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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I pulled off the freeway after pulling my boat for about 30 miles and noticed the bronco running rough at the stop light. It runs rough under acceleration as well. I drove 55 mph all the way pulling the boat and did not notice the problem until after I came to a stop at the first intersection after exiting the freeway. I thought I might be running out of gas but it still continued running rough after putting gas in the truck. Any ideas where to start looking? No check engine light so I'm going to go plug the code reader in and see if there are any stored codes and report back what I find. This truck is starting to nickle and dime me to death.
 

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If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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Codes first....

My first thoughts if the codes don't point to a direction is vacuum lines. Check to make sure they are in good order.

The next thing would be your fuel filter. Did you by chance fill up on your boating trip? May be a batch of bad gas. Might have water in it or enough trash to mess up the flow coming through the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
New fuel pump and filter within the last 2 years. I filled the tank up in a normal Arco in Galt ca no where near any water ways.

I just pulled codes. Not sure if I did it correctly. I misplaced the Innova 3145 user manual.

Here are the codes I pulled KOER

111
40
10
538
536
632
 

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Yo N2
111 is a pass code and you should jut see 3 digit codes.

Google your scanner make and part number for an on line manual and try test again.
Or try How to Use the Actron Cp9135 Auto Code Reader @ How to Use the Actron Cp9135 Auto Code Reader

536
X
X
Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test
538
X
Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error
632 Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD).
632 in KOER, Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD).

On vehicles equipped with Transmission Control Switch (TCS) such as E4OD, the switch must be cycled after the ID code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the TCS. TCS = Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) on E4OD it is also ref to as the OD on/off LED/Switch @ end of tranny gear stalk or on dash.
□■●
Some no code perpetrators;
168995


See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl jowens126 HVAC Control Panel info & Mikey350 tests @ Help with dtc codes and idle
Tip, "When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost."
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I just installed the temp sender and the gauge on the dash looks good now (y)

168999


Here is a yourtube video of how the truck is running. RPM range does not matter. I think its time to pull the distributor and take a look. I thought about pulling plug wires at the distributor one by one while it's running to see if and when the wire pulled makes a difference to determine if there is a dead cylinder/s if that is what is going on. This old girl wants a total restoration on a hobo's budget but it's just not in the cards lol.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
@miesk5 I'm using the Innova 3145 that every one on here suggests ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
I found the user manual for the Innova 3145 seen in this link. > Manuals and Software

Just ran the KOEO and got 111. Still reading the manual on how to do the KOER test. Will report my findings. If I don't find anything I'll go looking at the link you posted Miesk5 .
 

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95 5.8L MAF XLT, Hedman Shorties/MF SS Y & Muff, E4OD, Man hubs, KYB Quads, 31x10.5x15, 304K miles
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Check: Plugs, Wires, Cap and Rotor, then Injectors, then do a Compression check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
This will have to wait a couple of days. Have to get the s10 hooked up to the boat for a morning trip. Was going to do the timing test after the koer test but apparently I lost or misplaced my dewalt flashlight and 20v battery. Arg. Probably left it under the truck and drove away with it under the truck last friday. Sigh.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yo N2
111 is a pass code and you should jut see 3 digit codes.

Google your scanner make and part number for an on line manual and try test again.
Or try How to Use the Actron Cp9135 Auto Code Reader @ How to Use the Actron Cp9135 Auto Code Reader

536
X
X
Brake On/Off circuit failure / switch not actuated during KOER test
538
X
Insufficient RPM change during KOER dynamic response test/ Operator error
632 Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD).
632 in KOER, Overdrive cancel switch not changing state (E4OD).

On vehicles equipped with Transmission Control Switch (TCS) such as E4OD, the switch must be cycled after the ID code has been displayed. This tests the ability of the EEC system to detect a change of state in the TCS. TCS = Transmission Control Indicator Light (TCIL) on E4OD it is also ref to as the OD on/off LED/Switch @ end of tranny gear stalk or on dash.
□■●
Some no code perpetrators;
View attachment 168995

See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 incl jowens126 HVAC Control Panel info & Mikey350 tests @ Help with dtc codes and idle
Tip, "When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the condition. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause conditions such as rough idle, missing on acceleration, or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit, such as the power brake, the unit will not function correctly. Or Air Conditioning when in MAX mode may switch to Defrost."

I am assuming you meant take a look at post number 9 from the link you provided as it is the last post in that thread.

Vacuum leak seems logical and hopefully no valves are burned up. I did notice a couple of days ago after getting in it for a trip to go out fishing that the brake pedal felt a little more mushy than it use to be. Perhaps it is a leaking brake booster. It feels mushy whether it is running or not which to me seems like it's not likely related to the brake booster. I'll have to check it out once I get back to my house.
 
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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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I found my vacuum leak by pulling off vacuum hoses from the intake manifold 1 at a time & plugging the port with my finger to see what the idle did. As soon as i pulled the hose going to the cruise control and held my finger over the vacuum port, my idle instantly settled into a normal rythym. A vacuum cap fixed that problem.
The cruise control module had rusted thru causing a vacuum leak. I still can't find a new one for my 86!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Can you seal it back up with something like jb weld?
 

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1986 Eddie Bauer 5.0EFI AOD Full length headers Y pipe into single 3" Magnaflow 3" factory exit
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That cruise control unit is shot, rusted all the way around the diameter, where the plastic and metal meet, not a big deal, ill find one eventually, used or new, its not a show stopper. Point was about helping you out & finding if its a vacuum leak with a few some easy testing methods.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Good idea I'll give that a shot.
 

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And not just for fire, watch the light on each one for at least a minute. See if you notice any changes in the light pattern.

I had one recently that ran like crap. Timing light showed me something was wrong with all cylinders from the frequency of the light... popped the distributor cap and there it was.... a 4CYL & V6 rotor inside spinning around inside a V8 distributor.



 

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do you have cats on your Bronco? wondering if you have a blockage..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Oh wow, I am surprised that ran at all!!
exactly
do you have cats on your Bronco? wondering if you have a blockage..
Cali vehicle of course it has cats and one of the reasons I'm not driving it. No sense in burning them up. Oh and this thing ran like a top before this. I think it's either internal mechanical like a burnt valve or vacuum leak like the brake booster.
 
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