[joshuadean]

I recently purchased a 1993 5.8L Bronco and the cables connecting the battery, alternator, starter solenoid, and starter where just 50 shades of garbage. Absolute shambles repairs and splices everywhere.

Additionally, someone installed a winch, high power light bar, and a kicking sound system, all this running off a 90amp 3G Alt, with i kid you not, 8gauge wire for the alternator charge cable. This cable was running from the alternator to the back post on the start solenoid, along with the yellow 14ga wire fromm the three plug on the alternator. Also on the back post was a 6ga cable to the positive battery terminal, with an additional 6ga cable running from the pos battery terminal to the starter motor, which stuck me as an odd configuration. the winch, light bar, and sound system where wired straight to the battery terminals, which i have since disconnected.
These combined to a pretty large amp draw, which i believed to be the source of the Bronco dieing while driving in the city, but not on open roads, the difference between alternator output at solid RPMs and constantly being at idle in the city.

Ive removed the bad repairs and replaced the smaller cables for 4ga everything. i also have a 270 amp alternator ordered, with 1/O size Big 3 cables.
This is where my questions begin

1. How should all the wires be connected between the battery, alternator, starter, and starter solenoid? Because ive seen numerous ways all a little different on youtube and in forums that supposedly all work, and my arrangement is just not working.With a new optima yellow top battery, that i have had on a 10amp charger with a AGM mode that shows fully charged, i have some power when turning the (brand new) ignition cylinder to start, but the volt gauge on the dash reads about 10volts and the starter will not even crank once. This is the current routing and connection of cables and wires, please tells me if any of this is incorrect;
-Battery, positive terminal, one 4ga cable to the alternator stud, and one 4ga caable to the back post of the starter solenoid.
-Battery, negative terminal, one 4ga 9" cable to the fender, which i removed all paint from, its bare metal. a second 4ga cable down to the frame, where it passes through a metal bracket and the insulation is removed so the midpoint bracket acts as a frame ground. this same cable continues to the engine block, (hopefully) grounding engine to frame, battery to frame, and battery to engine, in theory.
-Alternator, there's a 14-16ga yellow wire that was routed to the back post of the starter solenoid originally, so thats where it remains, but that is my only reason for putting it there. the green wire runs over to the passenger side fender, and connects to a different wiring harness. the white of course goes from the three plug connector to the one plug connector also on the alternator.
-Starter Solenoid, the only connector on the front post of the solenoid is the 14-16ga red wire that runs to the start motor. everything else is on the back post, which is how it was before.

2. For the new Alternator i have coming in, i need a belt 0.5" shorter than the one currently on there, and im trying to find out the length for that. i haven't been able to find a diagram for the belt on the 5.8L with the smog pump removed, but i have found a diagram for the 5.0L with the smog pump removed that has the belt routed and shaped very close to mine. is there a information on the belt itself thhat i could go look at, or belt diagrams with lengths required for the 5.8L engine, with smog pump removed?

Will upload any pictures you guys need as soon as i can.

 

[joshuadean]

 

[USMC0351]

You can shorten the yellow wire, and go straight to the alternator post using a ring connector. It just needs to sense 12V. I ran my starter cable straight to the Battery +. Another cable from Battery + to the rear solenoid post. Alternator can go to either the rear post or directly to Battery +. The starter solenoid trigger wire goes to the front post. Ran a redundant ground going from Battery - to alternator. Make sure the ignition wire on the small top post of the solenoid is tight.

 

[joshuadean]

So I went out, swapped the yellowtop battery with my 750cca walmart brand backup. Prior to using both these batteries I had them on a 10amp digital charger/maintainer for several hours, and the charger indicated full charge on each.

Due to unforseen circumstances, my multimeter has moved on to a better place.
Will replace soon.

I've then installed anothe 4ga cable from the negative terminal to the top alternator mount bolt. Verified all my connections where good and still, no starter crank, battery volt meter on dash reads 10v

Wouldve taken actually photos but its storming on base, and I gotta get to work.

 

[jermil01]

This is how I have mine routed with no smog pump.

 

[miesk5]

Yo joshuadean,
Welcome!
Update!
"...

"
The relay trigger wire (R/LB) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N.

The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter.

130A alternators use the same charge cable as 95A.

The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle." by Steve

Find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed.
If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 711.
... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.

For any Bronco questions or to chat about desired modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members ).

Here is the 1993 Bronco Dealer Brochure in Google Drive @ 93Bronco.pdf

1993 Bronco Dealer Training Video via silver70 @

1993 Bronco, Venezuela Commercial @

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom

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➡ Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)including, "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc

Try to find time to participate and vote in our Full-Size of the Month Contest & later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Prizes are awarded! A full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription, once the article is submitted. Also, a years worth of premium FSB membership is awarded to the winner!
Al

 

[miesk5]

Yo joshuadean,
Welcome!
View attachment 174520
View attachment 174521
View attachment 174522
Find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed.
If you still have concerns about Recalls, please contact the Customer Relationship Center:
US: 800-392-3673 | CA: 800-565-3673
Note: 3673 spells "FORD" on phone keys
For the hearing- or speech-impaired: Please contact the Telecommunication Relay Service by dialing 711.
... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
See this guide by jowens1126 to confirm recall status @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than 94-96.

For any Bronco questions or to chat about desired modifications or build, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (50 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members ).

