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Discussion Starter #1
So i was driving down the road today when my Bronco suddenly just died on me like I ran out of gas. I have half a tank but just to be safe I dumped some more in with a gas can. I primed it like four or five times but it still would turn over. So i sat there for like ten minutes then it fired right up. Drove it about three miles and it died again. So I decided to replace my fuel pump and filter seeing as how it had been making some really gnarly noises. I get that done and it fired right up. I go inside for like thirty minutes and try to fire it up again but it won't fire up. I let it sit for an hour and then if fired right up. It seems like I have to wait a while for it to start. Any idea what the problem could be. I put a new starter in it yesterday so could that be affecting it at all? Sorry about the length! It's just really starting to anger me. Thanks!
 

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check the routing of your fuel lines if they are realy close to your exhaust the heat can cause your fuel to evaporate which will creat a buble in your line and depending on the presure being exerted against the fuel can actualy cause vapor lock once the fuel cools and turns back in to a liquid it will fire back up so thats where i would start.
 

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I had that happen in a 454 tow truck i owned. The fuel line close to exhaust thing may just be your issue.

Other than that, You may have some crap/water in your tank that is getting sucked up every so often and clogging your in tank filter. Or you may have an issue with your coil getting hot and going out on you.

there's a few things that could be, but start with those, and pull some codes it might be something else...
 

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penis
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Check your ignition control module, on my GF's 93 silverado was doing the same thing after a fuel pump lines and just about everything else ended up being a $20 part
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay, I'll get out there and check the fuel lines. That would make sense though, it always starts up when it's cold but the second it gets warm it just dies, and refuses to start.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I checked the fuel lines and they are in fact a good distance from the exhaust. Someone said it might be my coil. Is that a possibility?
 

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2nd mouse gets the cheese
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not sure on the 302s but i had a similar prob on my 89 300 when the tfi (thick film ignition module) got hot the bronco died would start when it cooled off. tfi was on the side of the dizzy on the 300. if yours is the same id pull codes then get that tested a couple times in a row at your local parts store.
 

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i had the same issue with my 69 mustang. it ended up being the resistance wire that goes from the ignition switch to the coil. i upgraded the ignition system to msd dist, coil, 8.8 wires, and better plugs and it started to draw toomuch voltage through it and would get hot and shut off. then fire back up 20-30 min later. i just replaced that wire with a normal wire and it never happend again. maybe same problem with urs?
 

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I had this in a bronco once and it turned out I was low on water. I had a shop change the coolant, and they didn't know to top off and burp the system as you really need to do with bronco's so the level was low. For whatever reason when the fluid is that low you loose volume, and got much lower. I had the same exact symptoms as you describe. Probably not it but doesn't hurt to check. I think a sensor shuts down the engine to protect it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
oh okay. I'll check that out. I went ahead and put a new coil on today. I checked it last night while it wouldn't start and it wasn't sparking. So I put the new one in and it's doing the same exact thing. Brand new coil not sparking while it's warm. I am lost and really annoyed. I really appreciate it guys!
 

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oh okay. I'll check that out. I went ahead and put a new coil on today. I checked it last night while it wouldn't start and it wasn't sparking. So I put the new one in and it's doing the same exact thing. Brand new coil not sparking while it's warm. I am lost and really annoyed. I really appreciate it guys!
Take your ignition module to your local parts store and have them test it. It is the most likely culprit. Then right behind it the pick up in the dizzy and lastly a lack of power going to these componets or the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Do any of you know if there is a write up or something on replacing the ICM? I am having a hell of a time trying to get it off the side of the distributor. Is it a screw or a bolt? Much thanks!
 

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penis
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Do any of you know if there is a write up or something on replacing the ICM? I am having a hell of a time trying to get it off the side of the distributor. Is it a screw or a bolt? Much thanks!
I have done this: it is a safety torox (spl) that you haave to pickup from the auto parts store
Step 1: remove distributor cap
Step 2: make the distributor,
step 3: loosen hold down bolt
step 4: move dizzy
step 5: unbolt old ICM
step 6: unplug ICm
step 7: clean mating area on the side of the dizzy
step 8: apply the white grease to the new ICM
step 9: reinstall (go from step 6 and up)
step 10: line up timing marks (retime if need be)
step 11: drive it to see if you have any issues

I will be sending you a PM with my number if you need some more help.
 
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