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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking for a wheeling rig and I've stumbled across a 1990 Bronco for sale recently for $650. The dealer says that it has 37,000 miles, which I'm sure it's safe to assume it has 137,000. From what I've been able to dig up, it has a 5.0, and an AOD from the shift pattern in the pic.

Now the reason why they're selling it so cheap is because they think the tranny needs replaced. After some prodding over the phone, they told me that it's shifting really hard and that's their reason for thinking that it needs replaced. I was wondering if there's any adjustments on the tranny like a TV cable or something simple that could cause this. While I was searching, it seemed like the norm for most people is that the AOD shifts hard from 1st to 2nd. I'm just curious as to wether or not it could actually be something simple, if not then oh well, it looks more than worth the $650 price tag even if the tranny really needs replaced.

Here's some pics they sent me.








Thanks in advance for any help given.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I thought that could be a possibility, but I doubt the dealer would know if it has one.
 

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if you can check the tittle you might be able to get the actual milage of the truck. i would assume it has 237,000 miles. the damage in the front might be worse than it looks. i would offer a couple hundred for it rebuild the trans and fix the bumper. truck 650+ new trans 1500 + bumper 200 = 2350. i think its a good deal especially if you can find a good used aod for cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
if you can check the tittle you might be able to get the actual milage of the truck. i would assume it has 237,000 miles. the damage in the front might be worse than it looks. i would offer a couple hundred for it rebuild the trans and fix the bumper. truck 650+ new trans 1500 + bumper 200 = 2350. i think its a good deal especially if you can find a good used aod for cheap.
From what I noticed with all of the broncos and f-series that I came across at the junkyard I used to work at, I would think that the driver's seat would be split out and torn up a lot more than it looks in the pics if it had 200,000+. Of course, I could be wrong.

It's located about 3 hours away, so I can't just drive over and take a look on a weekday. I'm thinking about heading down there with a trailer and checking it out. Worst case scenario, it's in a lot worse condition than it looks and I'll end up using it as a parts truck for my f-150.
 

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From what I noticed with all of the broncos and f-series that I came across at the junkyard I used to work at, I would think that the driver's seat would be split out and torn up a lot more than it looks in the pics if it had 200,000+. Of course, I could be wrong.

It's located about 3 hours away, so I can't just drive over and take a look on a weekday. I'm thinking about heading down there with a trailer and checking it out. Worst case scenario, it's in a lot worse condition than it looks and I'll end up using it as a parts truck for my f-150.
My thoughts exactly. For a FSB with 137 or even 237K miles and 20 years old, it's seats ( all of them ) looks great. Also don't for get you have a missing rear bumper ;)


A JY AOD should be under 300 dollars, bumpers ( if you can find them would be 50-80 dollars )

From the sound of it, you have not drive or even seen the truck, right ?

So I would not make an offer until you at least seen it in person, inspected it and drove it on street and highway. For $650 and the dealer claims of 37K, & it's shifting hard, well you get the picture or should get the picture.

If a dealer really had a 1990 FSB Bronco in that condition and the only thing was wrong with it was the auto, I'm 100% positive they would invested the 1-2K in the tranny and sell it for market value of 4-7k dollars.
 

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2 Very important words............ PULL CODES, funny shifts can be caused by anything, the TV cable could be out of adjustment, if an e4od could be a residual code in the system.
 

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My F150 has 240k+ miles on it and the seats are worn, but just mostly faded. I don't think the seats are always an indicator of actual milage.

With the damage to the front, the vehicle doesn't have a salvage title does it? While we all love our vehicles, to an insurance company they are X years old and only worth X amount of money. Fix it, nope here is your check for the value of the vehicle, have a nice day!

tim
 

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FSB "search" above, www.broncolinks.com or Haynes Repair Manual has a procedure for TV cable adjustment for the AOD, you perform it at the top where the throttle linkage is, it's a no brainer AND the FSB "search" there's a video of How To...

I had my AOD rebuilt ($1,300.00) about 5 years ago and now all I have to do is change the filter, fluid and gasket every year and it performs like a swiss watch, cost of filter/gasket kit $10.00 and 6 qt.s fluid maybe $30.00 with tax...and 1 1/2 hour tops....

