[BroncMom]

The problem areas on those chrome steel wheels is in the seams where you can’t really clean out, just take a leaf blower or air gun and blow them out really good after a wash. All other books and crannies while you’re at it. I dry my motorcycle with my leaf blower, works great!


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I have an air compressor with a really long hose 😁 13th birthday present for #2 son 👍

 

[slimpartywagon]

Well, i could see 10k if you was driving it to them, throwing them the keys and say "heres what i want" they have to assume there is some old body work or rust hiding under that paint and account for that up front. They have to disassemble the whole thing, remove the top, all the glass, remove the moldings, strip paint, fix any rust or shoddy older repairs, weatherstrip, etc. The materials alone for the paint job are going to cost near 2000 (2k filler primer, base coat, clear coat, tape, paper, solvents, reducers, hardeners, sealers).
Having it two tone does add some cost, but not that much especially since you have body moldings there to serve as breaks in the paint, so id get a quote for a solid paint job then say "well what if i wanted it done in two tone" and if they add more than 1,000 bucks they're ripping you off (id say more than 500 honestly).

You can cut the cost WAY down if you're willing to do some of the disassembly and paint removal yourself. Your grille, bumpers, moldings, interior, weatherstrip, etc. An 80 grit disk on a DA sander will eat through paint like butter. I opted to not take mine down to bare metal because mine was the original paint and i know for a fact there's no rust about to peek through. Also if any old paint is stuck good you can spray a sealer over the top of it and use it like a primer. Anyway, here is how mine went to the body shop.

View attachment 205493

Everything you can take off is soemthing they dont have to (@ 100-150 dollars per hour)

Last paint job I did was 80k… so yea it was a logging truck cab and frame…. But paint alone was 30k… this was last month… paint price has gone way up… and good prep ain’t cheap… I charge 45/hour for prep.

 

[robbz28]

Sheesh I’m in the wrong business then. I’ve painted my share of Mack trucks and farm equipment, more than I can keep up with on the farm.

I’ve talked with others in here who’ve had paint jobs done in the past year and not a one of them was over 6500 dollars. It’s good to shop around, if you go to a big place that their main source of revenue is doing insurance jobs then they are only going to deal with a cash paint job if it’s worth their while. Got to find a semi retired backyard shop painter that still knows how to lay down a good coat that enjoys his/her work. Hard to find but they’re out there.

Communication is key just like in any relationship, same with a good body shop, need to know what’s hiding under that pretty new paint so it ain’t bubbling up and chipping off in 2 years.


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[dvernon]

As long as I'm at it, why not pull those nasty kick panels, B pillar panels, seat belt covers, sill plates, rear ashtrays, and rear speaker covers... Everything got sanded, degreased, treated with naval jelly to remove rust, and and blasted the ashtrays in prep to repaint them. I'm using krylon colormaster paint+primer covermax ... rustoleum home accents 2X paint+primer ultra cover ...

Hey @BroncMom, I'm thinking of doing some interior paint as well. Trying to match the stock colors, or at least get close. My door panels are sun-dried out on the top and it looks like some of the texture has deep scratches in it. In the attached pic, you can see it looks like someone tried painting with a different red at one point. Kick panels are also scuffed and faded. I had a few questions for you:
1. When you sanded the plastic, did it remove the texture? Did you just leave the plastic smooth for painting?
2. How did you prep the plastic for painting? Just clean and degreaser? Or did you use one of the "plastic adhesion" spray products?
3. How did you like the different paints, as far as durability and coverage, so far? I'm thinking of trying Rustoleum 2X Ultra. Also have a can of SEM Marine Vinyl Coat that looks like a close match that I want to try. Did you go with gloss or satin or?

 

[BroncMom]

Hey @BroncMom, I'm thinking of doing some interior paint as well. Trying to match the stock colors, or at least get close. My door panels are sun-dried out on the top and it looks like some of the texture has deep scratches in it. In the attached pic, you can see it looks like someone tried painting with a different red at one point. Kick panels are also scuffed and faded. I had a few questions for you:
1. When you sanded the plastic, did it remove the texture? Did you just leave the plastic smooth for painting?
2. How did you prep the plastic for painting? Just clean and degreaser? Or did you use one of the "plastic adhesion" spray products?
3. How did you like the different paints, as far as durability and coverage, so far? I'm thinking of trying Rustoleum 2X Ultra. Also have a can of SEM Marine Vinyl Coat that looks like a close match that I want to try. Did you go with gloss or satin or?
View attachment 207195

