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1996 Ford Bronco 5.8
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1996 bronco 5.8. It sat for about a month and when I started it up it ran really bad. When I'm completely stopped it has really bad acceleration and makes a "put put put' noise. It takes probably 30 seconds just to get up to 25 at a stop light. Also my tach is bouncing around when this happens. Even when I step on the gas it sputters a ton. I can't even take it on the highway because the throttle response is terrible and when i get up to 60 it just sits at 4000 rpms and i'm always worried it might blow up on me. I've looked all over a bunch of forums and see people have the same issues as me but nobody has ever found a fix for this. The only codes that come up are for an O2 sensor and my FPR(which ive replaced). I've changed my spark plugs, wires, FPR, and Fuel pump. I don't really want to keep dumping money into it if I keep buying parts for it just for it to run the exact same as it did before. Im wondering if it could be a vaccum leak, or i have clogged cats but I don't really know. Any ideas would really help. Thanks yall.
 

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Yo habinckethan,
Welcome and kudos on having the Best Big Bronco year ever known to man or woman!

What was the Oxygen sensor code?
Here they are;
P0133
Possible Causes:
  • * Contaminated HO2S* Exhaust leaks
  • * Shorted/open wiring
  • * Incorrect fueling
  • * MAF sensor
  • * Deteriorating HO2S
  • * Inlet air leaks
P0135
Possible Causes:
  • * Vacuum hose disconnected on exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system module (ESM) applications... iggie
  • * Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S
  • * Water in the harness connector
  • * Open VPWR circuit
  • * Open GND circuit
  • * Low battery voltage
  • * Corrosion or incorrect harness connections
  • * Damaged HO2S heater
P0136
Possible Causes:
  • * Pinched, shorted, and corroded wiring and pins
  • * Crossed sensor wires
  • * Exhaust leaks
  • * Contaminated or damaged sensor
P0141
Possible Causes:
  • * Vacuum hose disconnected on exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system module (ESM) applications* Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S
  • * Water in the harness connector
  • * Open VPWR circuit
  • * Open GND circuit
  • * Low battery voltage
  • * Corrosion or incorrect harness connections
  • * Damaged HO2S heater
□□□

With No applicable codes for lack of power:
See my Vacuum leak test in post #11 @ Help with dtc codes and idle
Excerpts:
"Borrow or purchase a vacuum gauge and read this Vacuum Gauge Diagnosis @
1996 Bronco/F-Series
The vacuum gauge should read between 15 and 22 in-Hg depending upon the engine condition and the altitude at which the test is performed."
➡Looking for "#15. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal. As the engine rpm is increased, the back-pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tail pipe, etc., will cause the needle to slowly drop to zero. The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idled."

Following by Ford in 1996 Bronco Workshop Manual (partial) @ 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual

With No Codes;

  • Engine Has Lack of Power
  • Fuel system.
  • Ignition system.
  • Electronic engine controls.
  • Restricted exhaust system.

In lieu of this test, an exhaust shop can perform a simple back pressure test, then if needed, down the restriction.

We can address Fuel system and Ignition system later, if needed.
□⊙□

Find out if speed control, if equipped, recall work completed by a dealership. Call local dealer or register and view status @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site; or @ Recalls Look-up by VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) ... have VIN ready.
"Summary: ON CERTAIN PICKUP TRUCKS, PASSENGER VEHICLES, SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES, AND MOTOR HOMES CHASSIS, THE SPEED CONTROL DEACTIVATION SWITCH MAY, UNDER CERTAIN CONDITIONS, LEAK INTERNALLY AND THEN OVERHEAT, SMOKE, OR BURN. THIS COULD RESULT IN AN UNDERHOOD FIRE."
To confirm current status, use this guide by jowens1126 @ 93 & 94-96 Cruise Control Recalls Repair
Note that the 93 recall is different than the 94-96 recall.

For any Bronco questions or to chat about it's planned modifications, it's better to post each seperately in Noobie Bronco Tech Questions. Flame free zone. This will get more attention and you can build up your post count to get into other sections such as Bronco and Ford Parts/Accessories (75 posts required to participate due to scammers who preyed on our members.).

To save you time and for better responses, please fill out your Bronco info with location, year, engine size, transmission type, transfer case type (manual or electric shift), locking hub type (automatic or manual) info & major mods such as a Lift, etc. .
Bronco info is now able to be put under your user name.
Click your profile button in the top right and go to account settings.


On that first page, named Account Details,
View attachment 154412

scroll down to "Vehicle Info" and type in up to 100 characters.
Now you can simply enter your information in the text editor and click save.

See Baba Looey's Favorite FSB Links (lots and lots of tech links)

Here's the 1996 Bronco/F-Series Workshop Manual partial

96 Bronco Owner's Guide, Maintenance Schedules & Parts and Accessories by Ford @ Owner Manuals | fleet.ford.com

96 Bronco Dealer Brochure @ 1996 Ford Bronco Technical Info pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net ... scroll down

96 Bronco Quick Tips Brochure Excerpts & some Eddie Bauer options @ 1983 Ford Bronco 96 EB Bronco Brochures pictures, videos, and sounds | SuperMotors.net

Register to see most Ford dealer maintenance/repairs done @ any dealership nation-wide @ Welcome to Ford Owner | Official Ford Owner Site .

