose (8286), heater water hose (18472) and water bypass tube (8548) at the water pump (8501). Remove water pump pulley (8509).

1. Remove power steering and A/C bracket bolts and position bracket out of way.

1. Remove water pump attaching bolts and remove water pump from engine (6007).

Installation

1. CAUTION: Do not use solutions such as brake cleaner, carburetor cleaner, etc., as these solutions can leave a residue on the machined surfaces. Use only a cleaner which meets or exceeds Ford specification WSE-M5B392-A, such as Metal Surface Cleaner F4AZ-19A536-RA or equivalent.
   NOTE: Before a water pump is installed, check it for damage. If it is damaged, replace it.
   Remove all gasket material from the mounting surfaces of the engine front cover (6019) and water pump.

1. Position a new gasket, coated on both sides with Ford Perfect Seal Sealing Compound F2AZ-19554-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESE-M4G115-A or ESR-M18P2-A, on the engine front cover; then install the water pump.

1. Install the attaching bolts. Tighten bolts to 20-28 Nm (15-21 lb-ft).

1. Install the fan shroud, lower radiator hose, heater water hose and water bypass tube. Tighten clamps to 3-4 Nm (27-35 lb-in).

1. Reposition power steering and A/C bracket. Install power steering and A/C bracket bolts. Tighten bolts securely.

1. Position water pump pulley on hub.

1. Install the fan blade (8600) and fan shroud assembly to the water pump pulley. Install and tighten bolts to 16-24 Nm (12-18 lb-ft).

1. Install the drive belt. Refer to routing decal.

1. Fill and bleed the cooling system. Refer to Section 03-03. Operate the engine until normal operating temperatures have been reached and check for leaks.

 

[NYFSB]

Yeah I know the chain probably has some slack by now and it leaks oil in the front so it wouldn't hurt taking it off. I still use my truck as a daily driver for work so didn't plan on this turning into a bigger job. Looking at the parts most are going to have to be special ordered then I'm left with the decision on towing it to a shop or trying to do it myself next weekend. I might be that guy towing a truck in pieces to a shop.

I was in the same boat but I was glad I pulled the timing cover off as I wouldn't have seen how much slack was in the timing chain and truck ran so much better with new chain. You're right there, so now is definitely the time to look at that chain..
If I was in your shoes and had to wrap this up I would heat it up and get/use a Screw Extractor with a Guide so you can assure your centered in the hole. Since the broken bolt is so close to the threads the heat has less area to travel you should be able to get it out and save the cover. I was able to get a broken bolt out using the "bolt buster" induction tool, it almost felt like it was hand tightened after I got it red hot..

 

[CDA 455]

I broke two bolts removing the old water pump.
Removed one broken piece completely and decided the other broken piece was small/short enough (about 25% of the bolt length) to just leave it.

Completed said water pump swap; still working three years later.🤓😎

 

[Bribri]

The old SBF curse. Broken water pump bolts and intake bolts, im in process of rebuilding a 94 f4te block and had to cut the timing cover off when the two top bolts sheared the heads, the bolts had fused to the cover completely and I sliced the ears down the length of bolt holes in cover and even then took a bit of persuasion to break the corrosion loose from bolts. Once I had cover off trimmed bolts about an inch from block and welded nuts on end of stud and they came right out and threads are perfect. I broke 3 of the 4 corner bolts on the intake as well and two came out using nut welded on broken bolt and one had to be drilled out, when I go to reassemble it I will use anti sieze on threads and rtv where the bolt heads go into aluminum to help with moisture wicking into cavities. Also gonna make sure to fill the backside of threads on heads where the four corner bolts go all the way through and are exposed to environment.

 

[TheRazor375]

I messed with the bolt extractor for about 3 hours and the studs wouldn't budge an inch after heat and a lot of PB blaster so I'm moving on to removing the timing chain cover. Took out the radiator and the crank pulley. My battery impact wrench isn't enough to take off the main crank bolt though.

My question is do I have to do any cutting on the timing chain cover if the 2 bolts that broke are the 2 bottom water pump bolts. They are right under the water jacket on both sides of the block.

 

[Bribri]

It should come off, from what ive read having to cut is rare. Tbh you probably want to go ahead and get a shiny new cover and save yourself alot of effort cleaning up old one and getting gasket surface back to flat, most likely both block and cover are pitted and need some love. Most time scotch Brite cleans it up but I've used jb weld before to fill pits in and then block sanded. I also like to file check flatness of all gasket surfaces and use appropriate dressing. Also note when reinstalling g cover to make sure balancer is installed and sealed while cover is loose so it centers the seal on the crank.

 

[GetBent4x4]

Try and remove the timing cover first before damaging it. If it wont remove then you know you have to damage the timing cover.

 

[Stevo440]

It should come off, from what ive read having to cut is rare. Tbh you probably want to go ahead and get a shiny new cover and save yourself alot of effort cleaning up old one and getting gasket surface back to flat, most likely both block and cover are pitted and need some love. Most time scotch Brite cleans it up but I've used jb weld before to fill pits in and then block sanded. I also like to file check flatness of all gasket surfaces and use appropriate dressing. Also note when reinstalling g cover to make sure balancer is installed and sealed while cover is loose so it centers the seal on the crank.

That is my preferred way in red of making sure the front seal will have a better chance of not leaking. Do it once and do it right.

 

[TheRazor375]

Got the timing chain cover off and those are the 2 water pump bolts that broke off . I haven't tried doing anything with them yet. Figured its break time and order some parts. Basically the engine needs everything.

Edit: Well seems like the parts is a little more involved that I thought. So far im looking at a dorman timing cover it comes with the gasket and crank seal. Timing chain needs to be replaced but im not sure which one to pick yet and there's only 2 harmonic balancers I'm seeing available so far and neither of them look anything like the stock balancer.

 

[Native_Viking]

Also note when reinstalling g cover to make sure balancer is installed and sealed while cover is loose so it centers the seal on the crank.

Good idea in theory except the timing cover on SBF is located to engine block with dowel pins. It is where it is.....

 

[RustProof]

You will need new hardware for both and lots of anti seize applied to the hardware.

Totally agreed. Anytime I've changed them I put antiseize on the long shoulder of the bolt in hopes it might help prevent the aluminum cover from bonding.

 

[MojoJojo]

The one looks long enough to weld a nut too, the heat from the weld “should” help release it…… other one looks like you gots ta drill it out…. Sorry!!

 

[RustProof]

Sometimes hitting the end of the bolt head on and gently with a hammer can help shock things lose too

 

[Bribri]

Good idea in theory except the timing cover on SBF is located to engine block with dowel pins. It is where it is.....

Dowel sleeves have a little play in them and may even be missing, regardless it's a good practice to adhere too. There is a reason all the holes in the cover are so much larger than bolt and that's to allow wiggle room.