[rc_mcwaters3]

I have a 89 EB BKO with a 351w, it recently ran out of gas and had real bad problems starting. I had to drop the tank and replace the in tank sending unit assembly which fixed the gas guage issue but It has a problem starting. I gan pour gas into teh intake and get it started and it will run and drive but not very well. I have a new fuel filter on the rail as well.

once its started it will rev to 3000+ rpm's and maintain in park as long as I give it gas slowly.

if I put the pedle to the floor once its running it dies.

I know the on rail pump is working correctly and I have pressure on the fuel rail as well it shoots at least 4 to five feet into the air.
I want to know what else might be wrong and if it is a fuel problem of somthing diffrent.

 

[raleigh]

May have vapor lock, get a guage and see what the pressure is.

 

[Northernguy]

Was the fuel filter installed the right way? timing,plug wires,vacuum...

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

plugs and wires are only 2 months old the filter was replaced after it ran out of gas but not with the new tank pump I am trying to get ahold of a guage but didnt want to buy one so im trying to borrow one. checked the timing alond with the dist cap and rotator button and everything is good there. I was told to push air through the lines to try and push any trash out of the lines. on another note is there a filter I am missing or is there just the one on the rail?

 

[Saltlife]

Just one filter but you do have two pumps. One on the line and one in the tank. Have you check the one on the line?

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

yes I have replaced the one in line right after the truck had run out of gas and the one in tank just yesterday, sorry if I was unclear. I droped teh tank and it has been without it for about a month of so fuel lines disconnected untile yesterday when I got it fixed. If it helps It is EFI not carborated

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

the filter was indeed instaled the right way LOL it had aarows to show the flow of gas.

could the TPS be the reason for the failure to start?

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

bump

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

well as a thought I managed to get a fuel pressure test guage and with the truck off im at 40 PSI with it started and running im at 33 as long as I give it slow and consistent gas. When I give it heavy gas it spits and sputers and moves up to 40-45 PSI so I dont think its a fuel issue any thoughts?

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

replaced the ignition coi,l rotator button, re-replaced the plugs with motorcrafts, new wires I have fire from the coil to the distributor and from the distributor to the plug both are nice and blue. Any thoughs of what I need to do next? really need some help here.

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

could it be the Catalitic converter that is giving me these problems?

 

[raleigh]

Seems like a fuel issue from the description....

Good luck!!

 

[mike85xlt]

fuel pressure regulator? im just guessing, im carbureted

 

[BroncoJoe19]

The best thing to do is to pull diagnostic codes.

Prior to pulling codes you really want to rule out vacuum leaks.

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

how would I look for vacuum leaks?

 

[BroncoJoe19]

To pull codes... all you need is a paperclip and the ability to count to ten.

Pull Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) From your onboard computer.
Your engine and transmission are computer controlled.
The computer uses sensors to tell it a number of different things and it controls actuators that push or pull mechanical levers (kinda). If one or more sensors aren't working properly, the computer goes "blind" and doesn't know what to do. If the computer can "see" but one of the actuators is broken and therefore can't follow the commands of the computer; the engine won't run correctly. The computer is preprogrammed with set values for each of its sensors, and each of its actuators. It will run a self check of all systems, like the space shuttle; it will compare its set value(s) to the value(s) it recieves from its sensors, and actuators. If any sensor or acutator is out of the "normal" range the computer will generate a "code." It will generate some codes on the fly, and others will be stored while you are driving. There is a simple method to "pull codes" out of the computer for one to use for diagnostic purposes.
Earlier versions of On Board Diagnostics OBD 1983-1995 can flash the error code to the dash board and can be pulled in one's driveway without any special tools.
Later versions of On Board Diagnostics OBDII some 1995, and pretty much all 1996 and newer, require one to use a code reader or scanner tool.
Some auto parts stores will scan your engine codes for FREE, you may want to call around. Some will scan OBDII but not the older (prior to 1996) OBD systems.
SO here you go...
How to scan FORD on board Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) in your driveway

HowTo Pull Codes 1983-1995 Broncos, Mustang, F series Trucks, Econolines, 302, 351 and more


Howto locate a vacuum leak
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/engine-drivetrain/94-howto-how-locate-vacuum-leak.html#post423

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

tried pulling codes but no matter how I tried it it would not begin flashing no matter how long I waited.... I even tried it running but it would still not flash codes.

is the test plug suposed to be pluged into anything?

it has went from choking out compleatly to back firing through the intake if I give it alot of gas to the floor, it pops and sputters but dosent shut off.

 

[BroncoJoe19]

tried pulling codes but no matter how I tried it it would not begin flashing no matter how long I waited

Please recheck the diagram posted in that link to be sure that you are jumpering the correct pins.
You may have a blown fuse. It is on the same circuit as the cigar lighter.
How to check your fuse
http://www.fordforumsonline.com/forum/electrical-lighting/128-howto-check-your-fuses.html

I'm thinking that back-fireing through the intake is often a jumped tooth in the timing chain, and that the valve timing is off.
Check compression.

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

alright I managed to get the codes to fire off and read an the TPS sensor is bad (which I have a new one since I knew it might be bad), the EGR valve ( its not pluges up so I have to get a t-valve to hook it up or figure out where it hooks up), and the other was a code on the inner parts of the distrubitor being dirty so I cleaned that out. It still continued to act a fool so we messed with the timing and found out a few things, on the correct plug spots you can move the distrubitor all the way to the left and it will turn over without being primed through the intake. so we rotated the plugs one spot clockwise all the way aroung the distributor cap to see if this would help. It went to the complete opposite and you have to move the distributor all the way to the right to get it to fire on its own.

I have a buddy finding a new distributor to see if this will help but I think broncojoe19 may be right on the timing chain LOL

 

[rc_mcwaters3]

is there any way to check and dee if the timing chain is bad without pulling the whole front of the motor off?