Try to find time to participate and vote in our Full-Size of the Quarter & Full-Size of the Year Contests @ Voting
You will get ideas by those competing. Also see the prizes! They are awesome as compared to other sites' "contests"!
Al
 

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Yo, Part Deux,

159979

159980



159985

159987
 

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Premium Member
If it is not a Bronco, it's just not worth driving.....
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1,400 Posts
Does it smell like it is running rich? I had a similar problem not long ago when I had a injector get stuck open.

To test your injectors you can put a fuel pressure gauge on your fuel rail and see what the pressure is when you turn on the ignition key without starting it. The pressure should build up from one prime to about 10-15 psi. Watch the gauge and see what happens immediately after the fuel pump stops priming. If the pressure slowly drops after about 10 to 15 seconds, that seems to be normal. If the pressure drops off really fast, like in a second or so, you probably have an issue. One of the injectors could be stuck open and dumping the fuel in a cylinder. It also could be back flowing past the fuel regulator.

My injector was stuck open and my truck ran terrible. It smelled really rich and would smoke.

You also could have a bad cylinder. Have you checked the compression on all of your cylinders? If you have a bad valve or bad rings your compression could be affected. No compression equals no power.....
 

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1996 Ford Bronco 5.8
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9 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the feedback yall. I ended up going ahead and changing my injectors not too long ago. Once i took off the top intake I found a rats nest underneath of it and found out that it chewed up 3 of my wires going to the injectors and I was running off 5 cylinders the whole time! I new connectors and tapped it up and it ran like a dream. Only issue I have now is that im getting codes that ots running rich after i jusr replaced my injectors. Any idea how to fix it?
 

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10,007 Posts
The fact that your tach is jumping around means it's 99.9% ignition related.

If the spark can't ground to fire the spark plug, it back feeds into the tach.
 

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Super Moderator
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Yo,
What is the code(s)?
 

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Yo hab,

P0100 Symptoms
  • Check engine light/code stored
  • Poor engine performance
  • Stalling or hesitation
  • Poor fuel economy
Common Causes:
  • Faulty MAF Sensor
  • Unplugged MAF sensor
  • Damaged wiring
  • Loose or corroded terminals in the MAF circuit
Diagnosis and Repair
The first step is to inspect the wiring and connection to the MAF. If there are no signs of damage to the wiring harness going into the MAF and the sensor is properly plugged in, the next thing you need to do is clean the MAF and see if that remedies the issue. Cleaning the MAF is fairly easy.:

1. Remove the connecting air intake, unscrew the metal band holding the MAF to the plastic intake duct and remove the MAF from the car. Use MAF sensor cleaning spray and follow as instructed.

2. Do NOT use carb, brake cleaner, or anything of the sort when cleaning the MAF as it will fry the sensor. Never attempt to use a tool to agitate for the cleaning process. Even a cotton swab can break the wires inside. Also, be very, very careful when handling the MAF as the tiny sensors inside are very delicate and break easily.

If you clean the MAF, check the wiring for damage, and make sure the sensor is plugged in correctly. If the code keeps coming back once it has been erased from the ECM bank, it’s likely that the MAF itself is in need of replacement. A MAF is not a part that malfunctions very often, but it can happen over time, especially if it remains dirty for prolonged periods or something made it past the air intake filter and damaged the wires inside.

P0135 (5.8L V8 VIN H Auto)
HO2S-11 Heater Circuit (Bank 1, Sensor 1)
Print this code data
Number of Trips to Set Code: 2


During testing the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) heaters are checked for open and short circuits and excessive current draw. The test fails when the current draw exceeds a calibrated limit or an open or short circuit is detected.
Possible Causes:
  • * Vacuum hose disconnected on exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system module (ESM) applications
  • * Short to VPWR in the harness or HO2S
  • * Water in the harness connector
  • * Open VPWR circuit
  • * Open GND circuit
  • * Low battery voltage
  • * Corrosion or incorrect harness connections
  • * Damaged HO2S heater
 

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Yo,
MAF Servicing TSB 96-22-5 by Ford for 94-96ISSUE: The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor is not designed to be removed from its body (die-cast or plastic) for servicing. The sensing elements located inside the by-pass tube can be damaged by poking/probing/touching.ACTION: Service the MAF sensor as an assembly (refer to Figure 1).


Figure 1 - Article 96-22-5WARNING: DO NOT DISASSEMBLE THE MAF SENSOR.OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: NONEWARRANTY STATUS: INFORMATION ONLYOASIS CODES: 203000, 204000, 206000, 607000, 610000, 610500, 611000, 611500, 614000, 614500, 698298
 
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