Hey there... Not sure if the 86 is like my 82 with the door panels but if they are there's a "flocking" topcoat on the door panel that just sands off. I haven't repainted the door panels yet but I'm just leaving them smooth/natural texture post sanding. I have not tried the sem paint (altho I hear good things about it), just the ones I included pictures of in my post. Prep was everything for me. I washed with lightning cleaner, then wet sanded then washed again with vinegar and water then went over with tack cloth and acetone before applying paint. I go over all the steps I went thru with each panel restoration in this build thread. Might take a little digging but it's all there. I didn't use any paint adhesive/bonding agent... Yet... But I do have a couple chips in passenger kick panel cause people don't know where the hell to put their feet 🙄 and will also likely when I paint the door panels since they're a high touch item... I'm really happy overall with the paint I used. It cleans up well and for the most part seems durable.i did anywhere between 4-6 coats depending on the panel and used satin with a satin clear coat on the cargo panels and the kick panels...
Hope that helps 😊

 

[Dee]

Loved binge reading this whole thread! I'm going to be doing a trashy version on your dream on my work truck (92 f350) but black and a dark purple rattle can, as it gets beaten.

I'm finally moving forward in my bronco project and reading and seeing your photos of all of the hours and hours of time you put into the interior has given me confidence. I'm a mechanic but interior and paint is absolutely not my strong point! If I ever get to the exterior paint I'll be sending it out. But I didn't realize the interior could look so sexy with the work you've described in the thread. I love the idea of changing the interior color!

Thank you for so carefully documenting your process and photos and even the setbacks and how you dealt with them!

I have no idea of a color scheme for my bronco but I think I might think of one sooner than later. It really seems to have given your whole project an end goal and also constant motivation!

 

[BroncMom]

Loved binge reading this whole thread! I'm going to be doing a trashy version on your dream on my work truck (92 f350) but black and a dark purple rattle can, as it gets beaten.

I'm finally moving forward in my bronco project and reading and seeing your photos of all of the hours and hours of time you put into the interior has given me confidence. I'm a mechanic but interior and paint is absolutely not my strong point! If I ever get to the exterior paint I'll be sending it out. But I didn't realize the interior could look so sexy with the work you've described in the thread. I love the idea of changing the interior color!

Thank you for so carefully documenting your process and photos and even the setbacks and how you dealt with them!

I have no idea of a color scheme for my bronco but I think I might think of one sooner than later. It really seems to have given your whole project an end goal and also constant motivation!

Awe ❤ that's awesome I was able to inspire someone 😊 yeah, she's definitely been a labor of love... But I'm the opposite of you...I can do paint and interior resto and some body paint/prep all day long, but my mechanical knowledge is limited...I can diagnose a bunch more now then I could 4 years ago thanks to everyone here, but would still rather pay someone else to do the labor... Warranty and all that 😏, I like the security plus I have a really good mechanic now that's reasonable and takes direction well 😁

And don't worry about what you want your rig to be. It'll come to you... They start to take shape and you get a feel for them and you start taking care of them and you can start visualizing different things... I'm sure yours will be fabulous 😁

Soooo, are you picking random build threads to binge or was there something about mine that caught your eye? I can't believe you read the whole thing in one sitting... That's crazy... I must have made it entertaining and informative to make you keep wanting to turn the page 😁

 

[Dee]

I usually creep the rust rebuilds as mine has a long way to go with rust repair.

Seeing this one was very unique to me with so much thought and planning for the fun parts.

I'm a mom hauling kids, none of my peers in that group will care that I restored the frame and had to weld in a new floor.

But when I drop their kids off at an event and the mom sees a unique interior, that's a conversation starter for sure.

Plus most of the stuff I am repairing I'll hopefully never see again, so I am excited all over again to get this pig on the road!

Plus it will be nice to have a 9 passenger vehicle again, both of my sisters are pregnant, so lots more cousins on the way 💙

 

[BroncMom]

I usually creep the rust rebuilds as mine has a long way to go with rust repair.

Seeing this one was very unique to me with so much thought and planning for the fun parts.

I'm a mom hauling kids, none of my peers in that group will care that I restored the frame and had to weld in a new floor.

But when I drop their kids off at an event and the mom sees a unique interior, that's a conversation starter for sure.

Plus most of the stuff I am repairing I'll hopefully never see again, so I am excited all over again to get this pig on the road!

Plus it will be nice to have a 9 passenger vehicle again, both of my sisters are pregnant, so lots more cousins on the way 💙

That's awesome. Congrats on the new cousins. You will definitely have the most unique mom machine on the road. The fun stuff helps keep us motivated for the not so fun stuff that we don't see. But... Check out www.tabcoparts.com for floor pans and other panels/body parts you might need. Reasonable price made with American steel to factory specs. I've heard too many guys bitch about the lmc truck floor pans being thin, warping when welded, needing cut and all around disappointing and frustrating. "I made it work" isn't a phrase you hope to have to use when doing metal work 🙁
I'd love to see some pics of your centurion.

