Bronco Forum - Full Size Ford Bronco Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I have a problem. A couple days ago I drove the bronco (95, 5.0 auto) for over an hour with no issue other than a nagging CE light that's been there for over a year (EGR code). Other than being a little low on power (33's with factory 3.55 gears) the truck ran fine.

On my way home, I ran it through some water/mud but it drove fine. Got home and parked it.

A couple hours later I took it out again, and a couple minutes after leaving home it was bucking as if the engine was shutting off and restarting. I didn't get much further and it stalled out. It would not restart. I also noticed brake fluid sprayed on the firewall and inner fender on the drivers side (I've never seen that happen before). It looks like it came from the cap as there are no obvious leaks on the master cylinder as I move the reservoir around a bit.

Fast forward a couple days and now the truck will start and idle very erratically for maybe a minute or two and then cough and die.

I've checked the fuel pressure (put in a new pump over the winter) and with a couple clicks of the key I get 42psi. Once the truck is running it stays at 42psi.

While I cannot get the truck up to temp or to stay running long enough for the KOER test, I did pull codes for a KOEO: I *think* what I got is a 571 (EGR) and 582 (Fan Circuit Open). Having a clutch fan, the second code throws me.

In addition to the brake fluid issue, another odd thing I noticed was that it looks like there is a sensor on the driver's side intake manifold (coolant temp?) but no matching plug that I can find.

Recent parts (other than the fuel pump and filter) are a new coil, an accel cap and rotor (borrowed from an 88 mustang 5.0)

I'm a newbie with the ford 5.0 motors, so any help is appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Pics would help a LOT. So would a more-thorough & -detailed description of the truck & its history. Click this, read the caption, and follow its instructions:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/72354
The more-precisely you follow those instructions, the more-precise our suggestions can be.
Thanks Steve. I've updated my sig. Never been asked that level of detail on a message board before. I'll post some pics below. As for more detail, I bought the truck about 2 1/2 years ago (always wanted a bronco) and this one was rough. I planned to go through the truck over time, but other things get in the way. I like to try to fix things on my own, hence not towing it to a shop (yet). Over the time I've had it, I've only put maybe 5k miles on it. It's around 117k miles as of now, but as you'll see in the pics it's a dirty truck (yet mostly rust free).

Are you sure it's brake fluid? If there's none on the MC reservoir, and the paint isn't sloughing off the fender, then it's not. Do you run Mercon in the PS system (which is red), or generic PS fluid (which is the same color as brake fluid)? Look at the vent hole on the PS cap; it's aimed at the wheelwell & fender.
To be honest, I suppose it could be power steering fluid. There was fluid all over the MC and the brake booster when it happened, but could have been sprayed there from the PS pump. It has whatever power steering fluid was in there when I bought it. Looks dark but with a red tint (certainly not bright red).


How are you reading codes? You should use a jumper wire:
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/862996
Yes, I'm using a jumper wire.

If you get a code that's not used in these trucks, then either you read the code wrong, or the EEC is failing.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/901696
The codes match up to EEC-IV codes, the only one that confused me was the one about the fan circuit open.

Not sure, but the unplugged connector (if that's what you are referring to) is on the driver's side of the intake behind the distributor.

Why was each of those parts replaced, and when in relation to the appearance of this symptom?
Which parts? The fuel pump was replaced about 6 mos ago. The truck was running rough at the time with an occasional stutter. Replaced it along with the filter essentially on a hunch. The accel cap and rotor were only replaced Sunday in an effort to narrow down cause (and I had them handy). I also have a new EGR valve on there (trying to resolve the prior EGR code which it did not).









 

·
Registered
Joined
·
217 Posts
Why does it look like your top TB coolant hose is connected to the AC condenser near your top rad hose? Mine connects to one of the hoses from the heater core.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Why does it look like your top TB coolant hose is connected to the AC condenser near your top rad hose? Mine connects to one of the hoses from the heater core.
No, it connects to a crossover tube that runs on top of the radiator to the other side then into the fill spout of the radiator.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,700 Posts
you still have a EGR code? This thread has everything you need to know about it.
http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218407

Its likely either a vacuum leak, or a bad position sensor.

Power Steering fluid squirts out the top of those pumps more than most would know. Since I converted over to a saginaw style pump I hanvt noticed any of that.

it also looks like you need the cruise control recall performed. consult your ford dealer before your truck catches on fire.
 

·
imdabes
Joined
·
937 Posts
But my guess would be a big vac leak.

