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Hi. I just bought a 1989 xlt. and worked just fine. suddenly it wouldent start. When i hold the key in starting position the car runs great, but immedietly when i let go of the key and it goes back to run,, it dies. I have don some trouble shooting and checked the ignition switch. i changed it to the one in my other car,, same problem. then i hot wired the switch wires, so that it thinks the key is in starting possition. then i took of the 12v cable from the starter solenoid and just gave it a little bit 12v so the starter started the car. now the car runs but the starter is disconnected. its not possible to drive it this way because of the neutral safety switch. But that was not the point. Now to the big question.. WHATS WRONG WITH IT? i cant figure it out. what cuts the ignition when i put the key in run possition?

Im sorry for my bad writing :) but im swedish...:whiteflag
 

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Does the ignition switch feel loose at all?

I just had a similar problem with my Mustang. The car would start fine, but when I let go of the key it would die. It turns out that my ignition switch was bad, and the switch thought I was turning the car off when I released the key. $50 later and all is well.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
It feels fine

I dont have the ignition switch wired right now. i have wired round the switch and still have the same problem.
 

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Perhaps the Ignition switch you bypassed is wired incorrectly. Can you explain exactly how you have it wired up? I just ditched my factory ignition switch and installed an aftermarket ignition key switch i installed in my dash. So i have a fresh memory of what wires go where.
 

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Oh, Out of personal experiance with running issues. i would check the idle air bypass to see if its working correctly. it is cleanable. Make sure its plugged in and gets juice. On mine if i unplug it and crank it up,,,,, it will die about 1 second after i let off the starter if my idle air bypass is unplugged.
 

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If you're turning the key to "RUN/START" and it fires up but dies when you release the key it could be several possibilities:

A. The key cylinder itself is malfunctioning ....just below it there is a "small slot" and with a sharp pointed tool, key in "RUN" position push up hard with the tool and the key cylinder will pop out...take a look at it....for damage etc....

B. the "upper ignition actuator" inside the steering wheel is about to break, what happens at some point when you turn the key to "RUN/START" nothing happens and it feels like it's disconnected and the vehicle won't start, now it's broken inside so you either jump it from the "starter relay" OR remove the "black plastic steering column shroud" exposing the "ignition rod" on top of the column, turn the key to "RUN" and with a set of pliers, drive the rod forward/downward and the vehicle will start and you still key functions, ie: RUN/NO START, OFF/LOCK and AUX..

***once the actuator breaks be aware that the broken piece inside can move forward and affect PRNDL column shifting and steering ability.

C. the "timing" is in correct in relation to the ignition rod and ignition switch, ie: the distance the ignition rod needs to travel downward to trigger the ignition switch for "START"...the switch has slots on each side for adjustment UP/DOWN for timing...but you need to understand a number of components ALL need to "rotate forward" simultaneously, ie: key cylinder, upper ignition actuator, lower ignition actuator and ignition rod which triggers the switch so the vehicle will start.
The ignition rod is attached on both ends to the upper ignition actuator with a 3/32 x 3/8 roll pin and "hooks" into the ignition switch "slot"..

D. code: 67 can be either be an A/C or NSS = neutral safety switch issue but most of the time the NSS isssue is that the "column shift linkage" is out of sync with the transmission affecting "STARTING" ....go here for instructions on How to DIY.....www.broncolinks.com and scroll for transmission section and the explanation and diagram ref. Point A are there, it's a 10 minute job........assuming this applies to your year BKO.....

Check this thread: Ignition Actuator Replacement on an 85 w/Tilt ~

This is a detailed picture step by step How to DIY "actuator" replacement......it's a PITA job...the OEM replacement part number is listed in that thread and runs around $10.00 Mfg'd by Dorman and can be found in the Help" section of auto parts stores......

I don't know your situation with Auto Parts Stores in Sweden but the ignition actuator part is easily ordered on the internet from most places...


Good Luck ~
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hi, bigguy6f4.. i ran wires thru 37,977,32 and 16 i think it was. im not at the car right now so im not sure. what connections did you use just for running mode?

I have tested the upper actuator and looked at the key switch. no problem to be seen there.

It runs perfectly as long as i fool it that the starter motor is running ( disconnected the + wire from the solenoid) so i dont think it is the idle air bypass.

i also tested to start the car with the ignition switch in my hand. used a screwdriver to move the connector.. start and then dies when i remove the screwdriver from the starting possition. so im pretty sure its not the timing from the upper actuator that is the problem.

Feels like im getting some gray hairs soon.....
 

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Did you happen to "pull codes" to see what "faults" are indicated ..........if any........ie: ignition module, ignition coil, PIP sensor.....or even IDM = ignition diagnostic monitor which is nothing more then a resistor regulating volatge to the distributor, pip and module etc .....it looks like a big eraser with this symbol on the side ....W.....usually located on top in the harness near the drivers valve cover, coil area with 2 wires, there's a test procedure in the Haynes Repair Manual for this, driving pins thru the wires and testing with a multimeter etc....PITA.......

IDM's can be purchased from www.fordfuelinjection.com for around $1.00 each, last time I checked, though you'll need to solder it into the wiring blend......I cut my rubber case in half and re-used it......NBD....

The "starter relay" is usually the weakest link, test the (S) side and that cable going down to the starter motor, no voltage, no start......

What shape is your battery in.......put an 850CCA battery on your wish list, trust me.......

Test FREE the starter motor......and make sure the connections to it are in good condition.......

Make sure the NEG batttery cable is grounded to the frame and you can ground the "starter relay" as well......www.supermotors.net/17406 starter relay ground..VIDEO...

Have patience, remember these are older vehicles and need some TLC....lol lol.....work thru it.....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i have hotwired the car so it starts and run, but the nss stops me from using it. i have to be able to use it to work, so i need to fool the nss to do that. How do i do that? im not sure what automatic gearbox i have. This is just a temporary solution until i find the fault...
 

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First the NSS has 2 wires and connector and in some cases you can jump them to bypass it.....check Haynes Manual and bronco links.com...switch are not expensive and easy to replace BUT carefull when installing the new one you don't OVER TORQUE and break it leaving it's threads below the case level, PITA to get out thread it in by hand and snug with wrench that's it........


Pulling codes from the vehicle computer as initial diagnosis is important so it leads you in the right direction to solve the problem rather then guesssing etc....


Make sure the column shift linkage is in sync with the transmission regarding starting issues..


Good Luck ~
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I finaly solved some problems today, and got some more info. I know both my starter solenoids are toasted. BUT!!! i have mounted everything back together as the problem suddenly has moved :) lol.. with the steering collum and ignition switch put back together, i can put the key in run mode. take a small wire and jump start the solenoid directly from the battery. then the car starts....... now to next problem... to be able to put the car in gear and drive. i have to take a wire from + on the battery and put in the small red wire that is supposed to activate the solenoid. then i can drive the car as usual.....this sems very wrong if you ask me... does this make anybody smarter about my problem??????????
 

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I'm having a little trouble understanding your English interpertation and descriptions..lol lol....it's a little confusing....let me know if any of my suggestions have helped at this point.

:thumbup
 
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