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Discussion Starter #1
I have had the started replaced three times in the past six months, it was eating the teeth off the last time. Lfy wheel does not look bad, but does have a few burs on it. I have put in a new red top battery, having the altinator rebuilt as we speak. I have also replaced the starter relay under the dash, it was draining my battery. There is no loose connections and I have replaced all wiring that goes to starter. When started it makes a loud grinding almost like it binds and bangs then tries to turn over. the next time it will be normal. Other than a new flywheel, what else am I missing? :banghead
 

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I doubt your relay was draining your battery. You have a problem you should address before you destroy another starter. If the teeth on your flywheel is chewed up you should replace that and you may need to throw a shim or two between your starter and the motor. I know my pontiac 350 will make a horrible noise if I don't throw in a couple of shims.
 

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Are you sure you are getting the right starter? There is a different one for a A/T vs M/T. The tooth count on the fly wheel is different between the two. Also, what is the length of the snout on the starter? I'll measure the length of the one sitting on my bench and post later.

Not sure about that starter relay under the dash, it should be out on the passenger fender.

Ron
 

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The snout is 1.75" long and the teeth are exposed approximately .25". This is a starter for a manual transmission.


Ron
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have just been having the old one rebuilt. I may have called the part I replaced the wrong item. It is under the dash ,little black box that connects to the large mass of wiring. before I replaced this small item under the dash ,after the engine was off it began to click on and off, if the bronco sat a few days the battery would have to be jumped off. now I have solved that problem, I hope that the shim Idea will work. I do not recall there being one, but I could be wrong. I wll try that first then, go for the fly wheel. I am just trying to stall on dropping the tranny and tcase as of yet . Thanks for the help. the little box was under the dash area of the steering column. I have gotten most of all my problems fixed by reading what yall have done, so i figured this one could be fixed with yalls knowledge as well. Again thanks for the responses. Skinner :rockon
I have a c6 as well if that helps
 

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Hey skinner... I just noticed you from Thomaston, I moved back here in 04 from Griffin. I know all the auto-trans Bronco's I've had have had a shim/dust cover between the engine and tranny behind the flywheel. I failed to re-install that on one of my bronco's when I did an engine swap and it ate starters and made the sounds you described until I pulled it apart and put the shim back in. If that shim is in place you shouldn't have to shim the starter, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to try it?
 

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If you don't tighten both bolts equally upon install it will make a funny sound and last about a month.
 

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waltman said:
I know my pontiac 350 will make a horrible noise if I don't throw in a couple of shims.
Shimmed starters is a Chebby thing... shouldn't need shims on a Ford if you have the right starter/flywheel.
 

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JahWarrior said:
Shimmed starters is a Chebby thing... shouldn't need shims on a Ford if you have the right starter/flywheel.
WRONG !
You do need to shim ford starters !
I have a 66' mustang w/ 351w
and a 85' bronco w/351

I too was going though starters.

Both starters HAVE to be shimmed or it will make a horrable noise and eat the starter gear while it's running.
 

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I had to shim my 88's starters too Jah, but it is an autozone junker.
 

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psygn0sis said:
I said "shouldn't". And this is a fact. If the starter had a shim from the factory, you would want to reuse it. Chevy uses the same starter for several different engine/tranny combos, thus the wide use of shims, and small number of chevy starter models. Ford has different model starters for different combinations. Google up "chevy starter shims", and enjoy the plethora of info you will find. You don't find chevy starters that don't come with shims. Then try a "Ford starter shims" search. You find jack... And you'll also find that Ford starters don't come with shims, they ask you for a specific combination. Do I believe you had to use a shim? Sure. However, you "shouldn't" have to with the correct parts.
 