Definately pull codes from the PCM and I gotta say the BKO looks really clean overall, just keep in mind you are buying a USED vehicle so you'll need to make it your own, ie: cleaning and making a to do list of what it's going to take to bring it up to a reliable DD, though it appears it might not need much.....lol lol.....we're all here to help each other you know.

The most important thing IMO is to become familiar with the fuel injection and emission systems so you understand how they are related to each other so you can get the max performance out of the BKO...ie: MPG's etc. etc.


Good Luck ~
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My thoughts exactly. For a FSB with 137 or even 237K miles and 20 years old, it's seats ( all of them ) looks great. Also don't for get you have a missing rear bumper ;)


A JY AOD should be under 300 dollars, bumpers ( if you can find them would be 50-80 dollars )

From the sound of it, you have not drive or even seen the truck, right ?

So I would not make an offer until you at least seen it in person, inspected it and drove it on street and highway. For $650 and the dealer claims of 37K, & it's shifting hard, well you get the picture or should get the picture.

If a dealer really had a 1990 FSB Bronco in that condition and the only thing was wrong with it was the auto, I'm 100% positive they would invested the 1-2K in the tranny and sell it for market value of 4-7k dollars.
You've pretty much described what I'm going to do when I head down there, I can't make an offer without seeing it in person. I can allways pull the tranny and get it rebuilt if it really needs it, but I don't want to get the dealer thinking that they may be wrong and it's a simple fix so they up the price on it if you know what I mean.

As far as bumpers go, I was looking into getting some aftermarket ones or building some for it since this would be a trail truck anyways.

2 Very important words............ PULL CODES, funny shifts can be caused by anything, the TV cable could be out of adjustment, if an e4od could be a residual code in the system.
From my searching, the shift pattern on the dash means that it's an AOD, the E4OD has a different pattern and a switch to turn the OD off. I have a code reader that I've used on my F-150, it has come in handy to say the least:thumbup.

My F150 has 240k+ miles on it and the seats are worn, but just mostly faded. I don't think the seats are always an indicator of actual milage.

With the damage to the front, the vehicle doesn't have a salvage title does it? While we all love our vehicles, to an insurance company they are X years old and only worth X amount of money. Fix it, nope here is your check for the value of the vehicle, have a nice day!

tim
I believe it's at least a decent indicator, at least for how hard the vehicle has been used. My 89 F-150 has 114,000 miles and the seat is just barely starting to tear. Actually, this bronco looks much better than my F-150 does as far as body and paint goes.

I did ask them about the title and they told me there is no frame damage and the title is clear.

FSB "search" above, www.broncolinks.com or Haynes Repair Manual has a procedure for TV cable adjustment for the AOD, you perform it at the top where the throttle linkage is, it's a no brainer AND the FSB "search" there's a video of How To...

I had my AOD rebuilt ($1,300.00) about 5 years ago and now all I have to do is change the filter, fluid and gasket every year and it performs like a swiss watch, cost of filter/gasket kit $10.00 and 6 qt.s fluid maybe $30.00 with tax...and 1 1/2 hour tops....

Definately pull codes from the PCM and I gotta say the BKO looks really clean overall, just keep in mind you are buying a USED vehicle so you'll need to make it your own, ie: cleaning and making a to do list of what it's going to take to bring it up to a reliable DD, though it appears it might not need much.....lol lol.....we're all here to help each other you know.

The most important thing IMO is to become familiar with the fuel injection and emission systems so you understand how they are related to each other so you can get the max performance out of the BKO...ie: MPG's etc. etc.


Good Luck ~
Thank you, I'll explore all that I can if/when I buy it before deciding that the tranny is toast. I just have a hard time believing that it is.

It's going to be a trail rig, so it probably won't see much DD duty. I'm actually pretty happy that it's very similar to my F-150, so there shouldn't be much on it that can surprise me.

Thanks for the responses everyone.:rockon
 

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For the price, the body looks nice and so doe the interior. If i was in your location and had sources for a 5spd or AOD. I would buy the thin in a heart beat.

just my 2cts , but if you half way mechanical inclined, I would just offer $599 and buy it.
 

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AODS do have a TV cable, and people make adjusting it way harder than it is. They also shift from first through second and into third at about 15 mph which is a total PITA, but fixable in the VB.

If the cable is adjusted too tight the shift points will be harsh and drawn out.
 

