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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi folks,

I'm new on this forum. I own a 1996 E250 4x4 originally converted by Quigley in PA. They put on a Bronco front axel with a 3 inch lift kit when the truck had 60 miles in 1996.

I own the truck since 2010. The truck was in Alaska and Yukon before I bought it. I beleive the actual positive camber of 0.5 degree was for dirt road in thoses places.

Now I just bought a clean new set of tires and I'm tired of wearing the tires on the outside...I did try in the pas to put some toe out do reduce wear with no big success.

Here's my question:

I do 80% of my driving on asphalt roads and 20% on dirt/sand/mud roads. I want to adjust camber to find the best compromise without loosing too much steering on dirt roads and avoid external tire wear due to positilve camber.

What should be my target? 0 degree camber or a value in between 0.5 and 0? Did folks out there have already experienced this type of tuning?

Thanks for your precious help

windblowers
Quebec
Canada
 

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Camber is an adjustment that is dependent on the usage and the tire width. As a general rule, as the tire gets wider, the closer to zero camber.
You mentioned that your tire wear was on the outer edges of your current tires. This would indicate excessive positive camber.
There are three adjustable frontend alignment adjustments, Caster, Camber and Toe. Camber and Toe will cause the tires to wear if too far from neutral or zero. But if set at zero, constant steering input is needed to keep the car moving in the direction wanted. Some trial and error will be needed to get the final result that you are looking for. I included a link to a short course on wheel alignment.
2c14a60832bb10058cf300146efa6b30.pdf (assets-cdk.com)
 

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Yo windblowers,
Welcome to our Bronco and E/F Series Family!

I'll move this thread to Noobie Section for better visibilty, with answers and suggested tire/alignment shops in Quebec

ASAP, find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed by dealership. Call local dealer or register and view status @ ford.ca
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.

Sone E series info in 96 F-Series/Bronco Workshop Manual (PARTIAL) via 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual

96 F Series Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ https://www.fleet.ford.com/partsandservice/owner-manuals/

To chat about any issues or planned build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie section. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to view).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your E250 info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Your E250 info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details, scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.

Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

Our Forum faqs @ FAQ Includes for example:
How To Upload Images To Posts & How to Use Search
See more tips!

➡ Look at Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links... such as Info on adjustable Caster/Camber bushing., etc.


➡ Try to find time to participate and VOTE in our Full-Size of the Quarter Contest & current Full-Size of the Year Contest @ F.O.T.M Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes⚠ They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!
Al7
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Camber is an adjustment that is dependent on the usage and the tire width. As a general rule, as the tire gets wider, the closer to zero camber.
You mentioned that your tire wear was on the outer edges of your current tires. This would indicate excessive positive camber.
There are three adjustable frontend alignment adjustments, Caster, Camber and Toe. Camber and Toe will cause the tires to wear if too far from neutral or zero. But if set at zero, constant steering input is needed to keep the car moving in the direction wanted. Some trial and error will be needed to get the final result that you are looking for. I included a link to a short course on wheel alignment.
2c14a60832bb10058cf300146efa6b30.pdf (assets-cdk.com)
Thanks for your help miest5.

Perhaps I do know wheel alignment basics. I was looking to find out if people did have any experience in camber tuning. I have standard tire size, 245/75/16.

Quite interesting to read your document since I did learn that in modern world, ingineers looks towards negative camber and old school prefer positive camber.

From my perspective, I wand to eliminate trial and error since I can not measure precisely my camber in the field (poor outside set up with ropes to ajust toe adjustment), I need to go to an alignment shop, thus they found I was at 0.5 positive.

I know that guys that are a 0 degree camber have a harder time to steer in mud...perhap with oldschool trucks. Is it the same with new Rubicon Jeeps?

Just put on old winter tire on the truck. Uphere, with all the laws our matriarcal society is making, we have to install winter tire december 1st to march 15...:sleep:

I will find out correct camber amount by march when I will put my brand new tire set.

Have a good time
 
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