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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok this is the deal. A couple of weeks ago my bronco started sputtering when at low RPM (below 1500RPM). I let it go for a couple of days until it got worse (died on me out 4 wheeling). I decided to replace the fuel filter to see if that was the problem. The filter wasn't that old. When I took it off the gas coming out of the filter on the inlet side looked like I had dumped dirt in it Gas comiing out of the outlet side was clean. Anyways, I put a new filter on and it seemed to fix the problem. The next day me And the wife went to the sandunes to ride the quad and it didn't act up at all on the way up, about 20 miles. On the way home right as we got off the hwy it died again. I had to get towed home. I let it sit for about a half hour and it started again. I checked the fuel filter and the gas was clean coming out the inlet side. Wednesday night I decided to replace the fuel pump to hoping that was the problem. I drove it to work yesterday and home then it around last night with no problems. Then this morning on my way to work it just died when I was doing about 70 mph. Luckily someone one stopped to see if I needed help because I left my cell phone at home. Anyways I let it sit for 15 min. and it started up. I drove it the rest of the way into work. It stayed running but a couple of times it cut out. Does anybody have a idea I could try? I need the bronc tommorrow, I have to lead 4 wheeling run tomorrow. Thanks in advance, Jarrod

P.S. Its a 93 with a 351w and zf
 

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Get a fuel pressure gauge, recreate the problem by driving around, and see if you have pressure at the rail when it won't start. This will rule out (or in) your fuel delivery system so you can concentrate on spark if it's getting fuel.
 

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Have you tried to check the codes? If you have no trouble codes, then it almost sounds like a vapor lock type problem. When it acts up again, check to see if you are getting fuel pressure to the rail.
 

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...did you extract the codes from your OBD.....oh my deja vou !.....do you need the simple way to do it explained , you dont need a hand held reader, those are great but you can get the dash light to flash you the codes.... (im not typeing out the whole thing right now,)....seriously..could be a failing fuel injection solonoid , i was just talking about this problem, ......but you need to do the diag chain in a different order....what i mean is try to stick to the diag progression...1: retrieve ODB code, fix code refrence area, if one then try running it again,if fail,and no code, check physical condition of system in question, try examining the "tune up" parts involved with system in question, gas filter, plugs, could forieghn substance have been dumped in tank?,what were the conditions at time of failure, did some one else work on the truck just before the problem started,could you have been working on something else that may have disturbed the system in question, ie: electrical, manifold work, welding.....uh....and now that i rechecked your post while typing this, could someone have put dirt in your gas tank,?.......you didnt say wether your fuel pump is remote ( on the frame) or the stock sender in tank.....some times people splice in a remote fule pump bypassing removal of the tank,..it works but then the old sender finally clogs up and causes a situation similar to yours.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
78CERBERUS said:
...did you extract the codes from your OBD.....oh my deja vou !.....do you need the simple way to do it explained ,



No codes and yes I know how to pull them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
[/QUOTE]but you need to do the diag chain in a different order.....[/QUOTE]


Whats the order?
 

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The Anti Yam!
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Sounds like a flakey TFI module.
Get it to do it again, when it does check the wires going into the coil with the key in the on position. Both wires should have powe. If only one does then you either have a bad TFI or a bad coil.
 

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allright i just tried to post and it all vanished..anyway in a nut shell...you didnt say wether your fuel pump is remote,(on the frame) and if so is the fuel filter before or after the remote one .....and or a stock sender in tank...some times youll see someone splice a remote fuel pump inline to bypass dropping the tank to replace the stock sending unit,...depending how its really set up,,the spliced unit pulls fuel through the old tank sender eventually clogging it up if dirt or sand is sloshing around in the tank....you keep replaceing exterior parts but as soon as the fuel starts to slosh around the sand (dirt) in the tank makes its way through again, i always install a clear fuel filter up in the engine compartment to help verify fuel problems.....and could some one have dumped debris in your tank at the dunes.?.......
 

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The Anti Yam!
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78CERBERUS said:
i always install a clear fuel filter up in the engine compartment to help verify fuel problems..
Who makes a clear filter for EFI aplications?
 

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...i should have mentioned the ones i have used were special for high pressure systems and i got them from a machinary supply house, normally any unnescassary splices in a high pressure fuel system should be avoided im gonna look through my saved boxs for the name of that company...."do not use the plastic ones in the "motor mite" section of the parts store......they will not last under 40 - 60 lbs pressure.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
The fuel pump is in the tank. When I pulled it out the other day I looked in the tank to see if anything was in there and it was clean. I get off work in an hour so I'm going get a pressure tester and drive around until it does it again and check the pressure. As for the TFI I was always told when they start acting up they get really hot. The first time this happened I checked the TFI and it was warm not hot. I will check itand the coil when it happens. Thanks, for the replies, I 'll post up what I found out.
 

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check the vacuum hose to the FPR... I had a Mustang that did wierd shit like this and that hose had a hairline split on one end... replaced it, and it was back to normal...
 

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BRONCOPASSION said:
As for the TFI I was always told when they start acting up they get really hot.
Not necessarily true.

The old ones where mounted on the dizzy, where they got really hot, the continuous exposure to engine heat made them act up.

Yours should be remote mounted and there fore be much cooler.
 

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Tomh971 said:
check the vacuum hose to the FPR... I had a Mustang that did wierd shit like this and that hose had a hairline split on one end... replaced it, and it was back to normal...
He will be able to further diagnose a fuel problem if he has one, AFTER determining there is in fact a fuel problem with the FP guage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Update. I finally got the check engine light to come on. I drove around for a while. I pulled 452 I think that was the number anyways I looked it up and it said Secondary fuel pump circut failure. I started looking around at the wires and noticed that the fuel pump connector had worked it's way loose. So I pushed on it until it clicked and problem solved. I guess when I put the new pump in I didn't get the connector all the way on. Anyways thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Jarrod
 

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BRONCOPASSION said:
Update. I finally got the check engine light to come on. I drove around for a while. I pulled 452 I think that was the number anyways I looked it up and it said Secondary fuel pump circut failure. I started looking around at the wires and noticed that the fuel pump connector had worked it's way loose. So I pushed on it until it clicked and problem solved. I guess when I put the new pump in I didn't get the connector all the way on. Anyways thanks for all the replies and suggestions. Jarrod
HA Thats awesome. I was going to suggest it had the exact same symptoms of a fuel pump on its way out. Many Bronco fuel pumps, when they are dying, show the symptoms when its hot. As it gets progressively worse, the symptoms start at lower and lower temps.

But since you replaced it I assumed it couldnt be the problem. Glad you got it working.
 
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