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Discussion Starter #1
1995 Bronco keeps shutting off?

95 EB Bronco, 5.8, 185,000 miles. Daily Driver

I'm stumped, Driving down the road the tach drops to zero, the engine light comes on and the engine shuts off? Some times it will start it self back up and some times I have to stop and then it will start??? When I stop sometimes it will start right back up and sometimes it will take 5 or 10 min.
It always starts cold.
Any idea's????
After many searches, this is what I have found
Here is what I have done so far
replaced ignition module
replaced IAC
replaced fuel filter
1/2 can Sea foamed thru brake vacuum
full can Sea foam in tank
 

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Have you tried pulling codes on er yet?? I would do that first. My PIP was bad in mine and it did the exact same thing, but before you go replacing that or any more parts, pull codes. If you dont know how, do a search for pulling codes and you will find lots of info, the procedure is also listed in the Haynes manual.... let us know what you come up with.
 

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aka: kemicalburns
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PULL CODES and worry about what you get from that first. it could be a simple as a bad battery cable or loose battery cable. so also check the easy stuff first.
 

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Kitteh Commandaar!
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If yout don't get any codes...may be a loose ground wire on the block, like kemical burns said, check battery cables too.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Pulled cods, nadda!
I would think if the cables were lose the battery would not keep a charge?
I will check cable when I get home...any thing else to check?
 

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Is your climate really cold? I know my Bronco will do that if an extreme amount of really cold air is pouring in. I put some cardboard infront of the radiator to keep the temp from varying. They also make those bra things that have snapon covers. I dont know if this'll help, worth a try if you can't think of anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yea, it's cold here but It has been doing it off and one for 6 months so the temp isn't really a factor. As a matter of fact there is no pattern at all when it shuts off....
 

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How about how much fuel you have in the tank?

I went through this same scenario and found out when the fuel level was really low it would allow the fuel to stay heated from the motor return line. I was getting a type of vapor lock. When it shut off, I would have to remove the fuel line at the front of the fuel filter and bleed off the pressure. Truck would fire right up every time. Really weird.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
How about how much fuel you have in the tank?

I went through this same scenario and found out when the fuel level was really low it would allow the fuel to stay heated from the motor return line. I was getting a type of vapor lock. When it shut off, I would have to remove the fuel line at the front of the fuel filter and bleed off the pressure. Truck would fire right up every time. Really weird.
It happens on a full tank or an 1/8 tank and anywhere in between....
Really weird...I replace the ignition module then drove it 1000 miles (many in the Smokey Mountains)in one week on vacation,,,,,NO PROBLEMS?
 

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Pulled cods, nadda!
By nadda, do you mean your light didnt flash at all? Did you do pull both sets of codes, key on engine off and key on engine running?? No trying to push it but want to make sure you have covered all aspects of pulling codes before you diagnose futher......
 

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Ok, so you are past pulling codes.

I would be looking at 2 suspects: Leaking EGR valve and intermittent wiring.

Search here for EGR valve. It comes up often enough. Basically behaves like a vacuum leak when stuck open.

How do the gauges behave when this happens? If the gauges behave as if the switch was cut off, it's wiring. If the gauges behave normally, it could still be wiring, at some point beyond the gauge conection.

There is a white / black tracer wire ( if my antique memory serves ) that feeds the coil or coils. I would tap into that, run a line into the interior and run a small 12V light off that. If the light goes dead when the truck goes dead, you know what the problem is. If it stays on...

Yet another possibility is a coil that cuts out when it gets hot.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The gauges all drop like the key has been truned off and the check engine light comes on....If I am rolling fast enough it will restart it self.

EGR valve? Hmmmmm? I'll search, thanks
 

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If its me, I would go get a haynes manual and pull codes myself, just to make sure (okay, I have trust issues). Then, I begin the ignition diagnosis procedure in the haynes manual to eliminate the possiblities of wiring/harness/ignition component issues. Both of the above procedures are good to know/learn if you havent already. Especially pulling codes.....

Also, where did you get your ingnition module and what brand is it?? You could pull that and have it tested seperatly just to confirm its good.....
 

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"The gauges all drop like the key has been truned off and the check engine light comes on...."

Symptomatic of "Juice go bye-bye". Start eyeballing the schematics.

EGR stuck open causes misbehavior at low speeds. Engine idles down slowly at stoplights, stalls if you open the throttle suddenly at low speeds or brake suddenly at slow speeds. Vacuum leak is a bigger percentage of the mixture at low speeds. Would not affect the gauges, except the tach if you have one.
 

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Is your climate really cold? I know my Bronco will do that if an extreme amount of really cold air is pouring in. I put some cardboard infront of the radiator to keep the temp from varying. They also make those bra things that have snapon covers. I dont know if this'll help, worth a try if you can't think of anything else.
Um, no. If your thermostat is working correctly, putting cardboard in front of your radiator isn't doing you anything good. Cold air would have almost nothing whatsoever to do with what he's describing.

How about how much fuel you have in the tank?

I went through this same scenario and found out when the fuel level was really low it would allow the fuel to stay heated from the motor return line. I was getting a type of vapor lock. When it shut off, I would have to remove the fuel line at the front of the fuel filter and bleed off the pressure. Truck would fire right up every time. Really weird.
Our EFI cannot vapor lock. You had something else wrong.




If you're saying all of your dash just goes dead and the truck dies, you have a power problem somewhere. Start by looking at every large power wire starting at the battery and working all the way to under your dash. Check all of your grounds...
 

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Um, no. If your thermostat is working correctly, putting cardboard in front of your radiator isn't doing you anything good. Cold air would have almost nothing whatsoever to do with what he's describing.



Our EFI cannot vapor lock. You had something else wrong.
I said a type of vapor lock. The fuel would heat up and boil, building pressure. Then the engine side would bleed off and starve for fuel and the pump would not overcome the pressure until it was bleed off at the filter. A unique problem definitely and yes there were issues to cause it. I just remembered it when I read his post as I went through the same troubleshooting until I realized it was fuel starvation and pulled the line to check pressure. Hot, very pressurized fuel came out. reconnect and lo and behold, truck fires right up.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I put a new EGR valve on last night, after it gets warmed up it starts stalling/dieing/ same symptoms as before (kinda) this time when it stalls out it just quietly dies….before it would buck and clunk then die?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
(If you're saying all of your dash just goes dead and the truck dies, you have a power problem somewhere. Start by looking at every large power wire starting at the battery and working all the way to under your dash. Check all of your grounds...)

The dash doesn't go dead, the Tach drops to zero & the engine light comes on.
 
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