Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 17 of 17 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I have a 1994 Bronco w/ 5.0

What happens is if I start driving it after awhile it starts to lose power and then shuts off. After sitting for 30 mins or so it goes again only of course shuts off sooner. Someone told me it maybe the coil pack?

I parked the bronco Aug 2010 and quit driving it other than around the yard once a month or so. Started thinking about what a waste it was just sitting there so I want to get it up and running, use for hunting.

Any suggestions where to start?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
665 Posts
I would pull the codes before spent any $$$ on parts. Do a search on pulling codes or you can buy a code reader. I just got one a couple weeks ago for about $35.00 at Oriellys. Well worth the money.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I would pull the codes before spent any $$$ on parts. Do a search on pulling codes or you can buy a code reader. I just got one a couple weeks ago for about $35.00 at Oriellys. Well worth the money.
any particular model code reader?

And can I assume that a code reader will work for multiple vehicles, such as my wrangler, f-150, and murano?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,990 Posts
It sounds like the ignition module is failing, very common to drive then stall with engine cranking but no immediate restart, cools off and restarts like nothing's wrong then repeats same cycle......PITA
Different year BKO's have either a TFI module = thick film integrated module directly mounted on the distributor and it uses a special grease on the back for heat sink which is why they fail after a time but you can have it tested for FREE at most auto stores BUT test several times for passing grade or replace with a Motorcraft.

Other style modules can be TFI but they're remote located in the engine bay so test same AND test the ignition coil FREE while you're at it.

Pulling codes from the computer is the BEST way to find out what's going on with the Bronco either elec/electronically but requires using either an OBD-I or II Ford Code Reader with diagnostic book, costs $29.99 anywhere, FSB member Ryan McCormick's www.fordfuelinjection.com is down due to legal matters so try Ryan's www.rjminjectiontech.com may have fault code explanations or look in the code reader book if/when you get one, worth it's weight in gold IMO.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,976 Posts
Could also be the PIP in the distributor.
 

·
Wrenching for a Livin'
Joined
·
6,949 Posts
The obd1 code readers are normally brand specific.
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3145-Fo...0KHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322594136&sr=8-1

This is the one I bought and love. Its about the best "code reader" for obd1. It will pull continuous memory, key on engine off and key on engine running codes/tests.

As far as your issue, it doesn't sound the truck is overheating, but like others have said, its probably ignition related. A bad/failing coil, failing TFI(ignition module) or maybe a failing pip sensor(sensor inside the distributor).

A failing TFI or PIP will probably throw a code, a failing coil may or may not, or could set a TFI code.

If you have not tuned the truck up in the last 30-40k now would be a goodtime to do it. New plugs/wires/cap/rotor, and a coil. If you shop around you can pickup everything for a good tuneup for less than $100.

Pull codes firt thou
 

·
Wrenching for a Livin'
Joined
·
6,949 Posts
Also, if the pip is bad, normally its easier to just replace the whole distributor with a rebuild. A good pip sensor is a little pricey and it requires removing the dist. shaft for replacement
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
It sounds like the ignition module is failing, very common to drive then stall with engine cranking but no immediate restart, cools off and restarts like nothing's wrong then repeats same cycle......PITA
Different year BKO's have either a TFI module = thick film integrated module directly mounted on the distributor and it uses a special grease on the back for heat sink which is why they fail after a time but you can have it tested for FREE at most auto stores BUT test several times for passing grade or replace with a Motorcraft.

Other style modules can be TFI but they're remote located in the engine bay so test same AND test the ignition coil FREE while you're at it.

Pulling codes from the computer is the BEST way to find out what's going on with the Bronco either elec/electronically but requires using either an OBD-I or II Ford Code Reader with diagnostic book, costs $29.99 anywhere, FSB member Ryan McCormick's www.fordfuelinjection.com is down due to legal matters so try Ryan's www.rjminjectiontech.com may have fault code explanations or look in the code reader book if/when you get one, worth it's weight in gold IMO.

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
Thanks, this sounds like it may lead me down the right path.

So I buy a code reader and based on the code kicked back I use the diagnostic book to tell. Lets assume it is the ignition module. How do I tell which one I have? And how easy is it to fix? Can I do myself with a buddy or is this mechanic level?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
The obd1 code readers are normally brand specific.
http://www.amazon.com/Equus-3145-Fo...0KHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322594136&sr=8-1

This is the one I bought and love. Its about the best "code reader" for obd1. It will pull continuous memory, key on engine off and key on engine running codes/tests.

As far as your issue, it doesn't sound the truck is overheating, but like others have said, its probably ignition related. A bad/failing coil, failing TFI(ignition module) or maybe a failing pip sensor(sensor inside the distributor).

A failing TFI or PIP will probably throw a code, a failing coil may or may not, or could set a TFI code.

If you have not tuned the truck up in the last 30-40k now would be a goodtime to do it. New plugs/wires/cap/rotor, and a coil. If you shop around you can pickup everything for a good tuneup for less than $100.

Pull codes firt thou
I agree, do not think truck is overheatign but def ignition related.

So in order I hope it is a coil, then TFI, and really hope it is not a pip sensor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Also, if the pip is bad, normally its easier to just replace the whole distributor with a rebuild. A good pip sensor is a little pricey and it requires removing the dist. shaft for replacement
At that point am I putting more into the truck that it is worth? Or when you say pricey are you talking $100-150?
 

·
Wrenching for a Livin'
Joined
·
6,949 Posts
A rebuilt distributor is about $100 on rockauto.com. A good pip is $50 and you still have to install it(alot of people find this intimidating)

but again, pull codes before you start buying parts
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
9,990 Posts
PIP = profile ignition pickup - is the term used for the signal sent from the Ford EDIS to the electronic control module (ECM) and it's located on the distributor shaft so you'd need to pull the dissy out, press out the roll pin with an appropriate tool, big C clamp in a vice grip then remove the gear and the PIP collar slides off. They're not that expensive by themselves or as suggested go with a new reman distributor where in some cases the TFI and PIP come with the distributor along with a 1 year warranty for your trouble.

See what the outcome is with the "ignition module" first, go back and re-read post# 7 the answer is there......:doh0715:


Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
Top