 

[cdmck]

Replaced the original factory 2bbl carb with an Edelbrock 4bbl (1406 I believe), new Edelbrock air cleaner, removed the EECIII ignition control module and replaced with a GM HEI universal ignition system and new distributor cap.

View attachment 149821

what all was needed to get rid of the EEC III? And did you have to replace the intake manifold for the Edelbrock?

 

[BroncMom]

what all was needed to get rid of the EEC III? And did you have to replace the intake manifold for the Edelbrock?

Installing the HEI distributor set up was what was needed to get rid of the EECIII system, as far as install particulars not entirely sure as I didn't do the install... and no did not have to replace the intake to use the Edelbrock 1406 (altho eventually have ambitions to upgrade to the Edelbrock performer series intake somewhere down the line), but did need to change the air cleaner assembly. The original wouldn't fit with the Edelbrock.

 

[cdmck]

Installing the HEI distributor set up was what was needed to get rid of the EECIII system, as far as install particulars not entirely sure as I didn't do the install... and no did not have to replace the intake to use the Edelbrock 1406 (altho eventually have ambitions to upgrade to the Edelbrock performer series intake somewhere down the line), but did need to change the air cleaner assembly. The original wouldn't fit with the Edelbrock.

Does the HEI still need some kind of control module? I’m planning out the next stage of my build now that I know it has a weird carb, a weird non-adjustable distributor, and the eec3 module.

trying to figure out a budget distributor and figure what kind of adapters I’ll need to run a 4 bbl edelbrock

 

[BroncMom]

Does the HEI still need some kind of control module? I’m planning out the next stage of my build now that I know it has a weird carb, a weird non-adjustable distributor, and the eec3 module.

trying to figure out a budget distributor and figure what kind of adapters I’ll need to run a 4 bbl edelbrock

The Edelbrock was easy enough. Basically even swap but needed an extension collar under it because the throttle cable kept getting hung up on it. It's my understanding the HEI is like distributor and ignition in one was why we were able to ditch the eecIII by installing that. Word of warning tho, if you have cruise control you'll lose it... But I hear there is a work around to get that back... Just haven't gotten into it yet.
Hey @BigBlue 94 who can we tag in this that has a good handle on distributors that can explain this in more detail for him?

 

[BigBlue 94]

Does the HEI still need some kind of control module? I’m planning out the next stage of my build now that I know it has a weird carb, a weird non-adjustable distributor, and the eec3 module.

trying to figure out a budget distributor and figure what kind of adapters I’ll need to run a 4 bbl edelbrock

The Edelbrock was easy enough. Basically even swap but needed an extension collar under it because the throttle cable kept getting hung up on it. It's my understanding the HEI is like distributor and ignition in one was why we were able to ditch the eecIII by installing that. Word of warning tho, if you have cruise control you'll lose it... But I hear there is a work around to get that back... Just haven't gotten into it yet.
Hey @BigBlue 94 who can we tag in this that has a good handle on distributors that can explain this in more detail for him?

So, i can help a bit. I did install my HEI, on a feedback computer carbed 300. Except someone long ago had already done some work. It was set up with a standard 4bbl holley and a points and condenser distributor, with a pertronix ignitor in place of the points. There were lots of hacked wires. So my install is different than someone starting with an uncut wiring harness.

My setup has a Davis Unified Ignition HEI. It has 12v power supplied by a 300Amp golf cart relay, drawing right off the battery. This is fairly standard for every install.

On my hacked up wiring, i had issues, so i run the ignition off a toggle switch in the cab. The switch turns on the golf cart relay, which turns on the ignition/distributor. Then i use the key to engage the starter. When i want to shut the engine down, the key no longer works, and i have to use the toggle switch mentioned above. Thats all there is to it.

On an un-hacked wiring harness, you will wire the distributor to the relay like above, but instead of a toggle switch, you must locate the ignition switch on the lower end of the steering column. Not the key cylinder... On that ignition switch, you will have to probe to find a single wire that gets 12v when the key is in BOTH the start and run positions. With my hacked up harness, i couldnt find one.

Otherwise, thats all there is to the HEI. No extra modules are needed. I cannot comment as to whether you can remove the EEC completely and not have other power functions continue to work. My bronco has no power anything or AC.

The other option, is the Ford DuraSpark II ignition. This is what came on the 82 and prior ford engines, back to whenever the got rid of points ignitions. There are kits available and lots of documentation online on this conversion. Going this route has benefits over the HEI. Replacement parts can be bought at any parts store by getting stuff for a 1976 ford vehicle with your engine. Its also very reliable. The cons to this route are minor. It does not start quite as quick as HEI, nor does it provide quite as much spark. But these are very small differences and both will be a VAST improvement over the feedback ignition and carburetor systems.

Then its as simple as bolting whatever intake and carb you want on it. Though i cant comment on cruise control. Remember... my 85 is a bare bones base model. It didnt even come with a radio!