Here is the 1993 Bronco Dealer Brochure in Google Drive @ 93Bronco.pdf

1993 Bronco Dealer Training Video via silver70 @

1993 Bronco, Venezuela Commercial @

Haynes Red Manual for 80-95 Bronco & F Series @ Hanes guide 80-96 bko f series.pdf via BroncMom

Your signature can include up to 4 lines, a maximum of 1000 characters and one link. An image counts as a line. Anytime you hit "enter" on your keyboard, it will automatically go to a new line. Images will automatically be resized to 300 x 200 pixels. You can see more options in your settings to collapse signatures, always view full signature, or to not see signatures at all. The choice is yours.

Both guests and members can view signatures.

If a user has their preferences set to the default they will see collapsed signatures as in the example below for them. (They can click to see more.)

If a user has their preferences set to always show expanded signatures it will look like the example below for them. Your image can be clicked to view full size.

If you want to adjust your preferences for signatures you can click on your avatar near the upper right-hand corner of the site and select account settings.

In the left side navigation, you will see an option for preferences. Click it.

Scroll down to content options and select your signature preferences.

Our Forum FAQs includes for example, How To Upload Images To Posts & How to Use Search. See more tips!

➡ Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)including, "how do I get the tailgate glass to...", etc

Try to find time to participate and vote in our Full-Size of the Month Contest & later in the year, Full-Size of the Year Contest @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Prizes are awarded! A full spread in Bronco Driver Magazine is the top prize, in addition to a years subscription, once the article is submitted. Also, a years worth of premium FSB membership is awarded to the winner!
Al

 

[joshuadean]

This is how I have mine routed with no smog pump.

View attachment 174518

Thank you Jermil01, mine is the same way, this is for a 5.8L correct? And would you happen to know the length of belt you have?

 

[jermil01]

Thank you Jermil01, mine is the same way, this is for a 5.8L correct? And would you happen to know the length of belt you have?

You're welcome..Correct, I have a 5.8, but I've also got a sag power steering pump that uses a different size pulley, so you'll need to take that into account..the belt I'm running now is a 918k6. Was previously running a 910k6, but when I went to replace with that size belt there was way too much tension and the tensioner was just about hitting the radiator hose..anyway, I stepped up a size and that works perfectly..

The best way to figure out the belt you need is to take a piece of string, tape it to the alt pulley and then route it all the way through..once you have it where the two ends meet, remove the string and measure..you want to knock a 1/2 inch off because the string doesn't stretch like belt will.

 

[joshuadean]

The relay trigger wire (R/LB) comes from the ignition switch via the clutch switch or MLPS and should only be hot with the key in START and either the clutch fully depressed, OR the auto shifter in P or N.

The solenoid trigger wire goes to the small terminal on the starter. If the relay fails, bridge between the 2 large studs to send power to the solenoid. If the starter still doesn't spin, crawl under the truck, remove the red plastic cover, and BRIEFLY bridge between the 2 large studs on the solenoid (using a heavy metal object with an insulated grip, like a screwdriver) to spin the starter (it won't engage the flywheel or crank the engine). If it still doesn't spin, replace the starter.

130A alternators use the same charge cable as 95A.

The Yellow wire goes to the stud on the side of the power distribution box, and feeds all other factory loads on the vehicle." by Steve

Looks like my starter wires (#14 and 4 gauge) are set up the same as the picture and description here, only difference is i had to discard the big rubber Y when i went to a larger 4ga cable for the starter.

Another thing i did, when i removed the black and orange alternator output for a 4ga cable, i removed the fuseable link that the black/orange cable and yellow wire both connect to, before it is connected to the relay in that picture there. the output cable now goes to the battery, and the yellow wire now with no fuseablelink, just a ring terminal, goes to the relay. could this present an issue?

 

[joshuadean]

Update: bit a exciting morning.

Bridged the posts on the fender solenoid this morning and it cranked, so I know its either the s post on the solenoid not working correctly, or the s post is not getting power from the ignition system. So I got out a set of leads, one with a light to indicate continuaty, and I put the key into run and leave it. Before i can get the cable tie around the leads off, I smell something burning and it smells off.
So I remove the key, disconnect the battery, and by this time theres a notible amount of white smoke wafting up from the bottom of the engine, it slowly stopped, after about two minutes. I took a video of that, ill try to post it.
What could cause smoke like this from the engine, when its not started, or cranking, only left in the run position?

 

[joshuadean]

View attachment 174587 View attachment 174588 View attachment 174589

Screenshots of video

 

[joshuadean]

Here's my new starter relay solenoid, installed yesterday. Before I put the new one on, I cleaned the fender and removed the paint to bare metal. No start no crank before amd after solenoid swap.

Here is a ground that was installed when bronco was purchased, I moved the other end from the battery to the frame.

Here is where I removed the engine-frame bracket-battery ground that was mad corroded, I mean corrosion four inches up and down from the frame bracket the cable went through. I did not have the right size terminal for the engine block stud, so it's on the mount point for the smog pump. Did not start before or after changing out the ground point, and now i have the correct lug so ill be putting it back on the block tomorrow.

In the above picture, the left cable is from the smog pump mount, the center goes to the battery negative, and the right goes to the alternator housing.

Tomorrow ill be swapping out the 5 blade ignition relay block, and putting the engine block ground back on the engine