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Adjusting the TV cable has 2 simple ways to do it, (1) basic where you just eliminate the "slack" perfoming the procdure up where the cbale is near the throllte linkage OR (2) Gacknar's way, where you have the throttle at WOT and perform the procedure the same way for max shifting performance, here you mayneed an extra pair of hands.....lol lol .....either way it's a no brainer.....

Just find the TV cable adjustment video that's here somewhere.....ie: "search"....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well, I bought it and brought it home yesterday. I've been looking it over extensively, and I haven't found a single rust spot:thumbup. It didn't shift hard or anything when I drove it around there, the only thing that I've noticed is that it takes a second or two before it goes into drive:shrug. I'm planning on changing the tranny filter and fluid anyways as soon as I get my tools back from my brother. They made a mistake on the ad and it actually has a 5.8, the tranny is an AOD, gear ratio looks like 3.55's with open rear.

Here's the pics.









So far I've replaced the battery and bent the bumper halfway straight. I need a rear bumper before I can drive it around here. The driver's window doesn't work and it was sealed in the up position with silicone:banghead, also, the rear window doesn't work, the AC doesn't blow cold, and the door locks don't work. I'll tackle all of that when I get to it, so far I think it's the best vehicle I've ever bought for under $1,000:rockon.

On a side note, the wheels on it are 16's, I never knew that there were any factory 16's from Ford for those years. Unless somebody took the time to drill and tap the wheels from something else to fit those center caps on them.:confused:
 

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I say you have a good deal. If you get tired of it and want to sell it to me. I'll send you cash now and a car carrier to pick it up.

A 90 series wit 5.8L, 3g alternator and AOD, would be my life time dream, plus no rust and a interior that looks damm good. Give me you address and I might just drive up and carjack it from you ;)
 

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The wheels are Dodge rAm rims... say 1997 1500 for the generational reference.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I say you have a good deal. If you get tired of it and want to sell it to me. I'll send you cash now and a car carrier to pick it up.

A 90 series wit 5.8L, 3g alternator and AOD, would be my life time dream, plus no rust and a interior that looks damm good. Give me you address and I might just drive up and carjack it from you ;)
No dice, it at least has to piss me off first before I think about selling it.:toothless

The wheels are Dodge rAm rims... say 1997 1500 for the generational reference.
That's what I thought, but they have those Ford center caps mounted on them that are held on by 3 bolts or screws. I don't see why somebody would take the time to drill and tap those wheels for such a little detail. People are crazy though, so I dunno.:shrug
 

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For the side window you'll need to pull off the door panel and look inside and you'll see the PW motor is riveted or "torque pinned" to the sheetmetal so you'll have to drill them out if you don' have that "tool".....check the regulator arm and grease the toggle and track at the bottom of the window....

For the tailgate start with Steve83's album under "tailgate tech" and you'll find a ton of help there ....

Quickly, if the door striker bolts are out of adjustment and the TG doesn't close flush with the body line the safety switch inside prevents the window from going up/down.. also the bolts have bushings and over time the crack, break and go away, they are the door anti-rattle device's and easily replaced from Autozone, O"Reillys etc. Help section, part # 38424 "door striker bushing kit" for around $5-6.00....

A # T-50 torx socket will loosen the bolts for adjustment, they rotate in place as well as unscrew entirely ..."use the "search" for How To as there's a lot info on this and it's very easy to do AND with the tailgate down check the harness wiring that comes out of the left rear quarter panel near the tail light, over time from opening and closing the wire gets bent, kinked and damaged which can affect voltage as that wire goes into the TG box to the TG PW motor....PITA again because the motor is torqued pinned etc...

In any case if the motors are fubar DON"T waste your money on aftermarket one's because they usually don't fit right and you'll wind up re-inventing the wheel, there are rebuild kits for the broken gear on the internet not expensive for DIY OR have the OEM rebuilt if it's an electric issue because it FITS CORRECTLY inside.....easy peasy!

I found some inexpensive grade bolts with the plastic lock insert that were almost a perfect fit where the 3 bolt goes thru the pw motor housing to bolt to the sheetmetal, I just added heat shrink on the center of the bolt to take up the slack to keep the motor from ratcheting when activated........your call..


Then BKO looks really clean, I like the color.....

Good Luck ~ :thumbup
 

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the wheels could also be of a 96-99 ford f150. i had a 97 that had those from the dealer...

Nice buy, I wish I would have that kinda luck when I picked up mine... looks good!
 
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