When you start it up will giving it gas keep it running or will it die regardless?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It could be something like that hole drilled through the clutch blockoff plate on the firewall (which might have clipped a wire in the dash harness); or the rusted coffee can vacuum reservoir (which is probably the reason for your EGR codes); or some residual damage from the same collision that necessitated replacing the hood... There's all kinds of information WE might be able to glean from anything you show or tell us. But we can't guess, so the more you tell us about the truck, the better-off you'll be. And the majority of that information needs to stay with each of your posts because you never know when we might need that info to answer your questions.

So finish filling it in... ;)That doesn't mean anything. There are about 400 EEC-IV codes; not all of them apply to these trucks.But you're not gonna post a photo of it? Clean them, and then tell us the WIRE COLORS. You may have to open the split loom a few inches away.Every part you mentioned so far as having been replaced.:twak When you have a hunch, DIAGNOSE the system until you KNOW if any parts require replacement. Then buy only top-quality parts, regardless of how cheap a crappy part might be. Crappy parts are too expensive, even if they're free. Used OE parts (from the JY) are better than most new cheapos. But new MotorCraft parts can be had from eBay, Amazon, RockAuto, TeamFordParts, etc. often for LESS than local craptasmic parts cost.In all that, you still managed to NOT say if they were swapped before or after this symptom appeared. :shrugx2, but unplug the connector from the red switch on the MC now. The truck could catch fire while you're reading this, or in the middle of the night. The key doesn't have to be on, and you don't have to ever use cruise.
http://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/505128
Image of the plug - there is no corresponding connector/wire that I can see in the harness.



So since I was unsure of the codes, I went and bought a scanner. I'm getting 111, 10 and the dreaded 512 now. I found some solid troubleshooting steps for 512 so I will try to resolve that one first.

I'll unplug the cruise connector- thanks for pointing that out. I had no idea about the fire hazard.

As for the rest of the stuff, that's how I bought the truck except the couple parts that I've replaced. I'm not exactly new at working on vehicles, but occasionally I follow a hunch and toss a part at a problem. Most of the time, it works out. This truck needs a fair amount of attention so it will be awhile before I get through it all.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,869 Posts
At one time Steve83 was impurely touched by a code reader, and since then he is on a quest to rid the world of those evil (in his mind) devices.

The code 10 is the signal to perform the WOT test. If you don't do the WOT test, you haven't tested the TPS signal to the PCM, and if equipped, the MAF sensor, the MAP sensor, and Knock Sensor. Your scanner manual should explain that, and if you misstate ANYTHING in your post, Steve83 will nag you to belittle your lack of knowledge. If you don't perform the WOT test, you should have got a 538.

If the 512 recurs, and you haven't disconnected the battery, or pulled the PCM relay, you're probably going to need a new PCM.

As you drove through some mud just before you started experiencing this problem, pull the distributer cap and check for moisture. You might've just got the distributer wet. Check the PCM relay too, or replace it with a relay from a junk Bronco of similar year.

@Steve83, BTW, gun4hire did not say he got a "code 10", he said, "I'm getting 111, 10 and the dreaded 512 now." - he NEVER called any of those CODES.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,869 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
The code 10 is the signal to perform the WOT test. If you don't do the WOT test, you haven't tested the TPS signal to the PCM, and if equipped, the MAF sensor, the MAP sensor, and Knock Sensor. Your scanner manual should explain that, and if you misstate ANYTHING in your post, Steve83 will nag you to belittle your lack of knowledge. If you don't perform the WOT test, you should have got a 538.
This was a KOEO test, so no WOT test should be needed.

As you drove through some mud just before you started experiencing this problem, pull the distributer cap and check for moisture. You might've just got the distributer wet. Check the PCM relay too, or replace it with a relay from a junk Bronco of similar year.
I did. I even pulled the cap/rotor from another 5.0 motor I have (accel unit) along with another coil thinking they may have been wet from the mud, torrential rain or the power steering jizzblast and swapped them on there. Same symptoms. I did not see any troubeshooting steps for the PCM relay in the 512 troubleshooting I found. I'll look into that, thanks.

@Steve83, BTW, gun4hire did not say he got a "code 10", he said, "I'm getting 111, 10 and the dreaded 512 now." - he NEVER called any of those CODES.
For what it's worth, I did not chase the 10 and instead have been troubleshooting the 512. Since I didn't recall even getting the 512 to begin with, I confirmed it by going back and using the jumper wire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
OK, so after troubleshooting the 512 code using the thread here http://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/showthread.php?t=224250 I cleaned up the ECU and plugged it back in. Got the 512 again so I cleared the codes using the 'disconnect jumper while in diagnostic mode' method and the 512 is gone.

However, I am now getting a 211 pointing back to the distributor. (PIP/TFI) Time for more troubleshooting... lol
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
For the record, it turned out to be the distributor. Runs like a champ after the replacement. Next stop will be working to clear up the EGR issues. :)
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top