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While we are on this subject, does anyone know if you need any special tools to rebuild a starter. And is it something that requires mechanical skills comparable to superman? My 90 has a starter that is dragging ALOT. Sometimes after a good thirty minute drive, she wont start again when I stop to get gas. Let her sit for about fifteen minutes, and she will start again after a little struggling. I think that it is because the starter gets hot. I might be wrong,but at least if I am, then some of you got a good laugh. The battery is holding a charge, and the alternater is new. Any help would be appreciated. Sean
 

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9bronco0 said:
While we are on this subject, does anyone know if you need any special tools to rebuild a starter. And is it something that requires mechanical skills comparable to superman? My 90 has a starter that is dragging ALOT. Sometimes after a good thirty minute drive, she wont start again when I stop to get gas. Let her sit for about fifteen minutes, and she will start again after a little struggling. I think that it is because the starter gets hot. I might be wrong,but at least if I am, then some of you got a good laugh. The battery is holding a charge, and the alternater is new. Any help would be appreciated. Sean
If you have headers and no heat shield than for sure it is likely time for a new starter. It could also be a bad connection somewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I have tried all of the above and nothing has changed. I assume now it is the fly wheel. I am going to pull it all and replace the fly wheel next week. I have searched and come up witha few good tips. if yall know of anything I am missing let me know before I tackle this monster.

an extra long extension for the socket. For getting to the bolts on top of bellhousing

make sure the torque converter is all the way in on the input shaft
unbolt the converter from the fly wheel before you pull the transmission out.

2 six inch pieces of 3/8" all-thread and thread them in the second and fifth bolt holes on the block. Then just slide the trans on the 2 studs and push it forward to the block. Them install the top 2 bolts first, then the bottom 2, then remove the all-thread studs and put the other bolts in place.

To get to the flywheel/torque converter bolts, you'll need to remove the lower inspection/dust cover (close to where the starter is, which you'll have to remove also). You'll see the bolts there, as well as the torque converter drain plug. You'll also have to move (rotate) the flywheel to get to all the torque converter bolts. To do that, you'll need to manually turn the front crankshaft bolt (at the front of the engine) in order to rotate the crankshaft and flywheel. As you rotate the flywheel, you'll see the other bolts as they come around to the open inspection/dust cover area

Make sure the dowel pins are both in place on the engine block. They are the pins that actually align the trans and the engine.

Thanks for all the help.
 

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Should be an easy job skinner. We can swap clutches on mine in about 5 hours, not much more to it on yours even though it's auto trans.

The all-thread is a good idea. Wish I had thought of that about 10 years ago.

Do all the bronco floor pans have the hole in them for the manual shifter? If so and if you can peal back your carpet/rubber mat and remove some kind of plate covering that hole it will give you a great access to those top 2 bolts. A 12" extension with a wobble or swivel on the end would get you right to them.

Also, if you remove your spark plugs it will make it easier to rotate the engine and index your torque converter bolts. I almost lost a finger doing that one time with the spark plugs in.

Go out the night before you start and spray every bolt you can see with penetrating oil.... WD40 or something like it. Don't forget to spray your trans lines. You don't want the nut binding on the line and twisting it up.

Be sure to put a jack under the front of your I-6 before you seperate the trans. It drops in the front a little when you seperate them, and it's easier to get the trans to line back up and stab if you can jack up the front of the motor a little. Just use a couple of wood blocks between them so you don't screw anything up.

Hey, be glad it's an I-6 and you don't have to mess with the exhaust running right under the bell housing or anything.

Good Luck!
 

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While we are on this subject, does anyone know if you need any special tools to rebuild a starter. And is it something that requires mechanical skills comparable to superman? My 90 has a starter that is dragging ALOT. Sometimes after a good thirty minute drive, she wont start again when I stop to get gas. Let her sit for about fifteen minutes, and she will start again after a little struggling. I think that it is because the starter gets hot. I might be wrong,but at least if I am, then some of you got a good laugh. The battery is holding a charge, and the alternater is new. Any help would be appreciated. Sean
you need alot of special tools to rebuild a starter. and a few odd ones too. You'll need a "growler" to check the armature. it looks like a V and is magnetic, you set it in and spin it and see if it growls. if it does you have a internal short. then you have to make sure the magnetism stays inside the armature by running a metal hacksaw blade about 2 inches over the top while you rotate it on the growler, if it gets sucked down, it needs to be replaced. Its best to just have a professional shop do it.
 

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Do you still have the block plate installed? this is what aligns a ford starter. Check the block dial pins and also the holes they go into on the bell houseing to see if they are worn/not fitting tight. Check for a cracked bell houseing. Also those teeth on the ring gear should have sharp edges, if not it needs to be replaced. You can also try useing a 10 tooth bendix on a worn ring gear. If you try this get a bendix for an early 80s ford escort. It will work (some times)and yes I have done this. If one of the above doesnt help you are sol, lol. Good luck.
 
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