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I boughts me a reader from Schucks for $39. You can short out the test terminal in the test plug and it should flash the codes on the check engine light. I am not sure exactly which terminal you need to short though..... :shrug
 

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Yes....and check the link from Fireguy. It's perfect! :thumbup
 

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It is the thing in the first pic, where it says eec test. You want to pull the red connector thing off the black cap with the writing.

Hey fireguy, I was reading your website page about pulling the codes(My walmart code reader literally fell apart and I cant find my multimeter) and have a question.

If you are a lost soul that does not have a working engine light, or did not install a light into your dash don’t fret. You can still get the codes. You still need that wire to ground out the STI. Now you will need one of the following tools; digital volt meter, analog volt meter, test light, or you can hook up any other 12 volt light that does not draw more than 0.5 watts max.
question #1
Does the emission light work the same as the check engine light in this case?
question #2
In the quote above is says "did not install a light into your dash". I was looking over the sight and wasn't sure exactly what to connect each side of the light too. Im guessing STO and positive side of the battery?
 

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I believe thats the sensor above the EGR....Try and unplug it and plug it back in....If not your gonna have to change it.

I might be wrong and it might be the little black box next to your coil. Check all your Vacumn hoses first...Good luck

Allcruisen :imp :usa
 

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The EVP is a sensor that tells the ECM what position your EGR is at. Check for reference voltage on the connector from the wire harness. Should be about 5volts. The way to test the sensor is by applying vacuum and checking OHM values. It should change smoothly as you apply vacuum. I am checking my book to see what the value should be. Did you replace your EGR when you built the motor???
 

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You want to check for your reference voltage between VREF and SIG RTN. This is in the first pic. Check this with the key on, engine off. In the second pic you need to check resistance between VREF and EVP. Key off. This value should be slightly less but no more than 5000 ohms. Then check resistance between SIG RTN and EVP. Value should be slightly greater but no lower than 100 ohms. If this is good,,,apply vacuum to the EGR (10") Resistance between VREF and EVP should smoothly change from about 5000ohms to 100ohms. Vacuum should hold.
 

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Mrit said:
question #1
Does the emission light work the same as the check engine light in this case?
Yes, you'll find out quickly, what ever light starts blinking is the one to count ;)

Mrit said:
question #2
In the quote above is says "did not install a light into your dash". I was looking over the sight and wasn't sure exactly what to connect each side of the light too. Im guessing STO and positive side of the battery?
Yep!
STI needs a ground input to activate the test
STO pulses ground to send the codes
so hooking a light to batt + and the STO would complete a circuit and TA DA you got a engine light under the hood :thumbup
 

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Crazed said:
Ryan? :slap
Make sure the EGR is indeed closed first. Take it off the intake and push it open and closed to make sure if moves freely.

Then check the sensor like Meixter siad above
 
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