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Discussion Starter #1
So, 2wks ago I towed my homemade 10x6 trailer and a Polaris Ranger 570 250 miles at about 65 to 70mph with my 94 bronco 5.8L(230k miles). The bronco is my daily driver(40 miles daily 5 days a week). The following day I was heading to work when I noticed the bronco was making a noise similar to what mud tires would make. If I let off the gas the sound almost goes away, but comes back as soon as I step on the gas again. Motor oil was changed out using all synthetic and tranny fluids are normal levels. Not sure what to make of the sound or it’s origin. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Lafayette, La
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Any idea of what direction its coming from? Differential maybe? I don't recall specifically, but I had a similar issue but I think on deceleration. So opposite of your symptoms it sounds like.
I just remember the hum from what I thought was new tires. I recently did a gear swap and my pinion bearing was pretty bad off. The noise I attributed to new tires was actually the bearing. Actually much quieter now. Just a thought. I'm sure someone more experienced will chime in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When I stick my head out the driver side window, it seems the noise is coming from the rear area.
 

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84 Bronco, 351w, c6, custom doubler, np208, 5.13’s, TTB44, 9”, locked f/r
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Wiggle on the driveshaft, see if the pinion flange, (which is where the driveshaft bolts to the rear end), has any play in it. It's possible the pinion nut came loose and the howl is the pinion bearings and the gear mesh in the rear end going all wonky as it gets torqued out of where it should ride due to the slop from the loose nut. I've had that happen a few times myself
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Second on retorquing the pinion nut. You may save it if it just started the noise. I had one come loose once.
I stopped 2 blocks from the house and came back when I heard the noise. I’ll check the nut and driveshaft for any play.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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It’s either a 1-1/16 or 1-1/8 can’t remember.
"Dana 60, Dana 70 Pinion Nut Genuine Dana-Spicer all-metal, prevailing torque type lock nut is the original equipment replacement part for most Dana-Spicer Model 60, 61, 70, and 70HD front and rear axles. Use 1-5/16" socket."
...No? 🤷‍♀️

@joel45acp this might interest you if it is nut issues
 

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The Tennessee Warden
96 XL, 5.8L, E4OD, BW1356, 4.56 gears
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"Dana 60, Dana 70 Pinion Nut Genuine Dana-Spicer all-metal, prevailing torque type lock nut is the original equipment replacement part for most Dana-Spicer Model 60, 61, 70, and 70HD front and rear axles. Use 1-5/16" socket."
...No?

@joel45acp this might interest you if it is nut issues
That would be for big daddy axles. The 8.8 pinion nut isn’t that big. I remember having to go out specifically to buy the socket for mine because I didn’t have anything bigger than 15/16 at the time. (y)

And yes, retorquing the pinion nut isn’t the “proper method” for setting pinion depth, preload, and gear lash, etc. It is, however, something that can be done (sort of a backyard fix) to fix a loose pinion if it’s coming loose.
 

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82 XLT Lariat 351w, Edelbrock 1406 4bbl ,C6 auto, auto locking hubs ,33x10.5x15
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That would be for big daddy axles. The 8.8 pinion nut isn’t that big. I remember having to go out specifically to buy the socket for mine because I didn’t have anything bigger than 15/16 at the time. (y)

And yes, retorquing the pinion nut isn’t the “proper method” for setting pinion depth, preload, and gear lash, etc. It is, however, something that can be done (sort of a backyard fix) to fix a loose pinion if it’s coming loose.
Thanks for the info 👍
 
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