@AbandonedBronco may be able to provide a bit more info.

 

[BroncMom]

So, i can help a bit. I did install my HEI, on a feedback computer carbed 300. Except someone long ago had already done some work. It was set up with a standard 4bbl holley and a points and condenser distributor, with a pertronix ignitor in place of the points. There were lots of hacked wires. So my install is different than someone starting with an uncut wiring harness.

My setup has a Davis Unified Ignition HEI. It has 12v power supplied by a 300Amp golf cart relay, drawing right off the battery. This is fairly standard for every install.

On my hacked up wiring, i had issues, so i run the ignition off a toggle switch in the cab. The switch turns on the golf cart relay, which turns on the ignition/distributor. Then i use the key to engage the starter. When i want to shut the engine down, the key no longer works, and i have to use the toggle switch mentioned above. Thats all there is to it.

On an un-hacked wiring harness, you will wire the distributor to the relay like above, but instead of a toggle switch, you must locate the ignition switch on the lower end of the steering column. Not the key cylinder... On that ignition switch, you will have to probe to find a single wire that gets 12v when the key is in BOTH the start and run positions. With my hacked up harness, i couldnt find one.

Otherwise, thats all there is to the HEI. No extra modules are needed. I cannot comment as to whether you can remove the EEC completely and not have other power functions continue to work. My bronco has no power anything or AC.

The other option, is the Ford DuraSpark II ignition. This is what came on the 82 and prior ford engines, back to whenever the got rid of points ignitions. There are kits available and lots of documentation online on this conversion. Going this route has benefits over the HEI. Replacement parts can be bought at any parts store by getting stuff for a 1976 ford vehicle with your engine. Its also very reliable. The cons to this route are minor. It does not start quite as quick as HEI, nor does it provide quite as much spark. But these are very small differences and both will be a VAST improvement over the feedback ignition and carburetor systems.

Then its as simple as bolting whatever intake and carb you want on it. Though i cant comment on cruise control. Remember... my 85 is a bare bones base model. It didnt even come with a radio!

@AbandonedBronco may be able to provide a bit more info.

Thanks @BigBlue 94

 

[cdmck]

@BroncMom , my cruise control barely functions as it is, so it’s not a big loss.

@BigBlue 94, that’s a lot of help actually. Thank you. Do you know what part I would need to mount a 4 bbl carb on my intake? Not replacing the intake right ways would save me a lot. I’m wanting to get either the edelbrock 1906 or 1916.

 

[BigBlue 94]

@BroncMom , my cruise control barely functions as it is, so it’s not a big loss.

@BigBlue 94, that’s a lot of help actually. Thank you. Do you know what part I would need to mount a 4 bbl carb on my intake? Not replacing the intake right ways would save me a lot. I’m wanting to get either the edelbrock 1906 or 1916.

Gonna send you a PM to not muddle up MoMs thread.

 

[AbandonedBronco]

Otherwise, thats all there is to the HEI. No extra modules are needed. I cannot comment as to whether you can remove the EEC completely and not have other power functions continue to work. My bronco has no power anything or AC.

The other option, is the Ford DuraSpark II ignition. This is what came on the 82 and prior ford engines, back to whenever the got rid of points ignitions. There are kits available and lots of documentation online on this conversion. Going this route has benefits over the HEI. Replacement parts can be bought at any parts store by getting stuff for a 1976 ford vehicle with your engine. Its also very reliable. The cons to this route are minor. It does not start quite as quick as HEI, nor does it provide quite as much spark. But these are very small differences and both will be a VAST improvement over the feedback ignition and carburetor systems.

@AbandonedBronco may be able to provide a bit more info.

Yes, you can remove the EEC without it affecting any of the other components. The only thing the EEC affects is spark and fuel. Once you put in an aftermarket ignition and carb, it's no longer needed. (That is... until you get into the later years where the electronic automatics come in to play, but that's a different story).

All the other components are controlled by other modules and/or electronics. So all good there!

The cruise has its own module. On my '85, it was in the same bracket as the EEC, but it's a 100% separate system.

 

[BigBlue 94]

Yes, you can remove the EEC without it affecting any of the other components. The only thing the EEC affects is spark and fuel. Once you put in an aftermarket ignition and carb, it's no longer needed. (That is... until you get into the later years where the electronic automatics come in to play, but that's a different story).

All the other components are controlled by other modules and/or electronics. So all good there!

The cruise has its own module. On my '85, it was in the same bracket as the EEC, but it's a 100% separate system.

Hmmm so i can pull mine out... Its only been in there unused for 20 years!

 

[BroncMom]

The cruise has its own module. On my '85, it was in the same bracket as the EEC, but it's a 100% separate system.

Can you elaborate a little on this cause I'd love to get mine going again.